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you might consider running it as low as it goes for a while (agree with leaving a small gap!) and then raising it a few mm every week or two as you get comfortable with the bike, until you reach the more optimum position with nearly full leg extension at bottom of pedaling circle. but no need...

ah, they must have switched to SRAM more recently! in any case, disengaging the clutch makes for moderately better shifting on road - personally i could hardly tell the difference on GRX 8xx

eagle GX (i believe that's what your vado sl 5 has) derailleur doesn't have a selectable clutch; it's more like it's always engaged which is where you'd want it for maximum chain retention. on the shimano GRX and other shimano rear derailleurs you can disengage the clutch and it shifts a little...

coastal environment? salty air?

i’m no fan of rim brakes (horrible if it’s wet!!) but the braking area is distributed over a much much larger surface (nearly the entire circumference x 1cm) compared to a rotor, so it doesn’t see the same stresses at all.

have you ridden a size 49 creo 2 or scott solace? ought to be a good fit for a 5 foot-ish rider. a few of my cycling friends have similar dimensions and ride +/- 49cm frames. both are pretty light, class 3!

the final cost is always paid by buyers, the money doesn’t come from anywhere else!

it’s called “bike & run tracker - cadence” https://apps.apple.com/us/app/bike-run-tracker-cadence/id1490975634 on an iphone 13 mini, the battery lasts about 8 hours with 1/4 screen off, 1/2 on stats, and 1/4 on maps, using other apps, etc. i’ve done 100 miles without topping up, but for a ride...

nice. if you decide you want more data and if your bike has standard cranks, it’s possible to get cadence and one-sided power for about $250 in a 5 minute crank swap.

i strongly recommend the "cadence" cycling app for iPhone (and i'm sure the android version is excellent.) rideWithGPS is better for routing and nav but cadence has the best displays for keeping tabs on heart rate, speed, cadence, elevation, etc etc. super customizable, tons of graphics options...

i was expecting something more like the positioning plate you describe, with a non-magnetic slightly sloped to a magnetic circle the same size as the one on the pedal!

this is something i did a few times but never bothered recording or documenting. it’s too bad he didn’t try motor off on the smooth flats in the beginning, but you’ll see throughout the video that the creo power meter is high by 10-25%. i never found it to be off by quite that much, but the...

very unobtrusive “cleat” design on the shoe side! it’s just a flat piece of magnetic metal?

yes, and that’s a pretty conservative range for 24mm rims.

25mm. roval terra CLX. mainly ran with 30mm but also 32. the stated reason is “to avoid risk of bottoming out” due to the relatively low bottom bracket height. certainly not a risk in road riding with a mere 6mm difference. you seem to be commenting on things out of your direct experience!

the wheels are fine, as noted they are 24mm wide which is slightly wider than the current road standard, but just fine for 32mm tires. even 30mm tires work well on 24mm width and in fact come closer to a more optimal aerodynamic profile. the "light bulb" shape made by narrow rims and wide tires...

stefan, read the original post. “need some experts to help guide a new person figure out how to make my Creo 2 more of a Road bike than a gravel bike.…” step one in making it more of a road bike : road tires.

32mm tires are far from skinny - traditional roadies are still arguing whether 25mm or 28mm are too fat 😂😂😂 as you know i rode many thousands of miles on my creo, on a wide range of roads from good to bad, and while i found 28 or 30mm tubeless ideal, 32 is a good compromise for those looking...

the real question is what kind of surfaces you’re riding on. gravel tires make compromises on road (higher weight, rolling resistance, and drag) to be able to ride safely and comfortably off road. if you’re riding exclusively on pavement, you want tires that are optimized for that. the G540...

transmission is interesting - but hardly as revolutionary as SRAM likes to claim. the eccentric machining of lots of ramps and bumps in the cassette has been a feature of higher end shimano cassettes for a long time, and for normal mortals they shift very nicely under load. what is interesting...