2017 GB1 Controller LSW905-27-1 Error Code 9

[Topaz]

Hello forumers, I have a Green Bike GB1 bike bought in 2017. The display is giving an error code 9 and the motor doesn't get power. The battery is charged.
I'm trying to find information to service it like wiring diagram, error codes list and anything else that could help.

The controller is a LSW905-27-1.

Thanks for any help.

 

[PCeBiker]

I couldn't find any information about that ebike or error code.

A KT controller and display should fix your ebike by replacing the "guts" if you can't find out what the error code means, and how to fix it.

Perhaps your ebike figured out that it is white instead of green like it's supposed to be? That could toss a code.

There are a few of us here on the forum that can help you get a KT controller/display installed if that's what it takes.

Starting with testing the motor to make sure it isn't all burned up using a motor tester.

 

[harryS]

Error codes are specific to the display. Look at your display model and google for a manual on it. Being that your control starts with LSW... that is probably a Lishui controller/display. Then you can see what Error 9 means. I see no display on your handlebars though, It must have one to flash an error code.

It must not be a popular display because googling Error 09 gets no hits.

New controller and display should be under a hundred bucks for a KT unit. Less if you get a Brain Power controller with their S866 display but their pedal assist stinks.

 

[Topaz]

Thank you very much, guys!

The display says C500B-LCD, for which I found a manual in manuals.lib with the following error codes table:
0 Normal
1 Current error or MOS damaged
2 Throttle error(Start detection)
3 motor no phase position
4 Hall error
5 Brake error(Start detection)
6 Under voltage
7 Motor stalling
8 communication controller receiving error
9 communication display receiving error

My error is 9. Should the error be 8 if the problem were in the controller?
I will order the eBike Tester suggested above or similar.

 

[Topaz]

Perhaps your ebike figured out that it is white instead of green like it's supposed to be? That could toss a code.

LOL. A can of green paint should do it!

 

[harryS]

Yeah, I think error 9 implies a bad controller, The display isn't hearing any messages from it,

I have been buying KT controllers all this time (8 years, many controllers) and I just realized that they don't have an error code for the above comm errors. In fact, the list is pretty spares. Some of the displays only have two errors on their list,

 

[Topaz]

UPDATE. I bought the tester and the connectors are different from the ones in the bike, so I took the terminals out of the connectors. I did the test on the controller and the it looks like the controller is bad. The first test gives me no 5V getting to the connector and no lights pattern when the throttle is applied.
I opened the controller and it didn't look like water came inside. And the covers had a nice insulation gasket on both ends. Is it common for these controllers to burn out just with time? The bike is from 2017, however, I didn't really used it much. The display shows 1000miles.

For the motor, I could do the windings connectivity test and it was good.
Now I'm trying to do the phase sensors test but I can't get the terminals out of the connector. that comes from the motor, and unfortunately I already managed to cut one of the six wires, so I may have to get a new cable anyways.
Does anyone know this connector and where to find a diagram or instructions to pull out the terminals?

Thanks!

 

[harryS]

1x6 JST connector. Terminals go in one time, and a tiny barb on them prevents any future removal. Often used on commercial ebikes. Third party replacement controllers use a 2x3 rectangular connector or use the 9 pin molded plug,

Don't try to pull it apart, Motors only burn out windings if you melted them and the phase wires would have melted before the windings anyway, Keep it intact, When you buy a new controller, you will probably have to transfer the old six pin connector to it and mate it to your motor cable. The alternative is to switch the motor cable to the controller's plug,

If you really want to verify the motor's Hall sensors, get some jumper connectors to slip over the pins in the motor connector. WIre them to your tester.

 

[Topaz]

thank you very much! I'm learning as I go. I already pulled too much on that 1x6 connector and cut the thin wires, so I will need a new connector there anyways.
The motor tested well, so it looks like I only have to replace the controller.
Support from Green Bike USA so far has been null, so I'm looking at KT controllers.
My new controller should be tiny, as there is no much space in the controller compartment.
My bike has PAS, brake cuts and throttle. I didn't see any speed sensor on my bike, although the display does show the speed, so it should be somewhere.
My battery and controller are 48V. I think the motor is 350W or 500W. Not sure.

Thanks for your help again!

 

[harryS]

The speed sensor must be inside the motor if there's no magnets on the spokes. The connectivity is via the white wire on the above six pin connector. Hook it up in place of a hall sensor and it will pulse the tester when you spin the wheel.

 

[PCeBiker]

^^^ What he said.

You can count the pulses for a full wheel rotation to find out how many speed magnets are in the motor.

Usually 6 I think, sometimes just 1.
More magnets show your speed more accurately.

 

[PCeBiker]

,.. My bike has PAS, brake cuts and throttle.

A KT controller/display will almost certainly work for you.
You can adjust/set it to accept any PAS sensor, throttle or brake switch.
(PAS sensors can rotate clockwise or counterclockwise and have different numbers of magnets)

 

[PCeBiker]

,.. My new controller should be tiny, as there is no much space in the controller compartment.

KT controllers come in several standard sizes/wattages.

This is the smallest one at 15 amps,..