Is there a strength between the Turbo Vado 5.0 step through and standard?

[DSGamer]

I’m a heavier cyclist who’s switching up from a Tern to a Specialized. I’m pretty settled on the Turbo Vado 5.0, because it has geometry more favorable to unloading pressure from my knee. Something I’m curious about, though, is the step through model. I’m thinking of getting that model, but I’m unsure what major differences there are between the step through and standard frame. I was surprised to see the step through in an XL size. Usually bike manufacturers cut step throughs off at L, 53cm, etc. because they assume it’s the “girls” bike or whatever. I personally don’t care and like the idea of a step through, so I’m stoked about an XL step through. I’m just curious if there are any other trade-offs. Is it less strong, etc.

 

[Stefan Mikes]

I do not think a good step-through is any weaker than the diamond frame. All my e-bikes until Vado SL (including Vado 5.0) have been ST, I ride a lot and am not a lightweight person. I also carry a lot of stuff in the panniers.

 

[mschwett]

the tradeoff is that to achieve a certain strength / stiffness, the frame has to be heavier because of the bending connections at the intersection of the seat tube and downtube. in the traditional frame the top tube goes into tension, which can resist those forces with much less material.

i have no doubt that specialized has designed it’s ST frames for whatever forces they’ll see with a rider within the weight limit, so it’s really just a matter of weight and possibly some subtle differences in handling. get whichever one suits you best!

 

[Stefan Mikes]

the tradeoff is that to achieve a certain strength / stiffness, the frame has to be heavier because of the bending connections at the intersection of the seat tube and downtube. in the traditional frame the top tube goes into tension, which can resist those forces with much less material.

i have no doubt that specialized has designed it’s ST frames for whatever forces they’ll see with a rider within the weight limit, so it’s really just a matter of weight and possibly some subtle differences in handling. get whichever one suits you best!

I might have some doubts if the Vado were a Low-Step but it is a Step-Through, with a very thick bottom "tube" (because of the battery) and a big top tube welded somewhere to the seat-post below the rear triangle attachment point. The frame is properly stiff. My Vado is Type Approved as a moped, and it is an ST.

 

[DanInStPete]

A step-through design is inherently weaker. I‘m 6’4, 225 lbs. and I definitely wouldn’t buy one. There have been step-throughs that start shaking when going fast downhill. Not saying the Specialized would, at least the top tube connects significantly above the motor. But personally I’d probably be thinking about it if I were riding it downhill fast…

Are the weight limits the same for each frame?

 

[Stefan Mikes]

Are the weight limits the same for each frame?

They are the same.

A step-through design is inherently weaker.

Anecdotal.

I‘m 6’4, 225 lbs. and I definitely wouldn’t buy one.

You seem not to have owned an ST. I weighed 236 lbs when I bought my first ST e-bike.

But personally I’d probably be thinking about it if I were riding it downhill fast…

You would if you owned a Vado ST but you have never owned it. Is the downhill speed of 40.3 mph too slow for you?

Specialized know how to design their bikes.

 

[mschwett]

A step-through design is inherently weaker. I‘m 6’4, 225 lbs. and I definitely wouldn’t buy one. There have been step-throughs that start shaking when going fast downhill. Not saying the Specialized would, at least the top tube connects significantly above the motor. But personally I’d probably be thinking about it if I were riding it downhill fast…

Are the weight limits the same for each frame?

yep, 300lb for any make or trim of Vado. the vado SLs vary based on the wheels and/or other components, but not by frame type.

i don’t think anyone disagrees that the step through is inherently less efficient, but it can be made strong and stiff enough for the purpose with enough material. it will be slightly heavier. not an issue for a Vado really.

 

[mschwett]

Specialized know how to design their bikes.

this is the bottom line. the bikes are engineered to resist the loads they’ll see in the specified use within the weight limit. do note that the Vado (and most other specialized e bikes) are designed for what they call “condition 2,” which includes improved trails but not any kind of off road riding where the wheels leave the ground

 

[Stefan Mikes]

and most other specialized e bikes

Your general remark is correct. "Most other" is not.

• Tero is designed for Condition 3 (groomed trails)
• Levo and Kenevo are the Condition 4 e-bikes (All Mountain = technical trails)

 

[DanInStPete]

Anecdotal

Not anecdotal. Triangles are stronger, and a step through will twist more than a high step even if made to the same strength with heavier tubing.

I concur that the low-step Vado would be fine and safe for the rider. I personally prefer the superior structural integrity of a diamond frame, but TEHO

 

[Stefan Mikes]

The OP's question was whether the ST Vado were less strong than the High-Step. The practical answer is: both are equally strong. Both are oversized for structural strength. Compare the net weight of either of the Vados to a traditional bike: Both are very heavy.
You should not express opinions without either experience or hard data.

 

[Stefan Mikes]

What is TEHO?

To Each His Own.

Low Step and Step Thru are same to me.

They are totally different. Low Step has no top tube.

 

[Onimaru]

I prefer the standard over step through because I prefer being able to get off saddle and not have a bottle cage in my groin. Either are fine for the terrain the Vado is designed for.

 

[DSGamer]

I prefer the standard over step through because I prefer being able to get off saddle and not have a bottle cage in my groin. Either are fine for the terrain the Vado is designed for.

