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The RCS has the same wire channel. The main reason they widened the downtube was so that the bigger batteries fit flush on the downtube instead of sticking out more on the left side on the CC and CCS. @Tora Harris can you comment about upgrading the CC or CCS with the CCX controller?

I don’t know for sure but without it the larger battery packs stick out more on the left side of the frame (I have the 17.4ah battery on my CC). My guess is they will update the frame to include the wider symmetrical downtube mount for the large battery pack like on the RCS.

There is no separate speed controller. It’s just the controller that controls the power going to the motor. Not positive if the RCS uses the exact same controller but it has the same nominal and peak power ratings as the CCS controller and obviously the same torque/cadence sensor. Mainly I was...

They sold refurb Cross Currents for a while. I think they were $250-$300 cheaper than buying new. That was what I recommended (refurb Cross Current) people buy anytime someone asked about the Cross Current Air.

It looks like the Rip Current S (wide downtube format) is using the same controller as the CCS. So the CCX controller may end up fitting in the CC/CCS frame. Just depends on whether they make it wider or not. TBH, I’ll probably just order the 20A controller when it’s back in stock. I’m not sure...

Yes, it should work on the Air too. My understanding is that it used the same controller as the Cross Current. You can always ask support to verify before you place the order.

Not sure, you can open a support ticket and ask. I suspect not if they are using the wider RCS downtube format on the CCX. The controller probably wouldn’t fit in the narrower downtube of the CC/CCS. Honestly, I think I’ll be happy with 1000W after living with 600-700W for over 2 years.

According to Juiced I can upgrade my original Cross Current to the CCS power level (20 amps peak) by upgrading to the CCS controller and LCD display. I’m planning to do that when the parts are back in stock. I’d love to see one other example of an OEM torque sensing e-bike brand that can be...

Can you guys point to one example of a torque sensing e-bike that gives you the option to upgrade after it is purchased? I have an original Cross Current with a ‘measly’ 13 amps of power. I was a little jelous of the 20 amps in the CCS but it’s just the nature of the e-bike industry that things...

Wow, the Cross Current X has a 25amp peak controller. I thought the 20 amp controller in the S felt powerful...

I have the same brakes on my original Cross Current. They take the Auriga sized pads (the 710’s use bigger pads.) I used these but they’re a bit noisy in wet conditions. Pretty sure anything advertised for the Deore M525 will work. Swiss Stop E-Bike Bicycle Disc Brake Pads - Pair (Disc 15 E -...

Just to clarify, chain drop to the inside is different than the chain getting jammed in between the chain ring and guard to the outside. On my Cross Current it would only get jammed to the outside on the top two cassette gears right after I shifted. The chain dropping to the inside only happened...

That is what fixed it for me. It was super annoying to have to stop the bike and get my hands all greasy to put the chain back on the front ring. It’s pretty easy to do as well (unlike the Shadow Plus derailleur upgrade.)

They are long term loaner bikes from Juiced.

I liked his videos of the CCS. Should be pretty interesting to see his videos commuting on the RCS for the next month or two.

I think the big boys (or perhaps some new Tesla-like entity) will figure out how to get efficiencies, and thus cost savings, through economies of scale. It’s still pretty early days for the ebike industry. There’s still a lot of low hanging fruit to improve upon.

The irony certainly isn’t lost on me. We’ve got the group complaining about quality contrasted with the group who literally can’t wait to get their hands on Juiced Bikes products.

Chris Froome can do about 440W for an hour. But I doubt most of us are doing more than about 150-200W on our ebikes.

Yes, if you google Jan Heine’s tests on bicycle tire rolling resistance this is what you’ll find. On real world (I.e., not perfectly smooth) roads the more supple tire will lose less energy.

I’ve heard all of the common arguments in my road cycling days. Even if you believe there is a small aerodynamic penalty (the data isn’t so clear on this question) it’s so small as to be irrelevant on an electric bike. Maybe you aren’t aware that these tires have a very low rolling resistance...