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I agree that a bike computer would be the better tool for most cases. It is easier for me to glance at the big phone display though, and not just for the Varia app. And having the data is nice but I use the bike for 75% commuting at this point. I use an Apple watch for Strava + heart rate and it...

Dude. Have fun! You’re not too far from me. Can I get a test ride? 😆😁

That’s a beast. Is this your first eScooter? I’ve owned a few low-powered scooters and currently own a NineBot Max and a TurboAnt X7 Pro. I do have the desire to step up to a more powerful dual-motor scooter mostly because of all the hills on my commute. I keep looking at the Apollo Ghost but...

This is normal for a cadence sensor’d bike, yes. Not all controllers are programmed the same but this is basically what you get from a cadence sensor PAS. Generally speaking, you can think of a cadence sensor as an on/off switch that goes to the preset speed or wattage and a torque sensor is...

I’m praying for you friend.

You may want to try some wider tubeless tires for extra cushion. The fork can probably take a 45mm wide tire and if you run it tubeless, you can run a lower pressure to make it even more comfy.

I’m not that well versed in Bosch but I think that has the lower torque figure of 40Nm. Might be okay if your hills aren’t too steep or long.

That’s a pretty bike! I also really like the Canyon Grail :ON

I also think the REI bikes are an excellent value. I would have recommended those first but I know OP didn't want suspension.

I have a Yamaha Urban Rush. Same motor as the one in the Cross Core. It has all the torque I need. I'm pretty confident I can pull my kids in the Burley up any hill in San Francisco with it.

Short answer: No. Rear hub drive bikes can be very fast on flat land. On steep and sustained hills, they will go into thermal protection mode and limit or cut power entirely. It's still a good idea to test a bunch of bikes before you buy if you're able. My first bike which I bought online...

It’ll likely take a 45mm wide tire. That would be really plush for mixed riding.

You’re going to want a middrive for those hills. And there aren’t that many at or below that price point. One that immediately comes to mind as a great value and is relatively light weight is the Yamaha Cross Core but even that retails for $2399 US.

It doesn’t. It’s pretty specific to the motor and display combination. Even then, there may be a specific tuner for just that year and model. I made an entire thread on it in the Yamaha section when I was on a search for it.

That’s the bike that I originally wanted. I don’t know of a working tuning box that will derestrict it though so you may be stuck with Class 1 speeds until one gets developed.

I actually like my Urban Rush (in it’s current state) more than the Civante. But if I went into the store and they were both full price, it’s a no-brainer to choose the Class 3 Civante for only $100 more. The Speedbox install is pretty easy but it takes about an hour to do it right. There’s a...

This is the Urban Rush. It's almost the same as the Civante except that it's sold as a Class 1 machine and comes in a different paint color. I got it for a deep discount but at list price, it's only $100 less than the Civante. So yeah, if I didn't get it at closeout, I'd opt to spend $100...

I think I'm the sole responder on that thread. 😛 I don't have a gravel bike but I have a gravel-ish bike. 38mm Gravelking tires, Ritchey Venturemax shallow drops, and Speedbox to make it Class 3+.

Wow. I feel the exact opposite. I think it's one of the best purchases I've ever made as a bike commuter. Yes, the programming is skewed to be a bit sensitive. I'd rather have false positives than false negatives. It's an amazing product in my experience.

That's funny. I thought of the Animaris seat post right when I read your title. I'm pretty sure it works fine for most people but it did not work for my weight range at all. It almost gives zero compliance even at the softest setting. Yes, I'm aware that I can buy softer springs for it but...