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Well, as other have suggested, upgrading to the SRAM GX derailleur and GX shifter made a big difference. So far I have a couple hundred miles on the new setup. Shifts up and down are crisp and well defined, the drivetrain responds predictably to adjustments, and there's much less force required...

Unfortunately, the max speed is ultimately limited by the motor and battery voltage. I completely (and temporaily) replaced the controller on my Moscow Plus with a FSESC 4.12 50A controller based on the VESC programming format. Max speed was about 25 MPH. If this is all the speed boost you're...

Agree. Mine is up and running and performing well. Minimal leakage current when the switch is off.

I tried several methods involving pressing and holding the battery power button, charging through the discharge port, disconnecting the BMS leads and charging... Nothing worked. This Biktrix video gave me some hope but didn't work in the end.

The new BMS arrived ahead of schedule so I wired it up and jammed it in. And I mean jammed. It's uncomfortably tight but I think it will be OK. The battery charge level indicator lights work but I've pretty much given up on getting the USB port back in action. I'm still waiting for my latching...

I'll bet there's a simple PCB mod to get the switch working on your no-switch bms. They're likely the same board.

Yeah there weren't a lot of options for a 13S BMS > 30A with disable feature and balancing. At least they posted lots of specs on the BMS and look pretty legit. Let us know how it works out. And this should just barely fit into the Reention battery case.

I'll keep you posted. This is the BMS I ordered - unfortunately I had to resort to AliExpress so it won't be here until February.

In what appears to be a somewhat common occurrence, I went for a ride in a light California drizzle and hit a few puddles but nothing extreme. When I returned I put the battery on the charger and saw it was charging normally. When I returned a few hours later the charger showed green but I could...

It does run at full 48V and is on anytime the battery is on. If you run an LED headlight you shouldn't need to run anything over 20 watts to get a super bright light. Running 50 watts, about 1 amp, shouldn't be an issue. I'm running a 15W CREE LED light and it's plenty bright, even for daytime...

After a dozen emails, messages, and voice mails I finally received my refund for my 2 month delayed hydra black. Their new guy Greg is responsive and does suggest they are working on improving communication and customer relations.

I like the decal treatment - what was that?

I've got a few more cycles on my Z1 battery and I'm keeping an eye on range. Today I got about 24 miles range on mainly flat terrain with some moderate hills, mainly in PAS 1 & 2. My display was at 9%/46.5V when I returned, about 3.6V cell. Whether this is near fully depleted depends a lot on...

That's a pretty low voltage but you probably have a few low cells that triggered the BMS. Most BMS' monitor individual cell voltages. After a couple charge cycles your cells should better equalize. Also, voltage droop when your pulling a lot of current may also trigger the BMS shutdown. Next...

I fixed the link above...

My only complaint so far is the clamp is pretty wide, adding a bout 3/4" to the seat post and I occasionally brush it with my thigh. And even though I have about 5" clearance on my rear tire, It scrubbed the rack a couple times on big bumps. Topeak QR MTX

Yeah, I've seen those swingarm mounted racks but I didn't want to add that much unsprung weight, especially for all the off-roading I do. Not to mention the abuse everything in my pack will experience, including aux batteries at times. I can actually see the nut with the wires threaded through...

So far I'm pretty impressed with the rack. I was worried about slamming a metal clamp on my alloy seatpost tube, but there are rubber inserts that attach securely to the inside of the clamp so they won't scratch the painted tube. I think I've got plenty of rear tire clearance. I'll have to see...

Both of my rims were true within about 1 mm, but they were very loose. I've used the screwdriver thump and listen method but now prefer the fingernail strum technique for my "precision" spoke adjustments. If you've ever taken your bike to a good bike shop for wheel truing you'll be amazed at how...

The pricing swings on this bike were also interesting. I ordered mine on 11/28 and picked it up on 12/1. I paid $4200 and 3 days later it was $4800. Now it's back to $4500 but they appear out of stock on the medium frame. Still a good value but Luna appears to be watching the market closely.