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This may help people compare them; http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/repair-stand-comparison-guide#article-section-1

Yes, I'm hoping the government doesn't change the incentives as I'm planning to get an e-car when I replace my current Golf in a few years. Maybe a Tesla 3 if it lives up to the hype.

Here's a recent BBC news article on the subject of electric cars in Norway; http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/business-36402942

I think the info you're looking for is in the link George posted. If your needs always require the "top half" power of the battery, you should probably be sizing your batteries differently and/or using high performance cells with less sag.

No, it's not that simple. 80/20 is not half (it's actually 60% ;) ) and 400 vs 1600 (is an example I've seen) is more than twice the cycles. As I've said, for some, the 80/20 rule is a simple one for some to follow, especially with a smart charger, that can extend the usable life of a battery...

Here it is - the cabling is a little messy since I changed the motor and battery but I'll sort it out one of these days. ;)

The new battery is great and has enough capacity that I can do a 20/80% charge without worrying about range. I don't have a recent pic. I will take one when I get home.

I'm guessing the 34mm is a BSA/JIS shell (which is what you want), the 42mm is a BB30 and the 46mm is a PF30. A very useful resource is this; https://www.empoweredcycles.com/blogs/news/101474694-bottom-bracket-standards The 68mm is of course the BB width.

The cycle analyst is overkill for you I think but there are more simple meters that will do the job. You may void your warranty for sure so check first. A multimeter that you can use on your battery will give a more accurate reading than a 3/4 light display - not useful for riding but, for...

Yeah, I wish I'd bought a satiator now too to be honest. Adapters may be an issue but there are usually good posts around by people who have made their own (it's usually not rocket science anyway).

BTW, you can use a multimeter to figure out how much charge your battery has. Here's a thread on endless sphere though there are many others I'm sure; https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=74465 For a 52V 14s4p Lithium Ion battery, full is 58.8v, 80% is about 55v, 50% is 51.8v...

Actually, battery life cycle is quite well understood. However, the reason why it seems vague and why it's difficult to get a hard and fast, "how long will my battery last/how many cycles will I get" is because of the many different variables such as how fast you charge, how deeply you charge...

I recently bought the new 52V Luna smart charger (new as in it's a 220V rated power supply for Europe) and it allows 80% or 100% charging at 1,2 3, 4 and 5 amps. It's nice but a little noisy compared to a fanless charger - though not as noisy as some fan chargers I've heard. It's $100. They do...

There has been a lot of discussion and study of this. How you charge and discharge your battery packs can and will have an impact on its longevity and performance. You can do a search over on endless-sphere and spend a couple of days reading if you want. Here are the cliff notes as I see them...

You have 2 problems. 1) the bb shell can be no thicker than 12 or 13 mm AFAIK and that is the limit of the space between the BBSHD axel housing that fits in the BB shell and the motor casing. 2) The other problem is that a BBSXX requires threaded BSA/JIS BB inner shell diameter to fit...

That was a lot. A couple of things; 1) the DPC-14 is not entirely accurate with 52V batteries. The voltage readings top out at 56v so only becomes accurate when the battery gets below this which is about 80% charge. I've just received my 52v battery but haven't wired it up yet so will know 1st...

I'd be interested in your carbon build as the BB shell thickness on carbon bikes is normally too thick to accommodate a BBSxx

Haters are going to hate for whatever bizarre reasons they have. ;)

A close up picture of the offending crank would tell us everything. ;)

If it's a typical Chinese ebike motor it's quite possibly a square taper crank and you could use Bafang replacement parts - both crank arms and/or crank bolts as needed. These are widely available and, in the U.S. can be had from lunacycle.com and california-ebike.com among others.