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It's exactly the other way round. You want to judge the real wear of the chain (the lengthening) and to take the wear of the rollers out of the equation. As the chain gauge measures the rollers wear too (sometimes doubled as it pushes them apart) it is less precise (and possibly just tells you...

There seem to be no restrictions resulting from your rotor model so various 4-piston-brake pads should fit your TRP Zurich as well: TRP Q12RS (resin pads), TRP Q15TS (sintered metal), TRP Q10TS (full-metal, old type), Galfer FD426 advanced G1851, Galfer FD426 standard G1053.

That isn't the complete rotor model code. Have a look at your rotor. It should read TR180-xx (29 ?) or similar. xx is the model code for your rotor you got to find out. Q20.11 is the code for the brake pads, but you're searching for other brake pads that are allowed for your rotor model.

Take a look at your brake rotor: which TRP model?

So after READING the other threads you do have a couple of hints how to install the Abus frame lock (read: frame, not front) by yourself. There is no difference between ebike or bio-bike installation of the frame lock. Two hours without result but LBS willing to help you further? How?

Did you come along this thread using the search funktion? https://electricbikereview.com/forums/threads/abus-cafe-style-frame-lock-on-como-4-0.35319/ No need to drill into the bike frame. IMHO putting a frame lock onto the front wheel is useless and I haven't seen someone doing that. Your LBS...

The Abus frame lock 5750L can be used with a Abus adaptor chain 6KS/ as well.

I know: https://electricbikereview.com/forums/threads/como-slipping-fix.29865/post-219365 Fine that it works for your cruising conditions. Your short report in the linked thread might be helpful for others.

No wonder. There aren't any 12-speed pins in the market you could buy.

Please check before you shorten your chain by six links which might be too much. I just stumbled over this:

Close to touching the cassette? This is mine using cog 11:

The Shimano dealer document explains it like method 1 in the video @bellandbottle has linked above, i.e. the rear derailleur is out of the measuring game. I second @Sierratim and IMHO your chain is too long. So there isn't enough tension and your derailleur clutch has to take the job (too...

As I understand it your actual chainring has 40T and you're intending to use a 48T chainring. Of course you do need a bigger chainguard for 48T. Let your LBS order it together with the 48T chainring.

That's easily supported: return the dumplings to the store. :cool:😇 PS ---------- sorry, couldn't resist

@Douglas Ruby You got me wrong. I'm not contradicting that moving to a 48T chainring is the right way but asking why to exchange the whole cassette if you could just swap the 11T and 13T small sprockets of the cassette instead, for far less money?

Yep. I trust @Stefan Mikes has already started to make his own as shown here https://electricbikereview.com/forums/threads/chain-ring-tooth-selection.33187/post-268218 - from the old exchanged chains. So is there a new home bike mechanic born already? You wouldn't believe it, would you? 😃

You need the Shimano lock ring tool TL-LR15 to unlock the cassette and the Shimano's dealers manual for the cassette is helpful: Shimano DM-MBCS001-01. https://si.shimano.com/#/en/DM/MBCS001

Measured at various places? Maybe that's the price for speeding (S-ped). ;) I just measured mine (6 places): 127.3mm after 1.500 miles.

I agree in most points, but not in the above: replacing the chain ring is an easy job, just need a few tools for about 22€ and 1/2 hour time, and you can buy good quality ones easily for 1/3 or 1/2 price of the Specialized chain ring. Buying a chain gauge is a waste of money if you have a...

That's why I don't like the Shimano quick links / KMC missing links. Get the SRAM powerlock quick link next time. No special tool needed and reusable.