Anybody ever have a frame break?

Roy814

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USA
My wife has a 1 1/2 year old Lmt”d that we both love. Put a lot of miles on it, on road and gnarly trails. Well this week the frame on the rear brake side dropout broke completely. Don’t know what caused it, but the bike is now shot. Anybody ever have this happen to an aluminum mtb frame, either on an ebike or analog? More important, any suggestions on how to deal with this?
Thanks in advance for any help.
 
Not me personally, but I went down the rabbit hole with this when I was researching a build, because some aluminum eMTB frames do crack-- and sometimes early in their lifecycle, sometimes right after purchase. As it turns out, at least on paper, aluminum frames are weaker than carbon fiber. Supposedly, they can also fail catastrophically as well as cracking, though if you go crazy like I did and run a bunch of searches on the subject, anecdotally and unscientifically, it does seem like CF is more likely to fail catastrophically. The metallurgy side of aluminum frames cracking is very hard to understand, and at the end of the day, people who know way better than me throw up their hands and say no one knows why some alloy frames crack, why one might fail out of a run of thousands.

But yes, sometimes bikes have design flaws-- and I don't know if it's the material or the design-- that will cause some of them to break early, and a reputable company will redesign at that point and replace the frames under warranty, and then do a full-on recall if a lot of them fail.

My only advice would be the obvious things you already thought of-- check online forums (specific to Ride1) and see it it's a common problem, and if it is, you have a better shot at getting them to honor a warranty claim. There's no harm in trying-- it really shouldn't fail that soon-- but if you're off warranty... yeah, not a good situation. So sorry that happened! Hope no one was injured.

I was really surprised to discover that alloy is less robust than I imagined.
 
I had a frame fail. This was in a late '80's steel frame, a Miyata cross bike. It cracked at a hole in the top tube for interior cable routing. Miyata warranitied the frame and I received a new frame, although I had to switch out all the components myself.
 
That’s a rough spot. I might try to find a new frame to fit all the electronics to. The battery might be difficult to install, though.

Maybe it can be welded back? Can you share a picture?
 
Aluminium has practically zero flex without microscopic fractures.
If you are stressing it too much it will eventually fail long before steel, but it won't bend to give you some warning.

Ive had two frame and handlebar failings, a combination of overstressing, cheap parts and overtightening clamps.

proper welding requires full strip down of frame and paint, heating frame for welding or it will be a weak repair
 
I have had a frame fail. It was steel and the result of something dumb I did. It was repairable but I wrote the frame off and used the parts to build up a new bike with a new frame.

If it broke in one spot, where's the next weak spot that hasn't broken yet? How much will a frame weld job cost versus a new frame? To weld/fix the frame you have to take everything off of it and put it all back on again so its not going to be much different in terms of work to replace the frame.

I was doing a motor rebuild on a weekend race car I had, and was smarting from all the mounting costs. We fluxed the crankshaft and saw tiny cracks in it that my mechanic said would be fine on a passenger car. I tried to finagle him to say we could let it go, not buy a new one and golly it should be ok since the cracks are tiny right?

He responded with one short sentence: "I've never seen a crack get smaller."

Chuck the frame and start over.
 
I have had a frame fail. It was steel and the result of something dumb I did. It was repairable but I wrote the frame off and used the parts to build up a new bike with a new frame.

If it broke in one spot, where's the next weak spot that hasn't broken yet? How much will a frame weld job cost versus a new frame? To weld/fix the frame you have to take everything off of it and put it all back on again so its not going to be much different in terms of work to replace the frame.

I was doing a motor rebuild on a weekend race car I had, and was smarting from all the mounting costs. We fluxed the crankshaft and saw tiny cracks in it that my mechanic said would be fine on a passenger car. I tried to finagle him to say we could let it go, not buy a new one and golly it should be ok since the cracks are tiny right?

He responded with one short sentence: "I've never seen a crack get smaller."

Chuck the frame and start over.
This-- and my own rabbit-holing on the subject of bicycle frame cracks-- really has me thinking about driving my 1991 Honda quite so long.

My mechanic is very good. I'm going to have it looked at more closely every two years or so. And it's light duty only from here on out-- almost exclusively highway driving with a little errand running.

And I'm going to inspect my 1973ish Raleigh Competition (531 Reynolds) in New York very carefully. It doesn't get ridden much now, but it saw a lot of action for the first 10 years of its life, and I've hit flagpoles, flipped it on a two-lane highway, and hit cabs so hard I wound up on the trunk. And it does make some odd noises every now and then.
 
And I'm going to inspect my 1973ish Raleigh Competition (531 Reynolds) in New York very carefully. It doesn't get ridden much now, but it saw a lot of action for the first 10 years of its life, and I've hit flagpoles, flipped it on a two-lane highway, and hit cabs so hard I wound up on the trunk. And it does make some odd noises every now and then.
IF I remember right - and I probably don't - as old school tubing goes, Reynolds tended to be on the lighter weight side. A long time ago in a county far far away I used to know what the different numbers meant.

I have a 1984 Vitus 979/Mavic SSC bike that was my first frame-up build and my daily driver for years. I refurb'd it and its ready to go. I think I need to lose about another 35 lbs and I will feel OK about riding on 28C tires again.... which are still way upsized from the 20C's I rode on when I was a 135 lb rider.

Back on topic: I looked up the Ride1Up Lmt'd and jeez... this is like a $1700 bike. I understand how you can love an object and want to keep it around, but thats a low-ish end bike that is definitely not something you should go out of your way to risk jiggering back to life. Try for a warranty replacement, or just buy another one and now you have spare parts and a second battery. Or maybe the manufacturer will sell you another frame. Hard to replace it with something else given that in-frame battery.
 
Here is the broken frame. It is on the brake side of the chainstay, broken all through and all round the chainstay tube.
 

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That is a big stress point. Many bikes have a brace there for this reason. The brake will push that part up and the heavy rear motor will push the chainstay down. Fatigue.
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We have loved the bike and ridden all over North America. On my recommendation a number of friends have also bought Ride1Up Lmt’ds. Their response to this problem makes me happy to buy from them again!
 
That is great @Roy814.
I saw this bike today on my former employer's site. The bare wheelset is $2200. When in the wine business I learned that my customers' wallets and tastes are not the same as mine. Some are buying $3 bottles and some want several $1500 cases of 12 to lay in their caves for seven years. It is similar to bikes. A matter of taste. Once I sold some $1500 cases to a big game hunter in Anchorage, shipping from Napa. FedEx flew it to Atlanta and let them sit on the 140 degree tarmac instead of just flying them up to Seattle and Anchorage. All the corks popped.
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Yep we have 2 Rize City bikes
Rize Canda says no fix need new frame
2 yrs old and we have $2500 worth of nothing
The bike has 800 km
NEVER BUY THIS BRAND
 

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