Search results

That’s a really neat idea. The thing I like most is not having to carry another bulky charger on longer rides or trips. If something like this works reliably with the USB-C adapters people already carry for laptops, I can see it being genuinely useful for touring. Nice project.

That’s a pretty convincing case for keeping things simple. Ten years on the original setup with the motor never needing to come out is hard to argue with. I also find it interesting that 36V/500W was enough for you for so long, and the move to 48V only came much later rather than being...

That makes a lot more sense with the numbers — especially backing it down to 18A rather than just running everything at the maximum. I also like the idea of having the temperature protection set conservatively. I’ll have a read through the build thread and your write-up. It’s always more useful...

Yeah, the BBS02B seems to have earned a pretty solid reputation for reliability. I can see why torque sensing would be hard to give up once you get used to the more natural feel.

That’s interesting. Is the main reason you prefer it the more natural riding feel, or do you find it better for everyday reliability as well? And do you feel 500W nominal is about the sweet spot for a normal commuter build?

Thanks for taking the time to go through all of that — there’s a lot there I hadn’t considered. Your point about asking why someone wants to convert the bike in the first place probably stands out the most. I was thinking mainly in terms of choosing the right kit, but it makes sense that...

That's a good point — I hadn't really thought about locked battery systems as part of the buying decision. I can see how that could become a problem a few years down the road if the original battery becomes difficult or expensive to replace.

I've been looking at different e-bike conversion setups lately, and the more I read, the more it seems like choosing a kit based mainly on motor wattage is probably the wrong way to go about it. At first it's easy to look at 500W, 750W, 1000W, etc. and assume that's the main decision. But after...

I’m usually happiest around 75–85 rpm. On longer climbs I might drop into the high 60s, but much lower than that starts to feel like grinding. One thing I really like about an e-bike is being able to keep a comfortable cadence even when the group pace changes.

The cold-weather performance would be the biggest win for me. Range loss in winter is still one of the most noticeable weaknesses of current e-bike batteries. I’m cautiously optimistic, but I’d like to see real-world cycle-life and safety data before getting too excited.

It’s not straight math like 48 x 0.8 or 48 x 0.2. On most “48V” lithium packs, full charge is actually 54.6V and empty is somewhere around 39–41V, depending on the pack. So a rough estimate is: 80% = about 50–51V 20% = about 44–45V Also keep in mind voltage will sag a little under load, so...

No. Don’t do that based only on the “63V” number. That does not make it a 48V controller. A 48V pack charges to 54.6V, so you are already close to that limit, and voltage spikes can make it worse. More importantly, a scooter designed for 36V may have other parts that are not 48V-safe. So...

Hey Trey — sounds like the DAS kit/controller swap is the common trigger here. A few quick things I’d check: 1.Reseat every connector between battery → controller → display (especially any waterproof plugs) and look for bent pins/moisture. 2.Make sure the DAS controller is matched to your...

It’s crazy how much prices have jumped, but the tech is finally getting interesting. I’m with stompandgo on the DJI Avinox—it might be the first system to actually solve the weight-to-power problem without making the bike feel like a 50lb boat in the corners. Johnny, if you're coming from a...

Man, I’m sorry — losing a bike like that is a gut punch, especially when it only takes that one time you break your routine. For your next one, the Velotric D2 at ~$2k sounds like a solid move, and buying through ABS is smart for support/service. I’d also go a bit overkill on security this...

baking + kayaking + surf fishing… that’s a solid lineup. I’m mostly into DIY/wrenching and outdoor trips.

You generally can’t swap a CAN controller onto a UART BBS02—the protocol (and usually the wiring/display system) won’t match, so it won’t communicate or run correctly.The “headlight” lead on newer UART controllers is normal and optional. Your older motor can still work fine with a newer UART...

Totally get it — riding year-round in Portland rain will wear on anything. If the motor still feels good, a backup bike + a fresh battery sounds like a solid “peace of mind” plan. And honestly, keeping the Trek for casual rides and letting the tandem be the fun project feels like the right call.

That battery dying at 48% is brutal—no wonder you're hesitant to buy another one. 20k miles is a massive achievement though. Do you feel like the motor is starting to sound rough, or is it just the high mileage making you nervous? Either way, that 42t chainring is definitely your enemy on those...

Yeah, I’d say it’s totally doable to go back to analog with your numbers. 120–155W cruising and a 450W punch for short hills is solid — the only thing that’ll make or break those 18% blocks is gearing. If you go 1x, I’d lean 30T/32T up front + 11–51/52 in the back. A 36T might be fine on normal...