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Never heard about lithium batteries "memory", it's something that affect nickel batteries. The usual storage voltage ( less deterioration ) is just over the nominal voltage, in your case approx. 49v but voltage is not a true measure of capacity. I personally rarely go under 46v ( at rest) but...

Twist throttle have the same displacement of thumb throttle, precision should not be better. Can you reprogram the motor ? If you want a better slow bike at the cost of reducing top speed, you can replace the chainring by a smaller one.

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I don't think so, with the help of Youtube they are doing very well.

Inexpensive Ebikes are made of 90% bike parts and 10% cheap easily replaceable parts made in China. IMO the future of Ebikes is really bright, especially for China ;-)

Load voltage vs open cells voltage... http://support.rollsbattery.com/en/support/solutions/articles/10372-voltage-readings-state-of-charge

From the PAS I tried, there is a lot of room for improvement. So much the better if you can build a better PAS.

Be very careful while doing this, prepare yourself to get a full throttle response. May be you need to reverse wires.

The height of small talk !

It's exactly what happen when we increase the voltage, motor is running faster. The speed gain you had was proportional to your voltage increase. You certainly also exceeded the maximum 350W by a huge margin. You motor was not designed for that effort.

I think you have your explanation, your motor was running way too fast and it burned.

The top throttle speed for my bike with a 48 volt motor and battery is 35km. Did you use the 36 volt motor with a 48 v battery ??

I have 3 different E-bikes with 3 different saddles all padded. For long or bumpy rides nothing beat a pair of padded underwear. On my retro E-bikes I wear them under my relax fit jeans.

Take a look at the Sondors LX, a tall sturdy very powerful bike.

Li-po batteries are very efficient in discharge, they will certainly won't heat, puff nor explode with a typical commercial E-bike discharge rate of 0.5C to 3C . The best one can be discharge 10 to 20 times faster without any danger, which is not necessary for a commercial E-bike, who need the...

At a low discharge rate of 0.5C, the temperature is constant. It's probably what my wife and I do most of the time on a 2 hours ride, draining the battery to approx. 3.8v per cell. As an example one of my bike a MTB has a 17.5 Ah battery and my controller is limited to 25A, the maximum...

Good infos: https://batteryuniversity.com/article/bu-410-charging-at-high-and-low-temperatures https://batteryuniversity.com/article/bu-809-how-to-maximize-runtime https://batteryuniversity.com/article/bu-502-discharging-at-high-and-low-temperatures https://batteryuniversity.com/articles

Speed limits are necessary and relatively easy to enforce. Give me the permission to built a 60 mph E-bike with the actual legislation (permit, insurance) I will do it, and I won't be alone ! The line between E-bike, E-moped and E-motorcycle must be clear and speed limits is the easiest way...

I consider it's a privilege to ride a bike with electric assistance, no insurance, no permit, light helmet on cycle paths or on roads paid by all the taxpayers. Restrictions ? that goes without saying.

Don't do that it's not a good idea. A front hub motor is a good choice only on paved road. The weight of a front hub on the trail, bumps and hills will be disturbing and traction will be very limited. A hub motor has a fixed gearing. Buy a mid motor to make your motor benefit of your rear...