Part of the reason for my question is that I’m over the weight limit, so definitely pushing it. I usually have my back wheel rebuilt by hand when buying a new bike. Everything works out fine from there. I am a little antsy about frame flexion, though, so I’ll consider that.

 

[DSGamer]

One other question since I’m asking. Should I consider the Vado 4 or 5?

I’m inclined to buy the 4, since I climb more than anything and the gearing seems favorable to that, but one of the folks at the LBS said he wouldn’t recommended riding a bike like the Vado 4 with only 2 piston brakes.

Is this a real concern? I previously had a Tern and before that a Verve+ 3 and I don’t think either had 4 piston brakes and it felt fine.

 

[Stefan Mikes]

One other question since I’m asking. Should I consider the Vado 4 or 5?

I’m inclined to buy the 4, since I climb more than anything and the gearing seems favorable to that, but one of the folks at the LBS said he wouldn’t recommended riding a bike like the Vado 4 with only 2 piston brakes.

Is this a real concern? I previously had a Tern and before that a Verve+ 3 and I don’t think either had 4 piston brakes and it felt fine.

I strongly recommend the 5. The strongest motor, excellent gearing, adequate brakes, air spring Rock Shox fork.
Depending on your actual ascent grades, you might consider going with the replacement of the 48T chainring (meant for achieving high speed) with a smaller one, even a 38T. My Vado came with the 48T chainring. I'm swapping it for a 38T for real mountain rides, and go back to a 42T in the plains. I need acceleration and climbing capability far more than the top speed!

 

[TrevorB]

One other question since I’m asking. Should I consider the Vado 4 or 5?

I’m inclined to buy the 4, since I climb more than anything and the gearing seems favorable to that, but one of the folks at the LBS said he wouldn’t recommended riding a bike like the Vado 4 with only 2 piston brakes.

Is this a real concern? I previously had a Tern and before that a Verve+ 3 and I don’t think either had 4 piston brakes and it felt fine.

Brakes aside, 5.0 gives you powerful motor 70vs90nm, larger battery 500vs 710wh. Both important things for heavier rider as you will use more power on climbs than lighter rider. Just as importantly coil vs 80mm airfork. Better quality air fork can be tuned for rider's weight while coil fork has coils which are typically chosen for riders of medium weight.

You may want double check specs on bike you buy as I was looking at market.

 

[Onimaru]

Part of the reason for my question is that I’m over the weight limit, so definitely pushing it. I usually have my back wheel rebuilt by hand when buying a new bike. Everything works out fine from there. I am a little antsy about frame flexion, though, so I’ll consider that.

Are you over 300 lbs? While it could be fine, that’s the structural weight limit Specialized rates it to. I would look at some of the bikes rated for larger folks if you were.

If you’re above 250 but below 300, you’d probably be ok but don’t exceed 300 with cargo.

If you are cresting 300 and want a full featured ebike, the only other suggestion I have is Riese and Müller. They may be expensive, but they use good components and at least some of their bikes (don’t remember which specifically) are rated to 350 lbs.

Edit - autocorrect typo

 

[kahn]

You were stoked on the step thru.
Pardon my bad manners. I still refer to them as girls bike.
Just picked a bike already.

They would also be suitable bikes for guys who wear KILTS!!!!

 

[DSGamer]

Are you over 300 lbs? While it could be fine, that’s the structural weight limit Specialized rates it to. I would look at some of the bikes rated for larger folks if you were.

If you’re above 250 but below 300, you’d probably be ok but don’t exceed 300 with cargo.

If you are cresting 300 and want a full featured ebike, the only other suggestion I have is Riese and Müller. They may be expensive, but they use good components and at least some of their bikes (don’t remember which specifically) are rated to 350 lbs.

Edit - autocorrect typo

I am. In my experience the wheel is the most important part along with maybe the suspension fork.

I started bike commuting in 2000 at 400lbs and lost 170lbs in about a year and a half on an entry level Trek mountain bike that definitely wasn’t rated for my weight. I then spent the next 8 years riding a Trek 1000 road bike. Once again a hand-built wheel did the trick, even though I was never below 250 (I’m legitimately just a big guy that will never be that light, even when I’m eating perfect and cycling 35 miles a day) - the bike was great for me.

Unfortunately I was hit by a car a little over 10 years ago and that messed me up for quite a while. When I could finally get back on the bike regularly and not worry about getting hit, I’d gained some weight and started riding eBikes. Same drill. A well-built wheel and I don’t really have trouble. I didn’t have any trouble on my Trek Verve+ 3 (which I think has 2 piston brakes) and I don’t anticipate having trouble on the Vado once I get a wheel built.

I was just surprised by how insistent the salesperson was about the 4 piston brakes. My other bike is a Brompton with rim brakes. Maybe not advisable, but it can be done. And it’s not like I’m off-roading. I’m just running errands and getting around town.

All that said, since I’m starting fresh this time (I just sold my Tern) I may take this opportunity to spring for the lost stable and best braking Vado model I can (5.0, standard frame, non-SL), just to hedge my bets.

I’ve looked at the Riese and Mueller bikes, but it’s not clear to me what the geometry on the bikes is and I am trying to find a specific fit that the Vado meets.