Recent content by JL0256

It’s not straight math like 48 x 0.8 or 48 x 0.2. On most “48V” lithium packs, full charge is actually 54.6V and empty is somewhere around 39–41V, depending on the pack. So a rough estimate is: 80% = about 50–51V 20% = about 44–45V Also keep in mind voltage will sag a little under load, so...

No. Don’t do that based only on the “63V” number. That does not make it a 48V controller. A 48V pack charges to 54.6V, so you are already close to that limit, and voltage spikes can make it worse. More importantly, a scooter designed for 36V may have other parts that are not 48V-safe. So...

Hey Trey — sounds like the DAS kit/controller swap is the common trigger here. A few quick things I’d check: 1.Reseat every connector between battery → controller → display (especially any waterproof plugs) and look for bent pins/moisture. 2.Make sure the DAS controller is matched to your...

It’s crazy how much prices have jumped, but the tech is finally getting interesting. I’m with stompandgo on the DJI Avinox—it might be the first system to actually solve the weight-to-power problem without making the bike feel like a 50lb boat in the corners. Johnny, if you're coming from a...

Man, I’m sorry — losing a bike like that is a gut punch, especially when it only takes that one time you break your routine. For your next one, the Velotric D2 at ~$2k sounds like a solid move, and buying through ABS is smart for support/service. I’d also go a bit overkill on security this...

baking + kayaking + surf fishing… that’s a solid lineup. I’m mostly into DIY/wrenching and outdoor trips.

You generally can’t swap a CAN controller onto a UART BBS02—the protocol (and usually the wiring/display system) won’t match, so it won’t communicate or run correctly.The “headlight” lead on newer UART controllers is normal and optional. Your older motor can still work fine with a newer UART...

Totally get it — riding year-round in Portland rain will wear on anything. If the motor still feels good, a backup bike + a fresh battery sounds like a solid “peace of mind” plan. And honestly, keeping the Trek for casual rides and letting the tandem be the fun project feels like the right call.

That battery dying at 48% is brutal—no wonder you're hesitant to buy another one. 20k miles is a massive achievement though. Do you feel like the motor is starting to sound rough, or is it just the high mileage making you nervous? Either way, that 42t chainring is definitely your enemy on those...

Yeah, I’d say it’s totally doable to go back to analog with your numbers. 120–155W cruising and a 450W punch for short hills is solid — the only thing that’ll make or break those 18% blocks is gearing. If you go 1x, I’d lean 30T/32T up front + 11–51/52 in the back. A 36T might be fine on normal...

Yes, electric bicycles can make you fall in love with riding. Have a great ride.

Nice — smoother sound usually means the new controller is driving the motor better. Just keep in mind: a “250W” hub with an 18A controller can be way over 250W electrically (e.g., ~650W at 36V or ~850W at 48V), so heat is the main limitation. If you can set a current limit, ~15A gives a nicer...

It's not a stupid idea, but you have to be mindful of how you ride. The motor can likely handle short bursts of 18A, but the danger zone is stalling on hills. If you are going slow up a steep grade at full throttle, that energy turns into heat very fast, regardless of the outside temperature. If...

That’s actually a really fair point, Stefan. I hadn't considered the duration factor. I tend to focus on the intensity per mile, but you're right—if the e-bike encourages you to stay in the saddle for 3 hours instead of 1, the fitness benefit is huge. Anything that keeps us pedaling is a win in...

They’re tools for different jobs. A regular bike is simpler, lighter, and better exercise. An e-bike makes commuting, hills, and longer rides easier and gets more people riding more often. If you’ll ride more with assist, the e-bike is usually the better choice.