Tubeless Conversion on both RCS Started

IOUZIP

Active Member
Region
USA
I wanted to start a thread on my conversion of the RCS to tubeless.

I have had Zero flats since riding the RCS and the Kenda Krusade Sport tires with innertubes over the last 2 years. I did have the Tuffy liners inside on both bikes.

The first RCS to get converted to tubeless is mine which I ride on everything from Road to Beach to Green to Black Diamond trails. This one is getting the Maxxis Minion FBF EXO/TR 120 TPI and FBR EXO/TR 120 TPI 26x4.00 tires.
The second RCS to get converted to tubeless is my wife's which she uses for Road to Beach to Green to Blue trails. This one is getting Schwalbe Jumbo Jim Super Ground Addix Speedgrip 120 (11600715.02) 26x4.00 tires.

Other parts I am using are all totaling about $100:
Stan's Valve Stems 32mm (Schrader)
Stan's Tire Sealant
Sun Rim Tape 78mm wide
Sunlite Rim Strips 26x45mm (if you don't want to cut your stock liners)
Velocity Velo Plug Rim Hole Covers, 72/Bag Yellow

I have been learning how to convert the rims to tubeless via Youtube and other sources from Google.
I am starting both today and hope to have it completed by this weekend. More pictures to come as I get more progress.

I am starting off with cutting the stock liners down to 45mm wide to cover the spoke holes and allow the tape to seal. Some of the spoke holes are still sharp and did not want to get a flat due to the sharp corners cutting through the tape.

UPDATE:
I found these little plugs that go in the spoke holes. I purchased enough to do both bikes. I installed a couple of them they seem to be a good fit. Push the plug down then tap it in with a small hammer. If anyone has experience with using these plugs please let me know. I think the idea is the plugs will hold upto 400psi and the sealant will seal if there is any leaks.

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Using the Stan's valve stems I was unable to get the air tight seal. Air kept leaking past the valve stem. Did a tub test and air bubbles came out between the lock nut and the rim no other air bubbles were observed. I don't think air is leaking into the middle of the rim and pushing air out the valve stem but it's possible.
 
Using the Stan's valve stems I was unable to get the air tight seal. Air kept leaking past the valve stem. Did a tub test and air bubbles came out between the lock nut and the rim no other air bubbles were observed. I don't think air is leaking into the middle of the rim and pushing air out the valve stem but it's possible.
I find that having Permatex Gasket Maker, or Liquid Rubber on hand helps with many applications. It could help here. Good reporting. The photos are great.
 
I added a second layer of tape and clear Loctite silicone sealer to the rubber of the valve stem. Will let sit for a few hours and try to inflate again. Thanks for the tip.
 
Using something like Permatex Gasket Maker (which I have from my car restoration days) to better seal the valve stem looks to be a great idea.
 
Many Attempts to get the valve stem to seal have failed. Air keeps coming out.
After much debate and discussion with my local bike shop I am not going to go tubeless with these rims.

I am going to abandon the tubeless for Tannus Armour system.
 
That's too bad the tubeless route didn't work for you. Let us know what you think of the Tannus system. My new ebike that's coming in April/May (fingers crossed) will come with Tannus inserts.
 
Many Attempts to get the valve stem to seal have failed. Air keeps coming out.
After much debate and discussion with my local bike shop I am not going to go tubeless with these rims.

I am going to abandon the tubeless for Tannus Armour system.
I'm waffling on converting my tires while I change from nubbies to more of a commuter tire, but am afraid of similar outcome... it's an entry level ebike and the rims are obviously generic: some sort of "resin composite" aka plastic.
 
I have converted the two front two wheels last night with the Tannus Armour setup. I have not reinstalled the wheels on the bikes yet. 2 more wheels to convert. See my comments below.

Couple things I have to comment on. First trying to get a simple answer from Tannus support on the inter tube size was never clear. Thanks to a member they posted a picture of the Kenda inner tube they got with their kit. I found and ordered the 26x2.4-2.8 tubes off ebay. The first 3 times I tried to install the tubes the bead would not seat. It kept blowing out. On my 4th attempt I coated the inside of the tire, Tannus Liner, and inner tube with talcum powder. This allowed everything to slide into place when adding air pressure. I guess with everything new and grippy the liner could not slide as air pressure was added. As I added 5-10-15-20 psi I would roll the tire to keep the liner sliding outward. I would sit on the tire to help compress it as I rolled it across the ground. I normally run 15 psi for trail riding. 20 psi for asphalt.

Tire would not seat. Needed to coat everything with talcum powder. (defective tire)
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Only modification I made was to (1/2") notch the liner which made inserting the valve through the wheel easier.
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I tried to mount the problem tire on another rim and it popped the bead. I am now sure the tire is bad it won't hold a bead even with an inner tube. The tire is very loose on the rim. I called Biketiresdirect and they are sending me a replacement tire under warranty.
 
I have been watching the air pressure in the tires over the last 24-48 hours since installing the Tannus liners and have seen drops of 2-3psi on all of the tires. I feel the pressure is compressing the Tannus foam. I hope it stabilizes. My pressure is 20 psi. Depending on where I am riding I usually set 15 psi for trail and 20 psi for road. I have yet to take the bikes out for a proper test.
 
So after 1 month I can report the install is working. What I don't like is the wheels are out of balance. When free spinning them in the air I feel the out of balance.
 
I have another update after using the Tannus for a few months. The out of balance feel is most noticeable when the shocks are locked out on asphalt. Unlock the front shock and the feeling goes away. The pedal effort is also slightly increased which means rolling resistance has increased. Not much of an increase but enough to notice. Same tire pressure of 20psi. I believe Tannus is a great product and I will continue to use it on the Juiced RCS. These are my observations after using the product.
 
I do not like the Tannus or fat tire bikes. I would rather have a full sized 700c wheel with a tire at 40 - 60mm. Aerothan tubes are better than tubeless and have a similar feel without the setup or potential of catastrophic failure. And they offer good puncture resistance. It is probably most important to select good tires. Look for E-50 with puncture resistance of level 5 to 7.
Tannus often require trimming. See photo.
The grey/blue bike is nice. The converted Chisle is very fast and stealthy with balanced handling. It is a light mid-drive. Last Thursday we did a 35 mile fast ride with big hills and high winds and I retuned with 2 bars out of 4. It has Schwalbe Big Apple tires that are 60's with Mr. Tuffy liners.
This week we are doing one lap of Sonoma Mountain. What a blast!
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I am back to trying the tubeless setup on the RCS. The yellow caps are now removed and the new tape is applied. Stans 8-10 oz of sealant in each tire. Tires are holding air for that last 2 days. Today I lowered the pressures to 17 psi and road for a mile to get the sealant coating the inside. The Tannus Armour setup works but I feel additional effort to keep the same speed. The Tannus rolling resistance vs tubeless setup I do notice. If I can keep the tires inflated no leaks I will stay with the tubeless. The real test will be later this week when I go trail riding.
 
The bike should be more lively and responsive to ride. Thanks for the update and let us know.
 
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