Selling my medium sized Watt Wagons Hydra. I paid $6,400 in June 2021 and it was delivered in late October 2021. I've put a little more than 700 miles on it since, mostly on the road. Would like to get $5000 $4750 for it.
Reason for selling is that I have almost exclusively been riding my...
As the title states I'm contemplating selling my Hydra. I paid $6,400 in June 2021 and it was delivered in late October 2021. I've put a little more than 700 miles on it since. Asking $5000 $4250.
Reason for selling is that with my weight (140lb) it's just a bit too much bike to wrestle with...
Just an FYI if anyone hasn't mentioned it yet, you don't actually have to remove the caliper to swap the 1 piece pads, you just need to remove the wheel and push the pistons in a bit with a (clean) plastic tire iron.
My front Magura brakes make a shuddering noise (but the power is consistent)...
If the cracks are circular that sounds almost like just a paint-level defect to me, but @Leon S. Kennedy is correct, carbon fiber fails in a sudden brittle failure unlike metals which experience ductile failure (with deformation).
He ended up buying a GX shifter because the cable would jam in the SX shifter pretty much every time he rode the bike. It was not good.
Brakes still suck, the Sram Guide G2 or whatever are not good and I would not recommend anyone put these on an ebike. Maybe with better than stock pads, but...
I've got a medium Hydra and it works great for me at 5'9" but the reach is actually quite long. I honestly wouldn't mind a small, but I ended up buying a non-powered mountain bike for trail riding so having a small nimble ride for trails doesn't matter as much for my ebike anymore.
I'll edit...
I've had similar issues with rotor rub, not actually on my ebike but on my other mtb. I installed MT7 Pros on my Santa Cruz Bronson - it took a couple of weeks of adjusting the calipers and truing the rotors to get it to a point where it was not rubbing. I've got 203mm Storm HC front and 180mm...
WW sent me a new cassette when I asked them about chain skipping, though they sent me a Shimano SLX 11-40T which would've been fine if it had a 46T or 50T. I ended up using the three smallest cogs from the Shimano and then keeping the rest of the Sunrace cassette on there.
I'd recommend...
I ended up ordering the MT5e levers from a company in Germany for about $120 for both and installed them on an afternoon. The wires were tucked up into the frame above the upper battery cradle. The worst part was fishing the wires out through the cable management holes. I'd say it was worth it...
Yeah I documented in one of my threads about the Honeywell SS49E hall-effect sensor replacement. I had gotten inspiration from another user. It made a huge difference in the throttle usability, it was no longer all or nothing and had a much more linear response.