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I doubt that there could be an issue with turning the motor itself backwards since there's really not that much that can go wrong there AFAIK. However, if there are reduction gears between the motor and the chainwheel, what you are doing is driving that gear train backwards and possibly putting...

My Shimano MT7 shoes are the most comfortable SPD shoes that I've owned. They're sort of intended more for "bikepacking" than hard-core MTB riding and are flexible enough to make them comfortable for walking around while still being stiff enough for riding. Also, once I had shoes with the Boa...

I could have written this post, especially the comparison to the Crosstrail, which has been my go-to bike for >10 years. The "old trusty" Crosstrail is currently hoisted up in the garage as I've had no urge to ride it lately after getting my SL. And I also like being able to lift the SL onto my...

@waghmare I assume you meant "carbon fork" unless you have something that the rest of us do not. I finally figured out what the issues were with my riding position and solved them with a bit of a posture change and will not be trying to raise the bars. I am also planning on getting the...

I used this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CPJMCDX?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details. It was not without issues, as I had to use a file to narrow the center tab so that the headlight would fit over it. It doesn't matter now since I am out of ideas for finding a riser stem that works with...

Sorry, I meant that question for this threads OP (@BikeOn) , who started out saying that she had a SL 5.0.

Just to clarify further, is your bike a SL 5.0 with the FutureShock? And did you end up with a stem extension on top of that? If so, that's interesting since the FS has some restrictions on what stems, etc. can be used on it. For example, a conventional top cap wouldn't ordinarily work with the...

The OEM Specialized stem that came on my Vado SL with the FutureShock 1.5 is made to fit a 1-1/8" steerer, and it has the thick shim installed. To install a standard 1-1/8" aftermarket stem, I just had to knock the shim out of the OEM stem and press it into the new stem and slide it onto the FS...

This is what I mentioned in an earlier reply. The "mount tube" must be 40mm high -- no more, no less. Also, what Ritchey stem are you trying to use? According to the link that was in an earlier post of yours, the Ritchey should work since it has a 28.6mm steering diameter, which will work with...

I was wearing thin nitrile work gloves and my technique was to press down with my thumbs on the outer part on opposite sides of the cap and then push/pull them in opposite directions to exert a counter-clockwise torque on it. Worked better for me than trying to get a grip on the very thin edge...

Note that on a Future shock bike can only use a stem with a 40mm stack height or else the top cap will not screw on. Often, stems with a high angle have a stack greater than 40 as I found with a 35deg stem with a stack of 42mm that would not work on my Vado SL 5. Going with a 30deg Ritchey instead.

No, there's not. The "fancy SRAM changer" the OP was referring to is the SRAM wireless electronic AXS system that's found on the high-end Creo SLs and maybe some others, but not on the Vado line.

This is the one I'm getting that has a compatible 40mm stack height. It comes in other lengths, but the 80mm was the best for me as far as the change in position is concerned.

Unfortunately, there are few stem options for the 5.0. The OEM stem on mine is 75mm @ 14deg and I recently found an 80mm@35deg stem that the stem calculator showed would raise the bars by 24mm and set them back 16mm, which sounded perfect. I installed it and found it to work well as far as bar...

Don't those swept back bars put you in a really upright position when using them? I prefer a forward lean partly so I don't have all my weight on the seat. I have enough trouble staying comfortable in that area as it is.

I don't blame you there. Uphills are easier since the worst is usually that you have to jump off and push if the rear tire can't get traction in the loose stuff, but downhill I often don't feel as in control as I'd like to be and braking the front tire can often make things worse.

It was single track, but actually smoother than many of our unpaved roads around here. We've had this discussion here before, but the term "gravel" means different things to different areas around the world. Our gravel/dirt roads are best traversed with a full suspension MTB and any attempt on...

I think you're going to miss having more of a suspension. Remember, the FutureShock has only 20mm -- < 1 inch -- travel and the rear is solid. I tried something similar last week and quickly discovered the limits.

I discovered this as well today when I took a long ride on my road bike for the first time this year. My wrists and shoulders were much more comfortable than on my SL 5 and I realized that there were two factors at play: first off, the bars are a lot narrower, and when I'm riding with my hands...

I've found that many (most) current bikes have pedals that can be removed by a hex key from the back side of the crank arm. In fact, the ones on my current bike don't even have the flats on the pedal side that a pedal wrench/spanner can be used on. Also, using a regular hex socket makes it easy...