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I was looking at these for a conversion vid. (I was going to ask them to provide one!). My concern was having the controller, which needs to stay cool/lose heat when under strain, like on steep climbs, in the same housing as the motor, which also gets hot, under strain. How are you finding that...

And thanks for the link, Jeremy.

Crazy stuff. I’ll ask TQ now, though if the motor can’t disengage, it wouldn’t be long term damage, it would be immediate, and 90km/h would bugger it for certain. Instead, the cut-off in and out of assist was perfect - impossible to detect. The press blurb for the HPR 40 makes a big thing of...

I have the bike direct from Canyon for two months to review. I expect to cover 2000kms or more. The motor is designed to be ridden at speeds well above the cut-off for long periods, as are all e-road motors. Where did this strange rumour come from? Apologies for not reading through the whole...

Wow! Just reading through some previous comments, this is very weird. The motor, on the 1 ride I’ve had with it, is superb. I always test bikes with the assist off to start - to me, it gives an impression of the bike itself, if you see what I mean? The canyon takes off like a non-assist bike...

Hello….erm, the question is whether the HPR40 can be ridden with the motor off????? I rode the Canyon this morning. I turned the motor on at around 5km….am I missing something? Thanks for your support Rás!

No, I have an Orbea Gain, but didn’t want to spend €600 on a small battery charger/range extender battery so I made my own, which sits in a seat post bag, leaving my two bottle cages free for the drinks I need on my now-longer rides! Have a look on Yako Rides aGain channel on YouTube if you...

Let us know if it works. We have an Orbea guy in our club who used to teach bike shops maintenance on the Gain when it was introduced (same X35 system). He says almost all motor cut out issues, when there is no error code on the Mahle MySmarBike app, will be PAS sensor related.

That is the big failing of the X35 - it is designed to give it’s maximum power at higher speeds; Mahle say between 15-25kmh. For me, I’d say it’s definitely at the higher end of that scale, just when you don’t need it! For slow speed (heavier rider/steeper hills) something with more torque is...

Take a look at the PAS sensor in the rear right chainstay right up close to the derailleur hanger. The side facing the ring of magnets in the cassette lock nut should be 3mm from those magnets. If it’s not, there is a little grubscrew in the frame/chainstay , hidden underneath (it faces down)...

Agree. You’d do better selling your D20 and buying an M series Gain. I doubt a Chinese carbon frame would be much lighter than your aluminium one. In truth, there is not a lot of weight saving to be had unless you buy top of the range stuff - carbon wheels, bars, race tyres etc - and any weight...

well, you can buy the individual Mahle components from Orbea, but you will run into a problem with the range extender. It’s not a simple battery, but a battery charger, that trickle charges the main battery so it can’t be used alone. Also, the system controller is built into the main battery...

One and the same Mick - does that mean you are a subscriber? Lol I’ve spoken to an Orbea guy about this fault - and it’s almost always the PAS sensor. I wonder if it’s a lack of training/distribution of info? The first thing they should check is that the PAS sensor hasn’t been shoved away from...

Did you get this sorted Mick? If not, it was most likely the PAS sensor, in the rear chainstay. It may need to be moved closer to the magnets. There is a grubscrew right underneath the stay, undo it, and push/tap the plastic nub that you can see on the side of the chainstay facing out. The face...

I made a range extender for my Orbea Gain for €120, just a few parts and a little soldering. You can make them for a lot less, but I don’t trust no-name cells etc. An electrical appliance shop could make it for you for very little if you buy the parts. It’s been working faultlessly for 12months...

I’m really sorry, but the ‘drag’ you are experiencing isn’t drag. At least, not much of it. It is, sadly, a widely reported sensation that occurs when the assist goes off with ebikes. With the X35, particularly in level 3, and at 25.2 ish km/h, this cut off is instant, and you feel you have hit...

I‘m afraid your experience ties in with many others on this and other forums. Some are happy with getting an extra 2kmh or so, others are not. The companies generally only claim 2-3kmh though…They also reduce or remove the on-off surging sensation at 25kmh in level 3 from what I’ve read.

You could cut the connector off your external battery and then from your battery charger and splice the longer cord from the charger onto your battery and put the short one on your charger.

Oh, you don’t have to watch all the guff, jump to the schematic at the end for what you need and how to make it.

I made my own range extender. It works, and I’m glad I didn’t pay over the odds for a low capacity battery charger that Ebikemotion sell for crazy money. I made a how-to vid, this is it, no fee. Suitable batteries are on AliExpress from 22bucks. Don’t get ripped off. After I made the vid I had...