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My Garmin Varia radar taillight is set to blink, but when an approaching car gets closer it gets brighter and blinks faster, giving the driver an extra signal.

Sounds nice. What seat? And a photo or two would be in order!

Solution to the lockring problem. I'm very confident that I could tighten it sufficiently this way and probably close to the specified torque. Everything went well and the new wheels are on the bike with chain installed, etc. I had to re-center the front brake caliper slightly; the rear was...

Not enough clearance to get a cassette tool in there to tighten the lockring. I have a "solution" and should have it resolved by later today...

Easy to do since the magnet is integrated with the lockring. For "extra credit", can you tell me what's "wrong" here that is causing some considerable trouble for me in finishing this job? :confused:

The cassette tool is in case you want to remove the inset ring that the bolt presses against when self-extracting?

They're here! My new custom wheels from ProWheelbuilder.com arrived today. Why new wheels? Mainly because I wanted them and it's fun to configure a bespoke wheelset. They're built around silent Onyx Vesper hubs and silver bladed Sapim spokes (stays with the black & silver scheme of my Vado SL...

Numerous crashes? Exactly how often do you crash, Stefan? Do these happen at random times or do you have a particular schedule that you follow so that you remember to crash? ;) In any case, nice job on the repair and a good explanation of the mechanics involved. I hope that it holds up for you!

Just the front. My bike is a non-EQ with the taillight in the seat, which went away when I got the Redshift seatpost and a different seat. I use a Garmin Varia radar taillight instead.

The motor in the current SL is definitely not silent, which I find mildly annoying at times, and a bit embarrassing when I'm on a group ride with mostly non-e-bikers. My old Vado 4.0, on the other hand, was completely silent in that regard.

It's actually quite easy if you don't mind losing the light. Just pull the wires up out of the downtube, disconnect, tape them up, and it's done. I use a Garmin Varia radar taillight, which IMO is functionally superior to the one that comes on the bike seat anyway. On my SL 5.0 non-EQ, I...

This is what I had built for my Cannondale Synapse road bike in 2014. That bike had white and blue accents and these wheels really set it off with the blue anodized hubs and spoke nipples. I was tempted to do something like that for my SL but since the bike is all silver and black, it might be a...

That's interesting. I suspect that many (most?) hub mfrs do it that way. I also noticed a lack of suitable wheelsets but anyway am having them custom built, which is a lot of fun. In addition to spec'ing the brands and models of the components, there's also options for spoke count and lacing...

The Vado SL uses a 12mm front axle, which is closer to the .440" that the OP measured. This, by the way, is causing me issues in spec'ing out a set of custom wheels. While there are a number of front hubs available in the 15x110mm "boost" size for MTBs, there are not many in 12x110mm, which is...

I've never seen an error that seemed to go away by itself that didn't later come back. Good luck on analyzing and fixing this!

My Vado SL 5.0 weighed 35.5 pounds as delivered. I didn't record what it was after I added the basics including a rack, bottle cages, and sidestand. I'll have to weigh it again someday with all the other things I've added, with and without my rack bag, etc.

OP here. This has turned into quite a thread, but my conclusion is that I'll be sticking with tubes. At my age, I ride less and am less likely to be riding in the types of places where flats are a known hazard, and anyway this is not known as an area that's prone to causing them (I don't even...

For something to do over the winter, I'm thinking of having a new set of wheels made up for my Vado SL 5.0 and then make the decision on whether or not to go tubeless. I know that a number of you have been running tubeless for a while and would like to hear what you think about your experience...

I've had very good luck just pulling off the freewheel/cassette assembly (no tools required) and lubing it with a proper freewheel grease. So far it's lasted a few hundred miles with no further attention required.

I'm also considering the Vesper hub. Using a sprag clutch instead of pawls or ratchets makes it totally silent. I'm not sure why I'm so focused on a silent freewheel, but there it is. Of course, they don't come cheap and I'll probably go with a different front hub. Compared to the rear, it seems...