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What you are describing is not the property of the bike but physics. It takes MUCH more energy to go from 25-30mph than it does to go from 10-15mph. If you want to go faster you need to become more aerodynamic.

There is a case for 48V even at low speeds. With higher voltages you can use less amps to reach the same desired power level. Less amps are desirable because it involves less heat and therefore can have higher efficiency. Higher voltages can also allow a battery to contain more energy (watt...

Manufacturer posted ranges are mostly bunk, just like most battery life claims. Take the number of watt hours in the battery and divide it by your typical usage. Light motor usage, flat ground, low winds, human power is about 10 - 20 Wh/mi. Heavy motor usage, headwinds, throttle will be 20 - 30...

3. Bike frame/geometry/fit 1. Motor (power/type/placement) 4. price 5. Visual appeal..color, shape 8. After purchase needs (cheap battery, easy to find servicing for that brand..) 7. Speed of delivery (It's my wife's birthday today and I need a gift today!). 2. Console ease of use 6. The shop...

In that case I think you should try a small 47cm first. Even a medium may be too big.

Stand over height for bicycle fitting is complete crap. Most important measurement is top tube but you should be looking at reach and other factors. Your seat height given a set wheel and crank size will always be the same (assuming similar seatpost angle which most bicycles have). Next you...

I highly recommend Arkel bags http://www.arkel-od.com/ I have a number of their bags including the GT-18 backpack pannier combo, tailrider trunk bag with randonneur seat post rack for extra space, and the shopper urban pannier. As you can see I use my bike for commuting, running errands...