[#10] X52.. My 2021 X52 has major rear hub motor “grindage” at mile 16,383.

[Sic Puppy]

My 2021 X52 has major rear hub motor “grindage” at mile 16,383..
Here are the spec's for the 2021 model year (the 1st generation)ArielRider X52 rear hub motor:
Instead of nylon gears that are used in the rear hub motors of BaFang 750w or 1000w BLADE(model name) motors, ArielRider, back in 2021, made a very BIG DEAL about the unique metal-geared motor set-up during their advertising campaign. Of course, in 2022, they switched over to the (still currently in use) 1,000watt (peak output of 2,000watts) BAFANG BLADE nylon gear motor.
In regard to their “fabulous” metal gear motor, AR advertising never did even state the brand name. However, after some research I believe it to be the 1,000w/2,000w Peak Output Hengtai Geared Hub Motor. I have only been able to locate one other USA-based ebike company that uses this type/brand of motor so I cannot be 100%absolutely positive it is a Hengtai Geared Hub Motor. But, how many metal geared versions can there be out in ebike world?

In addition to my 2021 AR X52 ebeast, with its' 16,383miles, I also own these two magnificent rascals:

1. 2018(year) M2S(brand) KUSH (model-- now called 750FS). This dual-suspension fat tire ebike has the famous BaFang 750watt/1,200w peak rear hub. This ebike has 22,000 miles of absolutely PROBLEM-FREE motor issues. It still runs like a scalded doggie.
2. 2019(year) M2S(brand) R750(model). This ebike is a carbon copy of the aforementioned M2S ebike with the exception of it being a front suspension-only version. It currently has 15,250 miles of absolutely PROBLEM-FREE motor issues. It, too, still runs like a scalded doggie.
3. Well, I have always wondered just how many miles these rear hub motors would last until the motor started to go into “stupid” mode. Now, at least for one brand (ArielRider), and its friggin' metal gear motor, I know: 16,383.
4. I headed out for a ride on the AR X52 this morning and was greeted by a very disconcerting groveling noise in my rear wheel area. At first I thought that maybe a stick, or a piece of wire, etc. had become entangled in the cassette gear. No such luck. Luckily, I was near a large vacant parking lot so I embarked on a mission of “what the#$%^&”. It's readily apparent that this motor was having issues. Before I continue, I need to convey to you, the reader, that I am a 72 year old “cruiser” who loves to pedal. My mission on my daily 50 mile ebike rides is Maximum miles/Minimum turbo assist. If I ever exceed 28mph, it is seldom for more than 30 seconds total, and then it will most likely be a downhill section. Putt-Putt PizzaHut, that's me.

ShitFire..So, noise-wise, here we go.
It is readily apparent that this motor was/is having issues. Sadly, the rocks-in-a-can noise only broadcast itself when I was actually pedaling. If I just coasted along, the noise, while still there, was hardly noticeable. But, if I pressed the thumb throttle or pedaled, I was greeted by a vicious (and very metallic) grinding-type noise. So, back to the condo.
First thing I did was get on the internet and check out some of the local ebike shops. Hopefully, one of them would handle any repairs needing to be done. Many ebike shops will only work on bikes that they sell, so, since my purchase was factory-direct via the internet, I'd have to deal with that possibility. Thankfully, I did find one shop. However, they could NOT guarantee product compatibility. My bastard child metal gear was sure to be a no-go. Plus, their fee for working on electrical/motor issues was $150 per hour, with a one-hour minimum. Plus, parts are extra.

[Copy&Paste from ebike shop website:]
While we will do our best to service bikes purchased elsewhere, we may not be able to accommodate non-eBikes USA bicycles.

Electronics Diagnostics​

$150.00/hr​

Includes:

• Inspect and test Motor, Controller, Display and Throttle
• Inspect and test wiring harness
• Battery Capacity Test
• Battery Load Test
• Battery Voltage Output Test
• Electrical System Voltage flow Triage
  *minimum 1 Hour

[end of copy&paste info]

ShitFire. It looks like Sic Puppy is going to delve into the world of tear down/build back up motor overhaul.

I have never had to deal with getting into the internals of a rear hub motor. Luckily, YouTube has numerous videos that can/will assist me. Hopefully, applying copious amounts of waterproof axle grease will be the remedy for said rocks/gravel noise. If that doesn't solve the issue then I am in for a real pickle of a situation.

There is no way in hell that I'll use another off-brand metal gear motor unit. That means going to the BaFang 1000w nylon gear. Assuming, of course that it will even be able to be accommodated by the current outer housing shell. That means a cost of $150 to $200. And then, even if it does work, I will need to buy a new controller module box AND a new computer display unit (that's the display on your handlebar) Jack Cecil(the company) sells the coupled pair for around $500.00.. Ouch!! Not gonna happen.
I'm in no big hurry to commence this ordeal, however, once its been handled, I will add an UPDATE to this thread title.

 

[mfgrep]

Are you handy? Surely you will find like-minded people that own similar brand and model bike that have had this problem before you. I would think it very likely that you might be able to figure out what is wrong and how to fix it. At a minimum I would think you could find and purchase a new motor out gear and replace it. I would also think, that with a noise like you describe, do not ride it until you have resolved the issue. You are likely to make things worse. Man, you have a lot of miles on those bikes. I would say that 16,000 problem free miles is pretty good.

Good luck to you and I hope you get it fixed. At least you have two other steeds that you may ride in the meantime

 

[Sic Puppy]

Congrat's you are a Rider - frankly the "sandwich metal/nylon gears" werelater patented by motor maker Hengtai - so everybody not Hegtai has to go back to all-Brasss - or all-Nylon gear sets (nylon is quieter) Ariel uses moto maker Bafang now - your motor in essence is the Bafang RM g062.1000. If you are up to it - just a bit of work and you will be fine. The "work" basically - removing the Rear Wheel - and replacing the motor Panetary-Gear-Set - then zipping it back up. 1. Order in this Replacement Gear Set w/Plate : https://electrobikeworld.com/products/planetary-gears-for-bafang-motors Once that comes in - walk you thru Rear-Wheel Removal - Gear Replacement - Zip Up - it has all been done before : https://electricallwheel.com/ebike-motor-gear-replacement-bafang-g360/

Hi all, (sorry about the bold type)​

Thanks for your excellent input regarding my situation. I was cruising the YouTube channel and will use the following 3 video's for guidance:​

YouTube#1 X52 step-thru:

YouTube#2magnets loose:

YouTube#3:X52 info:

I'm sure there are many more YT's to choose from but, for now, these 3 will do for now.

I'm also going to send ArielRider an email inquiring as to their input/suggestions, etc. on my grindage. I fully expect to receive the following info back from them:
The name of the motor brand/manufacturer.
The model #/info for the motor.
Where to purchase the triple gear assembly.
How much for a complete replacement rear wheel unit (in blue, of course--yeah, like that's gonna happen).

However, having dealt with ArielRider, the company, in the distant past, I have no illusions that I'm dealing with NASA Rocket Scientists. But, maybe they'll fool me this time around. I just don't want to dis-assemble the motor unit and then have it setting around as I scan the globe for the correct items.
Time will tell..