I have a torque wrench that maxes out at 12 nm. Just wanted to see if it were necessary to buy a new wrench for this one bolt. Bike shops told me they don’t bother, but idk.You should always have a torque wrench for working on a bike. As @Tars Tarkas says its not for grunt work, but for making final adjustments. Almost everything has a torque spec on a bike, even if its a simple water bottle boss that has nothing more than the general torque spec that goes with a stainless M5 socket. You'd be surprised how low the torque number is to securely tighten but not stretch the threads on an M5 or an M6 bolt, and its just as important to use a torque wrench to avoid overtightening as it is to get something properly tight.
For a bike, a small 1/4" drive torque wrench that maxes out at about 10 Nm will do every job on the bike except the axle and the crankarms (the latter being a big deal to pay attention to as they often loosen).
Larger wrench it is. Thanks guys, this has been very informative.You're going to need another wrench. Your cone wrenches are for hub cones, not for axle nuts. I'm going to go out on a limb and say that most people probably don't use a torque wrench on their axle nuts, but there's a saying that torque wrenches are for amateurs -- pros don't need them for jobs like this. So if you have no idea how to feel about the right tightness for your axle nut, get a torque wrench.
I completely agree with @m_robertson that everyone who works on bikes should have a torque wrench though. If the one you have only goes to 12 nm, you need a bigger one for this job, but more than that, you need a set of sockets and a ratchet. If this is the only nut you're ever going to deal with, you can get a dedicated 15 mm wrench that will work. but once you have a socket set you will probably find a million other things you can do with it.
Yeah sure, but the OP's photo shows an Enviolo hub with belt drive, which means just loosening the axle bolt may not be enough by itself to remove the wheel. For a short time I had a bike with such a hub, and my recollection is that I also had to loosen the two hex bolts visible in that photo to be able to slide the wheel forward enough to get the wheel off and on properly. Which means you're re-tensioning the belt in the field.The problem with Knipex pliers or cone wrenches, or adjustable wrenches is getting them around the nut. (Look at the picture in the original post.) Even if you could get them on the nut there probably won't be enough room to turn them at all.
Good points, but not really relevant to how or what tool to use to loosen the axle nut. Maybe very important to how or even whether to try to remove the rear wheel in the field. @AvelancheRun didn't ask about that, although it was almost certainly implied, I agree.Yeah sure, but the OP's photo shows an Enviolo hub with belt drive, which means just loosening the axle bolt may not be enough by itself to remove the wheel. For a short time I had a bike with such a hub, and my recollection is that I also had to loosen the two hex bolts visible in that photo to be able to slide the wheel forward enough to get the wheel off and on properly. Which means you're re-tensioning the belt in the field.
But can it core a apple?
Interesting question, so I Googled it. Google says a 1/4" drive is good for about 30 foot pounds, so 41 Nm, so, if you take Google at it's word, maybe it would work, but barely. That's assuming the nut wasn't over torqued. You might be stronger than the users Google has in mind, and you could use a cheater bar if you had one, but a 3/8" drive might be a safer bet.Been 25+ years since I worked in bikes, but I'm with the socket wrench brigade on this one.
Still, would prefer to carry something smaller and lighter than a typical 3/8" drive for the wrench itself. Wondering if a typical quality 1/4" drive would be strong enough to loosen a typical balky axle nut? Not worried about the sockets.