"Mini Me?"

[kevinmccune]

despite being around 6'2" my legs are not that long and is there a best way to make "cruiser bike" feel a little bigger,had an 18" trek it was really awkward for me,I favor the old american cruiser style bike.

 

[stompandgo]

What do you mean by a "cruiser bike", and "feel a little bigger"? I'm not following you.

Are you looking for an upright, step-through, 700c electric bike that's styled after a beach cruiser? Look at the Electra Townie Go and tell me if that's it. I'm not fond of playing guessing games. Let us know what you want.

 

[kevinmccune]

What do you mean by a "cruiser bike", and "feel a little bigger"? I'm not following you.

Are you looking for an upright, step-through, 700c electric bike that's styled after a beach cruiser? Look at the Electra Townie Go and tell me if that's it. I'm not fond of playing guessing games. Let us know what you want.

Dang! you read my mind! everytime I go to the bike shop in Marlinton I start drooling over the "Townies" the proprietor has in stock,plus the fab colors,trouble is I cant afford His prices and do use the things for mixed usage,what I should have asked,any recommendations on frame modifications? (well I acquired a 28" wheel kit by mistake maybe i should convert a hybrid 700?) you do know the definition of cruise bike,right? the 26" bikes I have feel a little cramped.

 

[stompandgo]

I know my definition of a "cruise bike", but I don't know yours. That's the point. I need you to be more specific.

The Townie Go is a very affordable electric bike that I would put in the "cruiser" category, unless your local dealer is gouging. $1,699 for a name brand, dealer supported, high quality electric bike that should last years with good parts availability is priced right. The frame has rack bosses. Front baskets are also popular. It can be fitted with a range extender. If that's what you really want, I suggest that you save up for it, or ask your dealer about a layaway plan or financing.

So I gather you want to spend less, and want a 700c based hybrid, not a 26" large tire bike like the Townie. What does that mean to you? You said that you have a 28" (700c) wheel kit, you mean a hub motor wheel kit? That would mean a conversion, and that's not my department. You have a guy on here that does this for a living. Ask nicely, and maybe he can help you out.

 

[6zfshdb]

I'm also 6' 2" and when I was ebike shopping, I wanted a cruiser style with a more upright riding position. The selection was pretty slim back then, so I chose a bike with most of what I wanted and added a stem riser and different handlebars with a more comfortable back sweep. This idea greatly improves bike choices. You just have to watch the cables to make sure there is enough length to allow this.

 

[stompandgo]

The Townie Go was specifically designed for this kind of flat foot, bolt upright riding position, with no extenders needed.

 

[6zfshdb]

The Townie Go was specifically designed for this kind of flat foot, bolt upright riding position, with no extenders needed.

Actually, the Townie Go was one of the bikes I test rode in 2017. Among other things, it was a class 1 bike then, and I wanted a throttle. I see the newer 7D version is a class 2 but it wasn't available back then. Since I'm a cobbler, I also didn't like the proprietary Trek (Electra) electrical system. I have to admit, otherwise, it was a nice bike.

 

[kevinmccune]

I know my definition of a "cruise bike", but I don't know yours. That's the point. I need you to be more specific.

The Townie Go is a very affordable electric bike that I would put in the "cruiser" category, unless your local dealer is gouging. $1,699 for a name brand, dealer supported, high quality electric bike that should last years with good parts availability is priced right. The frame has rack bosses. Front baskets are also popular. It can be fitted with a range extender. If that's what you really want, I suggest that you save up for it, or ask your dealer about a layaway plan or financing.

So I gather you want to spend less, and want a 700c based hybrid, not a 26" large tire bike like the Townie. What does that mean to you? You said that you have a 28" (700c) wheel kit, you mean a hub motor wheel kit? That would mean a conversion, and that's not my department. You have a guy on here that does this for a living. Ask nicely, and maybe he can help you out.

looked at them this morning when I was having my shifter fixed a class2-500 watt townie( with racks and such around$2100,if I cant use the 28" kit on my reverse trike,I may just go to Wally world and get a 700c to convert.

 

[mikee94]

despite being around 6'2" my legs are not that long and is there a best way to make "cruiser bike" feel a little bigger,had an 18" trek it was really awkward for me,I favor the old american cruiser style bike.

Hi, look for a 26" or 27.5" wheel cruiser with a long, low frame, then you can raise the saddle, use a longer seatpost if needed and you can also try 165 mm cranks

 

[PedalUma]

I have converted several Marin Stinson 2 bikes with torque sensor mid-drives. The bike is a modern take on the classic beach cruiser. It is foot forward, comfortable, with a long wheelbase, and has a wide range of gears. Stinson is a popular beach north of the Golden Gate. This is a cruiser meant to also take hills. They are about $750 these days. It has wide tires on 750b wheels and has simple mechanical disc brakes on a modern aluminum frame. Just make sure the bottom of the seatpost is well below the top tube. The minimum insertion line does not account for that. The ride is similar to the Specialized Roll. It is setup to get front and rear racks and fenders.

 

[Brendon@OEB]

I have converted several Marin Stinson 2 bikes with torque sensor mid-drives. The bike is a modern take on the classic beach cruiser. It is foot forward, comfortable, with a long wheelbase, and has a wide range of gears. Stinson is a popular beach north of the Golden Gate. This is a cruiser meant to also take hills. They are about $750 these days. It has wide tires on 750b wheels and has simple mechanical disc brakes on a modern aluminum frame. Just make sure the bottom of the seatpost is well below the top tube. The minimum insertion line does not account for that. The ride is similar to the Specialized Roll. It is setup to get front and rear racks and fenders.

