Recent content by BEC111

I really don’t want to blow this discushion up, but the blurring of the difference between e-motos and e-bikes is the major cause of wide-spread crackdowns on e-bikes around the world. Pointing this out is currently important

Been there. Made a wrong turn on a group ride and turned a 40 mile route to a 60 mile trek. On electrical fumes by the en 😀

Thanks for the direction. I’ll follow you question suggestions on the next group ride as appropriate.

I’m glad I traded in my SL1 for an SL2 before the battery health had really declined. It was at 90%. After trade in my SL2 cost $2600 so using wishful thinking math I can make believe the new bike actually cost $1600.

Greg has an important story and he has once again acted. You can visit the site to learn more here: https://ebiketour.org/

Thanks for the science and engineering insights. Perhaps I wasn’t entirely clear about my friends’ bikes. They range from road bikes, endurance bikes, mountain bikes, cruisers, and hybrids. All of them are analog. I’ve noticed some of them struggling, and I’m curious about the etiquette of...

Yes. Proper use of gearing can insure the ability to pedal at that 8–9- rpm cadence.

The Washington Area Bicyclist Association (WABA) has published one of the best e-bike and mobility policy statements I’ve seen. You can read it here: https://waba.org/2026/06/11/lets-talk-about-ebikes-again/

You’re making the right point. I ride with someone who prefers to ride at the hardest gears, grinding it out. I think that’s silly, but whatever works for her is fine. Is it appropriate for me to make that point with her or to suggest to my other friend? And, as you imply, should I be suggesting...

Not the question I’m asking, but a good point. Remember that most people are uninterested or even able to comprehend the possibilities of changing the drivetrain on their bikes or even shopping for bikes with a drivetrain suitable for their riding conditions. I’m not a member of that group.

The responses to my OP have been illuminating. I have a corollary question. Am I correct in assuming that, like my Specialized Turbo Vado SL2, bikes and their drive trains are designed for best efficiency at certain gear ratios, cadences, and resulting speeds? For example, my SL2 efficient...

FWIW, though less colorful, the defa display screen on my Vado SL2 is the same.

This why I’ll be fiddling with saddle position in the next few weeks. (I believe the Brit’s call it fading?) Initial position is pretty good, but I know I need to make a few tweaks. Part of cycling being a hobby.

I think my SL2 turned itself on once, but I had been fiddling with charge cables and the handlebars so I’m not sure. I haven’t been into the garage much this week due to unsafe temperatures and wild fire smoke but on my two brief visits the bike was off. I’ll have to check it later this...

I’m puttering in the same playground with my new bike. I’m using the same suspension seat post that I had on the SL1 but the initial setup has the saddle at a much lower position according to the measurement marks on the seatpost. It’s been dangerously hot and now extremely dangerous Canadian...