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Right, I should have googled your bike, having now done so Its outside my scope of reference, Im okish with hub drives and common/generic control systems, But I cant afford to look at your bike, V nice btw;) some mid motor enthusiasts can be found over on https://www.pedelecs.co.uk/ if no...

the throttle is probably fine, the walk mode, throttle upto 6km/h 4m/h is a EU/UK limit so is commonly configured for export to that market, you may find the throttle will work beyond this limit when also pedaling as that is within the eu regs and a feature available with some, not all...

Im fairly new to ebikes specifically myself everyone was at sometime.. Like yourself it seems im the chap stuff gets dropped off with when it stops working.. just in case.. REMOVE THE BATTERY before opening anything up and poking wires, and take this basic precaution EVERY time you work on...

Google for ebike controller pinout have you got your controller manual? Photograph your headset, controller labels and leads and any sensors you can identify like the pas or cadence sensor to help us guide you. i would do something like 1) eliminate battery problems - done, 2) confirm...

After a quick google I understand your desire not to waste the investment into the display. I would ask the seller of the P860c Display for a list of compatible controllers that meet your requirements 36/48v 22a julet connections, ?lights, etc... Most genuine sellers are keen to engage with...

You might be looking at replacing both the controller and headset/display, Many systems require pairing or programming to establish communication between the two boxes hampering efforts to replace only the broken aspect. If you can take photographs of your current controller and headset any...

ebay link this product appears to piggy back off the brake sensors to operate a brake light.. I dont know for sure, i know the light circuit cant cope with to much draw, what that limit is I dont know its Discussed here. which seems to indicate 70ma-100ma?? which he 250ma draw of the 9w...

KT lcd8h manual Sinewave is more sophisticated and should? provide a smoother ride, square wave may be slightly rougher noisier? and a little cheaper since its less complex. Is what ive read, I have had limited experience of 2 x controller upgrades both sinewave.. So with no experience with...

I missed the 'with horn' aspect of the 5 pin throttle description.. even so it makes the 5 in 1 cable you have non standard in at least one way, so .. I would at least source a 'spare' standard 5 to 1 from a supplier with a no quible returns policy. (5t1 for a controller with light support, 4T1...

LINKY Or But its still a gamble if your new headset is configured to talk to your controller. perhaps the qr code can shed some light on what is ment by the Display meter value on the label? KT controllers as mentioned above are popular not only because they do not require pairing or...

commiserations, hope you get the bike you want eventually..

Paid for by everyone, but hey my bad, I have a local forum open on the next tab, posted to what I thought was a local crowd. lets agree to differ perhaps and get back to bike fun, flame me in a pm if freedom demands it..

Ive got bike insurance healthcare is free

Thanks @harryS, I have downloaded a 25 page pdf detailing the P and C parameters.. Yikes this will take a few read through repetitions, so far its not making much sense at all.... I started searching for the KT notes you posted in the spring before realising you meant your notes from putting a...

Thank you, Im pretty sure my lcd3 manual page is lacking the info above.. and the julet pinout is very useful, thanks again.

I have been given an 'old' (according to the hub motor 16 months old) taoci 02 amazon special ebike. I have been slowly working on this bike and this weekend last the delivery from china arrived with a new kt 17a(peak) 8a controller lcd3 headset, julet leads, brake levers with integral sensors...

I'm not familiar with your bike so can only speak generally. But an ebike is 3 basic components, the motor, its battery, and its controller +i/o(display-buttons-sensors) on a bike. So as always starting with the battery, crack its case and confirm all connections are solid. sounds like you...

that suggests a loose connection or dry solder joint, give all the plugs/sockets and cables a once over, if it persists try to isolate the issue remove the controller from the bike and emulate bumps and knocks to it and if it cuts out.. the problem is with the controller or its connections.. if...

Replace the hinge pin of a folding trike with a removable split pin voila..

The smaller wheels in the larger frame may feel/look a bit off, Nothing else should give you problems, disk brakes means no issues with a different wheel size like you would have with v or other rim brakes, If you can prepare well and be methodical its only a few hours work to swap over so if...