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Yes, same functions in the same places, just so much more solid.

Yes, I have one if those. It plugs in easily to the RR, but the power won't stay on. I'm still working with Luna to see if it is a part failure issue or a part compatibility issue.

I picked up an 11-34 rear cog and will install it this weekend, along with some Maxxis Hookworms and new tubes. Still looking for a new dashboard that will eliminate the speed limitation.

New fork arrived today. It is a huge improvement in stiffness over the original fork, and appears it will be much more stable.

I bought a new display from lunacycle.com that should arrive soon. I'm pretty curious to see if it makes any difference.

Nah, I still ride it. It's just a little more firm is all, and the forks stay totally compressed all the time.

Yes, that's the one. The new fork is something by Top Gun, but I haven't seen it yet, so not sure about any specifics.

Controlled by what... The controller? The display?

I've done that, and top speed doesn't change. The speedo shows 12 mph or so, but the power drops off and the actual speed stops right where it always does at around 22-23 mph. I think the motor just won't spin any faster.

Roughly 980 miles on my Rad Rover, and my front suspension collapsed while riding. I didn't even notice what happened at first, just that it 'felt funny'. It wasn't until I left work that night that I noticed what the problem was. I ride canal trails and bike lanes mostly, probably 98% pavement...

Isn't all this moot because of the windings of the motor itself? What you list sounds correct, and I think we'd see faster acceleration, but I do not think the motor is wound for more RPMs than what it currently provides. It just sort of peters out at the top end of the speed range. Is the...

Mine does that, too. 800 miles now and it doesn't seem to be a big deal. Just a thing.

750 770 by the time I get home tonight. Should hit the big 1,000 mile mark next week!

Yeah, but that light is just a regular light. If it were wired into the RR battery, I'd be interested.

595 miles. Been good for awhile now, no issues except I finally took off the silly light. Just not bright enough to see anything.

A voltage regulator would step the voltage down to the right level, or a resistor would work, too. I decided to install a 1200 lumen light I had on another bike for now. Didn't want to mess with the voltage discrepancy.

Has anybody experimented with replacing the headlight? Mine is starting to blink erratically as though there is a short somewhere, and since it isn't all that bright, I am considering replacing it entirely, but using the stock wiring and just soldering in a new light. Ideas/suggestions...

From way back in high school physics, W = A x V, so at 11A output and 48V, you're looking at a normal 528 watts output. Max output of the controller looks like 1,056 watts, but you're right - there is an 800 watt limit according to my lcd display. I'm no expert, but what is the bottleneck on...

Ok.

220 per wheel? Just keep both wheels on the ground and you'll be fine. :) But no, superglue is not the right product for that. Keep the spokes tightened properly yourself or take it to a shop like I did for the first time.