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This is what I mentioned in an earlier reply. The "mount tube" must be 40mm high -- no more, no less. Also, what Ritchey stem are you trying to use? According to the link that was in an earlier post of yours, the Ritchey should work since it has a 28.6mm steering diameter, which will work with...

I was wearing thin nitrile work gloves and my technique was to press down with my thumbs on the outer part on opposite sides of the cap and then push/pull them in opposite directions to exert a counter-clockwise torque on it. Worked better for me than trying to get a grip on the very thin edge...

Note that on a Future shock bike can only use a stem with a 40mm stack height or else the top cap will not screw on. Often, stems with a high angle have a stack greater than 40 as I found with a 35deg stem with a stack of 42mm that would not work on my Vado SL 5. Going with a 30deg Ritchey instead.

No, there's not. The "fancy SRAM changer" the OP was referring to is the SRAM wireless electronic AXS system that's found on the high-end Creo SLs and maybe some others, but not on the Vado line.

This is the one I'm getting that has a compatible 40mm stack height. It comes in other lengths, but the 80mm was the best for me as far as the change in position is concerned.

Unfortunately, there are few stem options for the 5.0. The OEM stem on mine is 75mm @ 14deg and I recently found an 80mm@35deg stem that the stem calculator showed would raise the bars by 24mm and set them back 16mm, which sounded perfect. I installed it and found it to work well as far as bar...

Don't those swept back bars put you in a really upright position when using them? I prefer a forward lean partly so I don't have all my weight on the seat. I have enough trouble staying comfortable in that area as it is.

I don't blame you there. Uphills are easier since the worst is usually that you have to jump off and push if the rear tire can't get traction in the loose stuff, but downhill I often don't feel as in control as I'd like to be and braking the front tire can often make things worse.

It was single track, but actually smoother than many of our unpaved roads around here. We've had this discussion here before, but the term "gravel" means different things to different areas around the world. Our gravel/dirt roads are best traversed with a full suspension MTB and any attempt on...

I think you're going to miss having more of a suspension. Remember, the FutureShock has only 20mm -- < 1 inch -- travel and the rear is solid. I tried something similar last week and quickly discovered the limits.

I discovered this as well today when I took a long ride on my road bike for the first time this year. My wrists and shoulders were much more comfortable than on my SL 5 and I realized that there were two factors at play: first off, the bars are a lot narrower, and when I'm riding with my hands...

I've found that many (most) current bikes have pedals that can be removed by a hex key from the back side of the crank arm. In fact, the ones on my current bike don't even have the flats on the pedal side that a pedal wrench/spanner can be used on. Also, using a regular hex socket makes it easy...

For those who are thinking of or are a fan of Selle Anatomica saddles, my X2 with <200 miles is for sale in the For Sale section of the forums at a great price 😄.

Selle Anatomica X2 saddle for riders 120-180lbs. Aluminum frame, tubular stainless steel rails. Used less than 200 miles. Great saddle, but doesn't work in my particular case. $179 list, sell for $99 with shipping included to USA lower 48 states.

@Stefan Mikes What mounting arrangement do you use? On my SL, the left side has the grip, then the remote, then the brake lever. On the right the sequence is grip, brake, shifter. Which side of the left-side remote do you put the bar end? On the right side, does it make it more difficult to...

Welcome to the club, @GGinMP . I'm using the small Hafny bar-end mirror and like it for the most part. It doesn't have the field of vision of the Mirrcycle that I've used on a number of bikes, but is very clean looking and goes with the SL's style IMO.

It was apparently a one-time thing and hasn't repeated since then.

Just the OEM Pathfinders at this time. I might go with tubeless Pathfinder Pros next year, possibly 42s, but want to fully understand what I'm getting into with a tubeless setup before taking the plunge. Some recent articles on things like maintaining the sealant level, etc., have put me off a bit.

I got my SL 5.0 out on some of our gravelly trails that I'm very familiar with yesterday for the first time, comparing it to both my Vado 4.0 and my old Crosstrail hybrid. It's much closer to the Crosstrail than the old Vado, which is exactly what I was looking for. The first part of this ride...

Will it outrun a grizz in Turbo mode? 😁