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36 volt is weak sauce compared to what's selling now for the same money. I would check out rad power among others.

You can select what colors flash/ sequence. I've been told that it looks like a law enforcement light when you first see it flashing red/blue. That could be good or bad..... At the very least, it is super bright and impossible to ignore.

Alternatively, this fits (like it was made for it!) in my $25 dollar walmart bike helmet. It is annoyingly bright! https://www.amazon.com/ThorFire-Rechargeable-Intensity-Accessories-Flashlight/dp/B01NCPSQV3/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1500217149&sr=8-8&keywords=bicycle+tail+light

Interesting. I like my brakes to be pretty IMMEDIATE and have read that these are squishy with our type brake levers. So by progressive, is there a bit of lever action before they start really clamping? On another ebike that I built, I replaced the tektro base caliper with a TRP (same company...

I too looked into the HY/RD conversion. One huge caveat. They are designed for long pull / road type brake levers, and have read that putting them on mountain type bikes resulted in spongy and bottoming out brakes due to difference in brake lever design. If you do try them, please report back...

Might be easier to swap out the chainring?

I too would like to get rid of the useless 5lb fork that I keep in the locked position. What steel fork works? Walawn, can you be more specific on the issues you ran into and what eventually worked? I've not taken Rover apart yet, but looking at stuff available on fleabay, I see one like this...

That is most likely an adjustment issue. Also, check by getting behind the bike and looking forward to see if the cage is bent.

Yes, all part of the design. Just because there is voltage at the output, there is no useful energy available, it has an incredibly high internal resistance at this point.

Yes, I'm talking about the circuitry within the battery itself. It is actually a rather complex bit of engineering in the battery.

There is likely a "pull up" circuit on the solid state switch. It would be fed by a high resistance resistor and a cap that gets charged by it. You would have a higher voltage initially until the load of your meter drains it out to the pull up voltage through that high resistor.

Yes the Duros that I mentioned on this forum a few times did the same thing.

Rad can be adjusted to 24 IIRC. Depends where you live, but if you go flying by a cop at 30 mph, you may have some splaining to do and a ticket to frame. My middrive kit bike has a new top speed of 38.6 recorded, but was with a hella tailwind.

This looks like a bit of fun: (Link Removed - No Longer Exists)

Topeak fat rack and matching trunk seem to be made for the Rover. (Link Removed - No Longer Exists) I like the panniers that drop out the trunk.

Added fenders, and a stem extender to raise the handlebars, and an axiom rack since this picture. Now have over 300 miles on it, and am totally loving this thing. Perfect ebike for me so far. So far about 15 to 20% more efficient than the Rover, which I hope to sell now.

I never wore a bike helmet. Until I became an ambulance pilot. Now I wear a helmet. When you see people lose everything, or close to everything, and it could have been greatly attenuated; when you see that up close and personal, well..... I now wear a helmet.

Update?

I'm guessing you have a power problem, my first test point would be the plug at the BBSO2 where the batteries feed. BE CAREFUL. This is how you get KFC. (Kentucky Fried Fingers). A BBSHD is available if it truly is fried, which I doubt, for someone specifically in your shoes...