Whoa...Check out my battery gauge after my first 9 mile commute!
- Thread starter FMG III
- Start date
hurricane56
Active Member
What size battery are you running? Your efficiency puts me to shame, I rode 16.7 miles into work today and managed to use 36/wh to the mile.
FMG III
Member
It's the stock 48v 12.8ah battery. Honestly I am kind of amazed (on the positive side of course). I expected it to go down at least to 80% if not just a tad lower. My commute involves 3 somewhat significant hills. After each hill I was looking at the meter expecting it to go down. Never did. I did pop into PAS 2 on all of the hills. Eliminated the psychological pedaling/hill stress completely.
...and the battery gauge does work. Over the weekend I rode until the battery got to 30%. That was from the battery at around 80% to begin with. This is my first ride on a full charge...
...and the battery gauge does work. Over the weekend I rode until the battery got to 30%. That was from the battery at around 80% to begin with. This is my first ride on a full charge...
hurricane56
Active Member
Cool, the one thing I appreciate about the Juiced Bike display is the fuel gauge doesn't yo-yo due to the voltage sag when the motor is running hard. I had a Sondors with display and everytime the throttle activated, the battery indicator would go to almost empty and back up again.
FYI, as an original Cross Current owner I can tell you the battery bars are not very accurate. It’s just showing static battery pack voltage and the number of bars are a pretty optimistic representation of the charge state IME. I would use the static pack voltage and refer to table 4 in the following link to estimate the charge remaining.
http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/how_to_prolong_lithium_based_batteries
http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/how_to_prolong_lithium_based_batteries
Yeah, the bike does sip energy at the lower power settings. I don’t think most people appreciate how much battery power it takes to cruise at ~28mph. Going from 20mph to 28mph requires like double the power. And in eco or level 1 you’re probably pulling less than 5 amps. My problem is that I find the bike way funner to ride in the top two assist levels so I tend to burn through my 17.4Ah battery pretty fast.
Tora Harris
Well-Known Member
The bars on the LCD display are much better at showing the approximate capacity of the battery.
Under load the voltage does fluctuate naturally and we show you the voltage on the main screen. The bars them selves have some code running in the background to compensate for the current draw and shape of the pack’s discharge curve.
The older LED type display had some software compensation, but the LCD on the CCS is quite good now. The real way measure the capacity is far more complicated involving transferring data from the BMS to the controller. That kind of system is beyond the scope of what we are trying to achieve for now.
Another thing we added is the “Advanced Mode” so you can see how many Ah you pull from the pack. Almost no manufacturer wants you to know how many Ah is getting pulled from the pack, but we put it there for advanced users who are more nosy.
If you reset the trip you will also reset the Ah (and Wh counters) Keep in mind that this is not a laboratory grade measuring device, but we tested it against a Cycle Analyst and it is decently accurate.
Our assist system in lower setting sips the battery energy and you can go shockingly far if you can stand to keep the speeds lower. This is possible because we use the precision torque sensor and high resolution cadence sensor to measure your leg power output.
We can ramp the motor’s power up and down to match your pedal force and intentions in real time. If you pedal lighter we can back the motor off, if you need to change speeds and pedal harder, we can ramp up the motor for just that brief moment.
The more basic cadence-only setups just flick the motor on at one speed when you turn the crank. That brief period of acceleration in the starts can be inefficient when not coordinated with your leg effort. If you pedal faster than the motor is spinning, your pedal force is absorbed by the motor and your speed will not change much. If you pedal slower than the motor is spinning, you might as well just take the chain off and use the throttle. In all those cases, it is not very efficient with just cadence sensor setup if you plan to do some pedaling, however we do have the option to turn the torque sensor off and just use the bike in cadence-only mode.
Things change dramatically when you want to go faster. The wind becomes a big effect and you need a lot more power to go every mph faster once you past like 25 mph. Just moving your head down a few inches to reduce some frontal could save a few hundred watts.
