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I hope you don't think that carbon fiber under compression is somehow less "stiff" than aluminum. Neither compresses or bends at all under any force you could exert.

A sprung seatpost is recommended...

One tip as to handlebar height: you can remove and invert the "horizontal" part of the gooseneck to get about 1/2" higher position of the handlebars.

After dropping the chain for the dozenth time when I hit a pothole, I got annoyed and took it back to the dealer to see if he had a fix. I had heard that there was a piece added to the 2015 models that keeps the chain on the chainring, and was quite pleased to discover that there are bolt-holes...

From decades of experience, if you are on the fence when choosing size, I'd suggest buying the smaller, for the simple reason that you can always add a taller stem or expose more seatpost to make the bike fit "larger", but you can't make it any smaller no matter what you do... As one example, I...

Just for curiosity, when it comes off, it goes to the inside of the chainring? At least that's where mine winds up when it happens. (Only three times in 400 miles, so far)

Take a link out of the chain, to tighten the tension on the rear derailleur?

To change riding position to anything you like, just swap out the handlebars and/or stem. Any bike shop could do this for a nominal cost. I put an adjustable stem on mine.

I went the other direction. After noticing that the allen-head set-screws on the OEM pedals are extremely hostile to the soles of shoes, and not wanting to have to wear bike shoes for normal life, I replaced the alu pedals with a set of plastic Specialized flat pedals.

You will be averaging a considerably higher speed and carrying more weight than you would on a pedal-only bike. The bike will be about twice the weight of a pedal-bike - an extra 25 lbs. or so. Thus, look for a very sturdy frame and headset, better-than-the-average-bicycle brakes, and strong...

OTOH, with the 2-year warrantee, you can be sure that the issue would be fixed by Specialized. I don't think you will find posts by anyone whose Turbo wasn't fixed after reporting such a problem, which usually seems to be addressed by replacing the joystick controller.

Two fails is two too many. I don't blame you for passing on the Turbo, just saying that your experience was not typical.

99% of Turbo riders have never experienced a power loss such as you describe. Overheating seems unlikely - I sometimes ride up a 700 ft. hill using the throttle mode, and the motor gets warm, but not hot. The one part implicated in the rare issues like this is the thumb-controller, which was...

If your bikes are the gen2 2013 Turbo with the joystick integrated into the brake lever, it sounds like the joystick control has gone bad and needs replacement. On mine, the bike would occasionally drop into Regen while climbing steep hills, and only then. The joystick also felt loose and...

I have an Alation 500, which I like and use for running errands all over Portland, OR. The extra power is greatly appreciated for hill-climbing (I'm 70), but be aware that it acts more like a moped than a bicycle - you will use the twist-grip "throttle" more than you expect. The issue is that it...

On the high-end Turbo, the brakes do activate Regen every time you use them. However, it would be nice if, when in Regen Mode, the brakes would increase the rate of generation, as there are times when one could get more charge and more slowing on steep hills.

On my 2014, the bars were def. too wide, so I cut 1/2" off each end with a tubing cutter.

There is a full-page list of recommended tires supplied by Specialized with the owner's manual, IIRC.

A Thudbuster ST makes the ride a real pleasure - see the thread on the topic: http://electricbikereview.com/community/threads/thudbuster-st-on-turbo.388/

That may be a first symptom of joystick failure. Mine did that, and also developed a habit of dropping into Regen mode while climbing steep hills, before the dealer replaced it.