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If you can get a new battery that supports Bluetooth, you could control it through the Mission Control app.

Walk assist is normally used uphill, not on the flat, so it will be a bit too powerful = fast on the flat

My question would be why? A Como isn't designed to go super fast.

I ended up replacing the Rosenberger connector in the frame (got one from Mouser Electronics - Spesh don't stock it). Mine was doing something similar and I came up with a brilliant idea to fix ti after trying to clean the connectors. I put a bit of tinfoil between the connectors and 'hey...

Hey Doug, if you can get a 500W wheel it is soooooo worth it! My battery is also de-restricted (ie no upper limit) which requires a special factory firmware. I've had all three wheels (200, 250 and 500W). The 250 is also a lot nicer and not as different from the 500 as the numbers would suggest...

Fairly sure the Comp would do away with Di2. Electronic shifting adds a lot of cost and the Comp will be about hitting some more budget-friendly numbers. I imagine it will be mechanical 105 with an SLX-11 rear (M7000). Don't forget how product marketing works. The price difference will be such...

FYI I have reviewed this bike. https://electricbikesnz.com/2019/07/25/specialized-creo-sl-expert-evo/ My son has also reviewed it and I believe came to similar conclusions - it's a darn good bike.

In my experience, wind and speed are the most significant factors. Your weight is also a factor but only if the terrain is hilly or you are slowing down and speeding up frequently. Hills too, but not nearly as much as you think because every hill has a downhill where you use ~0 power.

You can read my review of the Creo SL EVO spec here - pricing is in NZ dollars. I don't think it is as eye-wateringly expensive as people make out. The carbon ones that have been announced are all S-Works-grade fact11 carbon, carbon wheels, Di2 etc. and that would make a very expensive road...

+1 Almotion in 700x50. I converted my Turbo S wheels to tubeless and love the feel, but YMMV with mounting and dealing with trouble. Currently front one is tubeless and rear has a tube after I couldn't get the tubeless to reseal. If you ride in the wet, the Almotions are vastly better than...

In all my commuting and MTB experience in the dark, I've never had much success with bar-mounted lights. They can be fairly bright like the Vado 6, but are still not as effective as a helmet-mounted light. I ride with a Gloworm X2 on the helmet that has been customised with narrow optics. That...

On the classic Turbo they have something on the low voltage side. Not sure about the Brose bikes but the Rosenberger connection is specifically designed that way so that you don't get arcing across the contacts when you plug it in.

It does depend on where you are and what local laws are. Here in NZ they can go 45km/h, in Europe only 27 (17ish mph) and I would expect 20mph (32km/h) as a Class 1 in USA/Massachusetts. So I'd suspect the dealer/distributor has set it up with the wrong region.

At work I charge on the bike, at home I tend to charge of the bike. Largely on account of the position of the power plug, and a little bit because of the disturbing nature of flickering lights that you get with the turbo S/Levo charger.

I ordered a spare Rosenberger plug from Mouser Electronics and had my LeBS fit it (it's fairly simple but the wires need to be properly connected and insulated etc.

It's been out for a while @ROJA . It's pretty much the same as the old one, and no, still doesn't support Vado. Works for Turbo S/X and Levo.

Aluminum foil to help connection was NOT a good idea! It melted. I have ordered a replacement component from a Rosenberger distributor in Hong Kong.

Batteries are happiest being stored at around half charge, especially if you are not using them for a while. You are better off to not top up the battery unless you are going to need full charge next ride. Running to flat is also not the best. Having said all this, don't sweat it, your battery...

Drill a small hole in the cap and attach a tether like this. You'll never lose one again.

Having now done >23,000km on my 2016 Turbo and removing the battery daily, the interface between battery and bike has become problematic. I've worked around it with a bit of aluminium foil to help the electrical interface, but expect I'll need a new connector. Anyone else had this issue?