View attachment 216761

You sure that seatpost isn't past it's max extension?

 

[PedalUma]

You sure that seatpost isn't past it's max extension?

I broke the frame! I learn best when I screw up. It was at the minimum insertion point mark on the post, but that was above the down tube. It suddenly got all spongy, starting to wobble, then cracked. Marin Bicycles has a huge warehouse in my town, Petaluma. It is filled with frames of all sizes and models back to 1986. They offer a full lifetime warranty on all their frames. I simply took off the motor system and reinstalled the original parts. The dealer photographed it and I got a new frame the next week. Then it was a matter of moving the components, adding a longer, thicker post, and reinstalling the through frame conversion. I rode it for another year then put it back to the original parts and sold it to a barista, Marco, who loves it. The motor system went to another bike. Here is a step-thru version. Yes, the seatpost is way too high at the minimum insertion mark. I have long legs.
The owner was sold a $16500 bike that could not take her hill. She was promised it would. She had to walk it 2 miles uphill. I got her a full refund and she purchased this bike for $650 at the time, across the street. I converted it and it climbs anything, just fine. The bar is more backswept than the original. See any ugly wires or connectors? Not using any zip ties on a conversion is like skinny dipping. To see the thread, search for Custom in the title, and by user PedalUma, to see a full build process.

 

[kevinmccune]

I have converted several Marin Stinson 2 bikes with torque sensor mid-drives. The bike is a modern take on the classic beach cruiser. It is foot forward, comfortable, with a long wheelbase, and has a wide range of gears. Stinson is a popular beach north of the Golden Gate. This is a cruiser meant to also take hills. They are about $750 these days. It has wide tires on 750b wheels and has simple mechanical disc brakes on a modern aluminum frame. Just make sure the bottom of the seatpost is well below the top tube. The minimum insertion line does not account for that. The ride is similar to the Specialized Roll. It is setup to get front and rear racks and fenders.

View attachment 216761

my kind of bike,steel frame?

 

[kevinmccune]

I broke the frame! I learn best when I screw up. It was at the minimum insertion point mark on the post, but that was above the down tube. It suddenly got all spongy, starting to wobble, then cracked. Marin Bicycles has a huge warehouse in my town, Petaluma. It is filled with frames of all sizes and models back to 1986. They offer a full lifetime warranty on all their frames. I simply took off the motor system and reinstalled the original parts. The dealer photographed it and I got a new frame the next week. Then it was a matter of moving the components, adding a longer, thicker post, and reinstalling the through frame conversion. I rode it for another year then put it back to the original parts and sold it to a barista, Marco, who loves it. The motor system went to another bike. Here is a step-thru version. Yes, the seatpost is way too high at the minimum insertion mark. I have long legs.
The owner was sold a $16500 bike that could not take her hill. She was promised it would. She had to walk it 2 miles uphill. I got her a full refund and she purchased this bike for $650 at the time, across the street. I converted it and it climbs anything, just fine. The bar is more backswept than the original. See any ugly wires or connectors? Not using any zip ties on a conversion is like skinny dipping. To see the thread, search for Custom in the title, and by user PedalUma, to see a full build process.

View attachment 216776

have to say I really like it,my thing is long wheelbase though.cause when I am chugging up the steep hill to home base the front end gets very light.

 

[PedalUma]

my kind of bike,steel frame?

Those are lightweight aluminum bikes from Marin. I also did a bunch of similar ones from Giant that are no longer made but demo bikes are still with retailers at steep discounts. Those are call Momentum Vida. They came in low-step and mid-step. Some are still out there for about $550.

 

[Brendon@OEB]

I broke the frame! I learn best when I screw up. It was at the minimum insertion point mark on the post, but that was above the down tube. It suddenly got all spongy, starting to wobble, then cracked. Marin Bicycles has a huge warehouse in my town, Petaluma. It is filled with frames of all sizes and models back to 1986. They offer a full lifetime warranty on all their frames. I simply took off the motor system and reinstalled the original parts. The dealer photographed it and I got a new frame the next week. Then it was a matter of moving the components, adding a longer, thicker post, and reinstalling the through frame conversion. I rode it for another year then put it back to the original parts and sold it to a barista, Marco, who loves it. The motor system went to another bike. Here is a step-thru version. Yes, the seatpost is way too high at the minimum insertion mark. I have long legs.
The owner was sold a $16500 bike that could not take her hill. She was promised it would. She had to walk it 2 miles uphill. I got her a full refund and she purchased this bike for $650 at the time, across the street. I converted it and it climbs anything, just fine. The bar is more backswept than the original. See any ugly wires or connectors? Not using any zip ties on a conversion is like skinny dipping. To see the thread, search for Custom in the title, and by user PedalUma, to see a full build process.

View attachment 216776

You build bikes and broke a frame because you ran the seatpost way past it's min insertion?

Not a good look. Glad you learned from the mistake but the part literally has that information printed/etched on it for that exact reason...

 

[PedalUma]

You build bikes and broke a frame because you ran the seatpost way past it's min insertion?

Not a good look. Glad you learned from the mistake but the part literally has that information printed/etched on it for that exact reason...

I had it below the minimum insertion line on the original factory post. The problem was because the line was off because of the position of the top tube on that particular frame. Marin admitted the oversight and gave me a new frame. I then used a much longer post.