Switching out to hydraulic brakes. Switching to brighter headlight.


Active Member
What is involved on the rover to do this? From what I gather the $90 set from luna (each sealed system caliper/ lever set) can bolt on the easy. My question is the rear - I don't have the bike yet - does the brake hose go through the frame or clip to the bottom? If it goes through, I imagine you have to break the system open to fish the tube through? Or leave it sealed and run outside.

Also, has anyone switched out the headlight to a unit that draws 15 or 20 watts? No issues with the controller?

I can't seem to get anything and leave it stock! :)

One curious mind wants to know. Thanks,
The rear brake cable run inside the upper frame on the left side and comes out near the seat post area. I never rode a bike with hydraulic brakes and I would be interested in hearing your review on the difference with the Radrover once you convert. I haven't had an issue with the 180mm disc brakes stopping power (me @ 270lbs+65lb bike+25lbs of gear) even at speeds of 22-24 mph. I think having the larger 4" fat tire contact patch really helps with the stopping power compared to my thinner 700X40c tires on my other bike. I would break-in the regular brakes for a few hundred miles and then see if you still want to convert (and you will have a before/after comparison).

I left my Radrover light and added a 18650 battery powered bike lights to my handle bar and another back-up light for my helmet (also rechargeable USB rear lights for my bike rack and back of helmet). The lights were already being used with my old commuter bike and I like I can switch them back/forth between bikes. The Radrover battery is already pulling a lot of juice just hauling my fat butt around and I didn't want to impact my range with any lights that might pull more power during my 5:30am commute.

I did add the BM Works Speed Extender, $23, Amazon, to mount my extra lights and iPhone 6S Plus holder. The Radrover handle bar looked too curved and not a lot of real estate to mount extra equipment.

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Thanks. I intend to do the conversion fairly soon, maybe just the front to begin with. I hear they are a pain to bleed, so the rear may wait if I run the tube throuh the frame. Hydraulic brakes are like having power brakes.
My advice to someone attempting this for the first time is to plan your conversion extensively from mechanical to hydraulic as well as triple check all your bolts tightness, cable routing for binding, and caliper adjustment. Once completed, I would take the bike out for a quick test ride in a safe, controlled area and check the operation. Double check all the bolts and adjustments after. Check again after your first normal ride out. And again after a month of riding, especially the pads for wear. Of course, do your daily checks before every ride for any obvious safety issues as well. Also, be careful your first time out since hydraulic is WAY stronger than any mechanical brake could ever be. Gradually learn the new brake force you can now apply. Make sure your hoses don't bind when steering and that your bolts stay tight and you should be good to go. I would change pads once a season if you are a casual rider (twice if aggressive) and bed them in whilst in a controlled environment and change the rotors when needed. Quality components make a world of difference on any vehicle and the Shimano set I used was great for less than $100. PM me if you need any help.
LOL, and then there this guys line of thought. (Warning, F bombs a plenty...)

I always enjoy taking a break on a mountain though.
that guy is a character.... just listening to him he obviously does not know how brakes work, his description for the adjustments are incorrect, and he obviously didn't bleed his brakes properly. I wonder if he ever bled the brakes in a car.... same principal (air is the enemy as it can be compressed). With that being said, my brother has a Giant Anthem X Advanced 29er with hydro brakes and they are AMAZING. I still don't think I will add them to my Rover but I do like them.
Don't have a RAD, so I cannot comment on that, but the difference/benefit is the amount of pressure you need to apply to the brake lever.
In most cases, this is not a problem, except when going downhill, fast on either a bumpy trail or a bumpy paved road (pot holes, tree roots, etc). Being able to use the brakes with one finger, leaves more fingers on the grip, which makes the bike more stable and easier to control.
KoolStop came out with eBike pads. I use them and KoolStop salmon where ther are no lug to install disc brakes. Or wheels setup for discs. I have 26" discs!