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You're experience's are a bit outdated, some of today's E-bike lights that run off the bikes battery are extremely bright, and compare favorably with motorcycle lights.

But there is a real risk of knee injury that has nothing to do with maximizing power. Be careful, if your knees consistently hurt after a ride you might want to rethink your seat height. I have bad knees, an they're very sensitive to seat height even though I'm only a commuter and casual cyclist.

I like the Cycleaware Reflex as it provides a greater range of view, and is less vulnerable than fixed mirrors. https://www.amazon.com/CycleAware-Reflex-Helmet-Mirror/dp/B01F7G5WYU

+1

Absolutely a freewheel.......and positively not a cassette.

There are only 2 pedal thread sizes, 9/16" 20 tpi, and 1/2" 20 tpi. Almost all contemporary bikes including all RPB bikes use 9/16" 20 tpi pedals,, no such thing as metric pedal threads.

NO! don't assume! They're 3/8 X 26 TPI on the Radwwagons DD hub. The geared hub may be different.

Shimano cassettes and freewheels use the same tool. It would be a matter of finding one of the older style tools that go deep enough to engage the splines of a freewheel. This type of tool has been used for a long time by touring cyclists.

Damn, I totally forgot about those types of tools. Just the ticket for those with the wire in the axle. Well done!

Basically any standard 2 rail saddle will fit. Likely you mistakenly got a post mount. I use a Selle Royal Becoz moderate and really like it, but saddles are very personal and impossible to recommend to others. https://www.amazon.com/Selle-Royal-Moderate-Recyclable-Saddle/dp/B005UG97US

Great news! FWIW, the LBS is right, the OE rear derailleur is marginal at best, I replaced it with this one, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003OWPRLI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Now it shifts quickly, precisely, and silently without any need to fiddle with the levers...

I'm vert happy with my Radwagon for my very hilly commute and I'm 220 lbs. I think it offers an excellent balance of price, quality, and performance. At 6', the seatpost was about 1/2" too short, but I got a longer one from Amazon for $20...

The opening in my Park tool is 20mm in the body, and 10mm in the hex head for a depth of 10mm. 18mm is equivalent to a 11/16 drill bit. If you know somebody with a drill press, or milling machine, that is probably the best way to go as it is heat treated tool steel, and its likely the DNP tool...

My tail light came the other day and I wired it up, Spanninga Elips 6V to 48V 1.5w https://en.hollandbikeshop.com/bicycle-parts-electric-bicycle/e-bike-bicycle-lighting/e-bike-bicycle-rear-light/spanninga-elips-xe-rear-light-led-e-bike-80mm-red-461997/ It's almost plug-n-play with the RPB light...

I have the Busch & Muller IQ-X E headlight, It works with 6V to 48V and draws 7w, its roughly equivalent to a 600 lumen light. https://en.hollandbikeshop.com/bicycle-parts-electric-bicycle/e-bike-bicycle-lighting/e-bike-bicycle-headlight/busch-muller-lumotec-iq-x-e-led-headlight-150-lux-black/...

FYI, when I removed the OE freewheel it took major effort to break it free as the factory didn't grease the threads. It may be wise to hit it with some commercial quality penetrating lube the day before.

My controller has no problem driving a 7w, 6v to 60v Busch & Muller IQ-X E headlight, with a 1.5w, 6v to 48v Spanninga Elips tail light.

Something you need to check, if the Rover is like the Wagon, the chain ring is riveted to the crank, therefore it would be best to get a new crankset with bolted chain ring.

I have a Radwagon, so I didn't have any problem as it's wire doesn't exit the axle, can't help you there,, but the tool is fairly cheap if you do need to cut it. Park tool FR-1...

Yes that is correct, the 130mm is the mounting diameter. Here's all you'll need to know to make an informed choice. https://www.sheldonbrown.com/cribsheet-bcd.html