Under load the voltage does fluctuate naturally and we show you the voltage on the main screen. The bars them selves have some code running in the background to compensate for the current draw and shape of the pack’s discharge curve.
The older LED type display had some software compensation, but the LCD on the CCS is quite good now. The real way measure the capacity is far more complicated involving transferring data from the BMS to the controller. That kind of system is beyond the scope of what we are trying to achieve for now.
Another thing we added is the “Advanced Mode” so you can see how many Ah you pull from the pack. Almost no manufacturer wants you to know how many Ah is getting pulled from the pack, but we put it there for advanced users who are more nosy.
If you reset the trip you will also reset the Ah (and Wh counters) Keep in mind that this is not a laboratory grade measuring device, but we tested it against a Cycle Analyst and it is decently accurate.
Our assist system in lower setting sips the battery energy and you can go shockingly far if you can stand to keep the speeds lower. This is possible because we use the precision torque sensor and high resolution cadence sensor to measure your leg power output.
We can ramp the motor’s power up and down to match your pedal force and intentions in real time. If you pedal lighter we can back the motor off, if you need to change speeds and pedal harder, we can ramp up the motor for just that brief moment.
The more basic cadence-only setups just flick the motor on at one speed when you turn the crank. That brief period of acceleration in the starts can be inefficient when not coordinated with your leg effort. If you pedal faster than the motor is spinning, your pedal force is absorbed by the motor and your speed will not change much. If you pedal slower than the motor is spinning, you might as well just take the chain off and use the throttle. In all those cases, it is not very efficient with just cadence sensor setup if you plan to do some pedaling, however we do have the option to turn the torque sensor off and just use the bike in cadence-only mode.
Things change dramatically when you want to go faster. The wind becomes a big effect and you need a lot more power to go every mph faster once you past like 25 mph. Just moving your head down a few inches to reduce some frontal could save a few hundred watts.
Reid
Well-Known Member
Thank you, Tora!
Lou Costello: With ebikes, Watt-hours count!
Bud Abbott: Which hours?
Lou: Watt-hours.
Bud: What?
Lou: Yes!
Bud: Yes, what?
Lou: Exactly!
Bud: Whoa.
Lou: Check out my battery gauge,
But seriously, Wh-at 20-per sure rack up, fast.
Ford's Model T was engineered for a design center speed of 20mph (that's where it not coincidentally develops its greatest engine torque); twenty miles per hour was all most roads were good for at their best back then, and twenty was and is the point where wind resistance exacts a costly, exponentially increasing power toll on T and Tora vehicles, alike.
Lou Costello: With ebikes, Watt-hours count!
Bud Abbott: Which hours?
Lou: Watt-hours.
Bud: What?
Lou: Yes!
Bud: Yes, what?
Lou: Exactly!
Bud: Whoa.
Lou: Check out my battery gauge,
But seriously, Wh-at 20-per sure rack up, fast.
Ford's Model T was engineered for a design center speed of 20mph (that's where it not coincidentally develops its greatest engine torque); twenty miles per hour was all most roads were good for at their best back then, and twenty was and is the point where wind resistance exacts a costly, exponentially increasing power toll on T and Tora vehicles, alike.
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Rob02150
Active Member
I rode my original crosscurrent every day from June of 2016 to April of 2017 in Denver. To commute from work and home (12 miles round trip daily). Never had any fears of it being stolen off a rack, which I left it on plenty of times. I would just take the battery off, especially during cold days. I also drove through a few nasty snow storms, with no issues. Be careful on the Cherry Creek Trail though. I was once flying down the trail and got waved down by an officer and told to slow down. I guess they watch lol.
Yeah my commute would mostly be in the cherry creek trail or the light rail and roads. Thanks for the comments
Why did you stop ?
Rob02150
Active Member
I stopped because he started walking right in front of me.
