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I agree with you 100% on the battery. I wouldn't be surprised if the replacement is also more expensive than the current batteries. And it doesn't help that Rad has trouble keeping batteries in stock. Also, I don't understand the dual display thing. How does it help me to have the PAS level and...

Definitely a very cool bike and I'm sure Iacocca would be stoked to learn that someone was still riding it 20 years later. As suggested, I would try replacing the cassette on the rear wheel. It's not a difficult or expensive job, but it does require a specialized tool. Here's a video: The...

I have a Bafang G360 motor in a 700c wheel with a 25a KT controller. It's pretty beastly - pulls a trailer full of kids up an 8% grade no problem. Bafang rates it at 500w but I think that's very conservative. https://bafang-e.com/oem-area/components/component/motor/rm-g360500dc/

I love the graphics. Especially on the black one. The specs are pretty meh but the price is right and I think the styling (even sans graphics) is ahead of the Super73 and Juiced competition. And let's face it, this type of bike is all about style. I'd also be interested to learn whether the 24"...

Weird stuff like this moves the hobby forward. I love it. Although I'm a little envious because few of my own projects work the first try, and even fewer work better than expected. Everything work ok on one battery?

It's a Julet Z916. Kind of an oddball, unfortunately. Edit: Not actually that odd, but usually used on higher amp controllers/motors.

I'm pretty sure my mom's RadMini had a 40a fuse on the discharge side, so that should give you some indication as to what the battery can do. Even if the individual cells can handle more, the BMS (and that fuse) may limit it. Looks like a cool project. Keep us updated!

So, you will control the motors with separate throttles? Or just use PAS on the rear and throttle on the front? Seems like two motors at different speeds could create some interesting handling characteristics. I would be surprised if the stock battery can supply enough current for both motors...

It would have a lot more torque. Your top speed would be 8% higher ((52-48)/48). Motors have a Kv rating that determines how many rpm per volt a motor will spin. So, assuming you have enough torque to reach top speed (for a bicycle, it doesn't take much), the limiting factors are the motor's Kv...

Edit: as far as battery choice, you need to make sure that the discharge rating matches the power you want to achieve. Unit Pack Power is a popular vendor and pretty cost competitive.

On other thing - upgrading to a KT controller and LCD display will give you more adjustment and programming options, even if you don't increase the total power. Cost would be about $90.

Sure thing. If you ever decide to upgrade the battery, there are people reliably putting 2000w+ into those motors.

So, unfortunately that caps you at about 1000w with the current battery. 48v x 20a. Any more and you will blow the fuse and/or trip the BMS.

I think that number refers to the style of case. If you unscrew the black endcap, you may find a fuse on the discharge wires. That will give you an idea of the bms max discharge.

Do you have a link to the battery?

Maybe? I've never heard of anyone doing something like that before. I think it's probably better to determine what kind of controller and display you have, and then see if you can change the settings.

Probably. KT controller and display would be a possible upgrade. How many amps is the current controller? How many amps can your battery handle? There are also some cooling options for direct drive hubs that will help it handle more power, like Statorade and hubsinks. I'm not an expert on those...

I'm not an expert, but I think if you try to put some resistance inline between the controller and the battery, the controller will just try to pull more power and that could really heat up both the resistor and the battery. What kind of controller and display do you have? It may be possible...

No problem. I understand you disconnected the brake cutoff, but if you see that symbol on the display, it thinks the cutoff is engaged and that would disable throttle/PAS. Just something to double-check.

When the display is on, do you see the little brake cutoff symbol? It's between the battery and the clock and looks kind like "IOI". Edit: if you want to check the throttle output on the controller, you should be getting 5v on one of the pins. To check the throttle side, you need to supply 5v...