Just to expand this topic: Motor might also have some cut out like behaviour if there is shift sensor installed and riding in rough terrain. I tossed my sensor few years ago and will never have one again. Just FYI for everyone not to think their motor is cutting out because bad connection in...
Magnet part can be separated from shaft. It has threads and is just screwd in. But part is made of aluminium around the magnet, and can be easily broken especially if tightened too much. (I broke one..). In some cases it has been hot glued, so it might need heating before it can be separated...
Ok, didn't know you had 2.
Is your bike working ok when you are standstill, lift rear wheel up and give it a throttle? Especially if it is cutting out only when you go over bumps, then you propably have bad connection at your battery terminal or power connection at the motor. I have had serious...
If motor is working in one bike but not in another, it seems that motor is ok at least, and the problem is somewhere in your UC Pro, maybe wiring? You should at least check that all the connectors are tightly connected and no wires crushed when you installed motor back. If your display don't...
At least before there has not been possibility to do the calibration with X1 tool. I live in Europe, and here only option has been to send it back to Innotrace and they calibrate it. But if you have true dealer version, then it might be possible. I don't even have X1 tool, and I don't really...
I can't really say what you should do. It is up to you only what you choose to do and are you willing to learn new stuff, or take the easy way out. Learn and fix it yourself, or buy a new one. Of cource you propably can only get motors with stock controllers as Innotrace is more no-trace atm...
Stock motor will more likely last longer than those with Innotrace/WW controllers - even with factory grease. It has not been designed to take the forces caused by tuned controllers that put up 2-3x the power. But even stock motor will wear out over time.
If your bike has original Bafang controller and you take motor apart too much, then you will have to calibrate motor with C961 display before riding your bike. You will notice if you need to do that, as motor stutters badly if it has lost the calibration (will run slowly but with more throttle...
I am not sure what exactly you wanted to be explained in a more better way? There was quite a lot of stuff in that message. but here's something
Pictures explained: new rotor next to REALLY bad one, new opened motor (never driven), gears deattached
Rotors are made of thin layered metal sheets...
You should also clean the rotor gear as much as you can, and look if it seems to be worn out or not. It wears out from the middle section where other gear is touching it. So you should be able to very clearly see if it has started to wear out or not.
I have opened many of these motors that have...
@rich c
@Slaphappygamer
Yes, I know that microswitch is in the lever. Levers are part of the brakes, thus I am going to fiddle the brakes. (Maybe using the term "brakes" was not the best here, but yea I know how to proceed from here. But thank you for your help.)
That sounds plausible, and would indeed cause both pedal assistance and throttle to not work. Brakes are brand new Magura MT5e so no dirt involved anywhere. I have never had any problem with even older MT5e sensors, but anything is possible.. If it happens again, I will try to fiddle with brakes...
I have M620 with Archon X1. I encountered weid loss of pedal assistance and also throttle stopped working. Power remained on, display was on and volts were in the area of 50-51V. Speedometer also kept working as I pedaled without assistance.
I managed to get everything back to normal just by...
Hmm.. Do I need, or do I want one 🤔
In a real life 30A BMS can handle for example Bafang M620 with 1000w continuous and 1500w peak power, even when that BMS is only good for 1440w continuous power when used with 48V battery (48V*30A=1440W). But is it sufficient for that use? Generally speaking...