Sorry I mean why did you stop riding in 2017
Rob02150
Active Member
Oh. I moved to Florida In 2017
FMG III
Member
Hi,
My commute takes me through Cherry Creek State Park, so by proxy part of my commute is on the Cherry Creek Trail. I commute from just east of the state park into the Tech Center. It's 16 miles round trip. I've done three commutes on the Cross Current S and it's absolutely perfect and it's easily up to the task. I have the stock battery, I do the commute on one charge, and by the time I get home I have 3/4 of my battery left. My nightly charge time is about 2 hours. I know I probably shouldn't re-charge to full like that, but for now I'm just trying to get into a routine and that may change.
I am pretty paranoid about bike theft, since Denver / Boulder is kind of a hot-bed for bike thieves, especially mountain bikes. I do lock my bike at times on a rack but never leave the battery alone. I always have it with me whenever I make a stop. As far as leaving my bike for work, my employer allows me to bring the bike into the office.
I have had no trouble riding on the bike paths. I keep my speed between 15 and 20 miles an hour and never really go above that speed. No need to. Heck I'm riding through a wonderful state park. No need to rush. Road bikers are flying by me all the time so I feel no anxiety over having an ebike. Also, Colorado state overall allows ebikes on bike paths (except singletrack), with the caveat of municipalities being able to override that as they see fit. I'm really not sure how long that will last because who can really tell what municipality you're in when you're on the path, so I don't pay much attention. The cool thing about the Cross Current S is I think it looks rather stealthy and you almost have to look twice to see that it's a pedelec.
I think you're really going to enjoy the Cross Current S with the extended battery. It will be worth the wait. The more I ride the bike, the better it feels and the more I learn what it can handle in terms of speed, handling, etc. It gets more fun each time I take it out. I'm hooked now. Will probably have an ebike for life...
My commute takes me through Cherry Creek State Park, so by proxy part of my commute is on the Cherry Creek Trail. I commute from just east of the state park into the Tech Center. It's 16 miles round trip. I've done three commutes on the Cross Current S and it's absolutely perfect and it's easily up to the task. I have the stock battery, I do the commute on one charge, and by the time I get home I have 3/4 of my battery left. My nightly charge time is about 2 hours. I know I probably shouldn't re-charge to full like that, but for now I'm just trying to get into a routine and that may change.
I am pretty paranoid about bike theft, since Denver / Boulder is kind of a hot-bed for bike thieves, especially mountain bikes. I do lock my bike at times on a rack but never leave the battery alone. I always have it with me whenever I make a stop. As far as leaving my bike for work, my employer allows me to bring the bike into the office.
I have had no trouble riding on the bike paths. I keep my speed between 15 and 20 miles an hour and never really go above that speed. No need to. Heck I'm riding through a wonderful state park. No need to rush. Road bikers are flying by me all the time so I feel no anxiety over having an ebike. Also, Colorado state overall allows ebikes on bike paths (except singletrack), with the caveat of municipalities being able to override that as they see fit. I'm really not sure how long that will last because who can really tell what municipality you're in when you're on the path, so I don't pay much attention. The cool thing about the Cross Current S is I think it looks rather stealthy and you almost have to look twice to see that it's a pedelec.
I think you're really going to enjoy the Cross Current S with the extended battery. It will be worth the wait. The more I ride the bike, the better it feels and the more I learn what it can handle in terms of speed, handling, etc. It gets more fun each time I take it out. I'm hooked now. Will probably have an ebike for life...
Thanks for the info! Looks like our commute is the same so perhaps I shall see you in the trail. I am coming from Cap Hill to the tech center
FMG III
Member
@karmap Nice! Hey you're really going to love the bike. I'm sure of it. Juiced has really packed a lot of value with associated quality in the Cross Current S. I've been researching and demo'ing ebikes for the past year or so and the Cross Current S hits such a sweet spot in terms of execution and delivery. Have fun!
Kurt in CT
Active Member
Haven't seen that in years. Thanks Reid!
