Wiring Diagram Vado SL ?

I cannot understand why you would like to get rid of a vital ride safety feature...
Especially in the densely populated United Kingdom with lots of hedgerows.

The battery draw for Vado SL lighting is symbolic.
 
I always wear a helmet and I use lights anytime I am riding but that wasn't the question.

The Rider Workbook for the 2024 Turbo Creo 2 has a section on lights starting at page 31 and includes a wiring diagram. The systems are essentially identical to the Vado SL/Creo SL and eliminates some of the guesswork of what lights work with the system. Creo do not come with lights so they list compatible lights in addition to the two OEM Lezyne that are used on Vado SL models. The OEM lights are designed to be mounted upside down so the StVZO light cutoff pattern works properly. A rated front/rear light with compatible mount: 12 V only, 8 W/650 mA max (total). They also have the warning Running unrated lights can cause permanent damage to the e-bike system.


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if you want the lights off on a permanent basis you can simply unplug them. To do this, unscrew the control unit and lift it out of the cross-bar. You will see a cable coming from the front which joins another cable, also coming from the front, at an angle, before the combined cables are plugged into the tcu. Unplug the first cable and the lights are off!

A nuisance if you want to turn them on and off regularly, I admit.

This tip was given to me by my local shop where we cycle in Spain, so I was able to ask whether it did any harm, and the answer was no. It also significantly increases range, as the lights seem to draw around 4% of the battery per hour (Calculations by Stefan - I’ll add a link to that conversation if I can see how to do it).

we always use rechargeable, flashing lights front and back - much better in our view.
 
Got it sorted in the end. Very small rocker switch off ebay which is mounted on the front light bracket and some black 22 awg wire back to the control panel. All works fine and no permanent mods, so can be "as factory" if needed for warranty.
 
This tip was given to me by my local shop where we cycle in Spain, so I was able to ask whether it did any harm, and the answer was no. It also significantly increases range, as the lights seem to draw around 4% of the battery per hour (Calculations by Stefan - I’ll add a link to that conversation if I can see how to do it).
I need to understand better how to unplug the lights. Will give the TCU a closer look! (Could you perhaps take the TCU out, take a picture and show by an arrow which cable to disconnect?)

I will be in the need of the full battery charge during my May E-Sprint gravel race. As I normally do not mind, the E-Sprint rules read "a manufactured e-bike, a single battery, no recharging". I'm sure I will convince the organizer the main SL battery + a single SL Range Extender form a "single battery set" but cannot afford wasting the battery charge for lighting during an 80 km, +1000 m, climbs up to 16% race!
 
They are just simple small spade connectors which just unplug under the TCU.

There are four spade sets relating to the lights (two for the front and two for the rear). If you just want to disconnect then unplug one of each and just some insulating tape to prevent any shorting. You can test which one is which by simply unplugging and seeing which light goes out !!
 
I need to understand better how to unplug the lights. Will give the TCU a closer look! (Could you perhaps take the TCU out, take a picture and show by an arrow which cable to disconnect?)

I will be in the need of the full battery charge during my May E-Sprint gravel race. As I normally do not mind, the E-Sprint rules read "a manufactured e-bike, a single battery, no recharging". I'm sure I will convince the organizer the main SL battery + a single SL Range Extender form a "single battery set" but cannot afford wasting the battery charge for lighting during an 80 km, +1000 m, climbs up to 16% race!
Will do - once the grandchildren leave!
 
Sorry for the delay, and my amateurish photos!

the plug with the green bits on is the lighting power supply. It will be connected in between one of the other two all-black cable connectors, so one will be much longer, and will have a “Y” shaped connection.

You just pull the longer plug apart, disconnecting the plug with green bits on, then re-join the other two parts, taking care to align the notch/slot locators. The lights will now be completely disconnected.
 

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Stefan,
More info and better photos!
Plugs are coloured, so you can happily separate them and reconnect them (unless colour-blind of course!).
Please see photos.
Regards
Steve
 

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