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It is probably the right thing, but here in the Pacific NW, drying out is not that common 😅

Frequency of click? Does the wheel spin rate make a difference? Does the chain have to be moving? Does it happen without riding, just spinning the wheel? These are the typical things one checks.

Once the tire is seated once with a tube, if the rims and tires are tubeless ready, once one puts on the tape, if is pretty easy to go tubeless. One does not have to change the sealant. I have never have, it holds until I wear out the tire. STW: I am not sure. I think most e-bikes owners are...

Also know that some tubes don't work that well with vulcanizing (e.g. TipTop brand) patches. There are many types of materials for tubes these days. Vulcanizing patches work best with butyl rubber tubes. I find that changing the rear tire is no more of an issue than on a regular bike. It...

On some bikes there is an offset of the chain ring teeth and the chain. I.e. they have to go on "in sync" and cannot be off by one link. Check to see if the teeth are all uniform on the chain ring. If not it may require you to reset the chain by one link forward or back. I agree and call...

Yes. As said, break the whole bead, both sides. Then proceed to get one of the beads outside the rim, then go for the tube. Also once you have a tool inside the first bead, and some lubricant*, you should be able to hold the bead outside, and slide the tool around the rim and get the rest of...

I had a niece who got flats in cars about every 2 months, ON NEW TIRES! I was visiting her, and took a short ride with her and found out why she was getting so many flats. She would not hesitate to drive and track the tires through the debris zone on the side of the road. It was as if she was...

You could just pull a link or two and tighten up the chain. I would check the rear derailleur arm for tension, in the full range. They might have not put on the right length chain for the full range. Likewise, the derailleur chosen for the bike might be the wrong arm length. Also...

For flats, a couple of observations. 1) Real rubber (?) butyl rubber tubes patch much better with vulcanizing patches. A lot of the other tires don't seem to melt properly during the vulcanization process. 2) I run Tubeless because it will self seal. I usually just need to give a bit more air...

Was Serious. Really. I think the thing that is hard to "measure" is momentum assist. For instance: When you put in a burst of effort (no assist) to get going faster or up to a cruising speed your legs feel it. When you are at cruising speed and just need to keep the momentum, with a good...

Below 30 rpm and 10th is considered "grinding" gears, so it is expected to feel it in the pedals and cranks. Got to choose a better gearing and higher cadence. You should try any gear but a cadence of 60+. The motors are better at assisting at a reasonable cadence. My battery cover needed...

I ride a Moustache Dimanche 29.5. Cadence is the number of turns you do on the pedals per minute. With that motor, if you can keep between 65 and 75 you should be good on anything. Plenty of power to "assist". On my ride, one change of the cogs (gear up or down) equals about 10 in...

Those persistent connections are the first to go. The communication "stack" on both sides can cause problems. Consider "resetting" both at the same time. Reset = do what ever is needed to reinitialize, the lower level the better.

Did you reset the brake mounts? I.e. after new pads, consider loosening the brake mounts and realigning them in the center. Also Drywall sanding "paper" is best for resetting the pad. Ordinary sand paper does not work well because it grinds material into the pad versus removes the outer layer.

And when ride at the same speed with the assist off, should I call out to them something like "slacker"? Yesterday I rode with Eco mode full time. First time in 9 months. I had to get to an appointment. I was running between 80-90 cadence and hitting 19-23 mph on a 17mph max assist. I was...

It is the ratio of weight. Your legs moving provide significant amount of the total weight. On a motorcycle, not the case. And by that non logic, a bicycle wheel weighs the same as a motorcycle wheel. Also higher cadence allows for adjusting the balance many times per minute.

You need to keep your cadence higher. This is the number of pedal turns per minute. Usually 60-70 is the minimum. 70-80 is much better. When you have a higher cadence the bike will balance better due to the gyro effect. Below 50 you are asking for trouble. Regardless of e-bike or not...

Hi All, On paper the KIOX has a micro USB port that should output enough to charge a small head lamp or top off a cell phone. So I tried to hook one up only to find that physically, I cannot get a cord plugged into the KIOX and place the KIOX back on the mounting frame. The plug interfered...

Gloves are a good idea. I fell over a few days ago using cleats, which I forgot I had on. Still wacked myself.

I agree, just slap a new fork on there for 250 and a new tire for same and go forth. Probably an upgrade actually.