Squeaking Front Brake on Como 3.0

[Ned]

I just purchased a Como 3.0 and I love it!! However, since day one (it only has about 20 miles on it) the front disk brake squeals like a stuck pig when braking. When I look down on the break, one of the pads touches the disk first, the other is just a hair away from touching the disk. With more pressure, and both pads on the disk, the brake still makes a lot of noise. Could this be the problem? The disk seems not to be bent or warped. The Specialized dealer is about 21/2 hours away, so I'd like to fix this myself. Any advice will be welcomed! Thanks very much. Ned

 

[fooferdoggie]

I just purchased a Como 3.0 and I love it!! However, since day one (it only has about 20 miles on it) the front disk brake squeals like a stuck pig when braking. When I look down on the break, one of the pads touches the disk first, the other is just a hair away from touching the disk. With more pressure, and both pads on the disk, the brake still makes a lot of noise. Could this be the problem? The disk seems not to be bent or warped. The Specialized dealer is about 21/2 hours away, so I'd like to fix this myself. Any advice will be welcomed! Thanks very much. Ned

its a mechanical disc brake then right? thats normal. fist clean the rotors and pads with alcohol or soap and water. the second solution is to take the pads out sand them lightly and the disc then follow the bake in method. https://reviews.mtbr.com/how-to-bedding-in-new-disc-brake-pads

 

[Ned]

Sorry I wasn't clearer. It is a disk brake. Hydraulic, right? Thanks. Ned

 

[Sierratim]

Sorry I wasn't clearer. It is a disk brake. Hydraulic, right? Thanks. Ned

The specs for the Como 3 do call out hydraulic brakes. The clearance between the rotor and the pads is always very small. If you're not getting a rubbing sound when you're not breaking then what you've got is OK. The squeal you're getting while braking indicates that you need to bed the brakes in. This basically involves getting the pads to wear flat with the rotors, though some also say that pad material gets deposited on the rotors.

Regardless, there are several bedding procedures detailed online. I'd suggest this one by Park Tool,

.

 

[Ned]

Thank you, Sierratim for your good information. I made a mistake. My bike is a Como2 and last year's model. Not a Como3. But I suspect that doesn't matter. The brakes are hydraulic. I will ride for a bit longer hoping to break-in the pads. We'll see. Can I clean the pads without removing the wheel? Don't want to do that on my own. But I still wonder if the fact that one pad hits the rotor a fraction later then the other might be the cause of the problem. Thanks again. Ned

 

[fooferdoggie]

if they are hydraulic both pads should move the same. mechanical discs only one side moves. but usually one pad hitting first is not a issue as thats how mechanical discs work.

 

[Sierratim]

Thank you, Sierratim for your good information. I made a mistake. My bike is a Como2 and last year's model. Not a Como3. But I suspect that doesn't matter. The brakes are hydraulic. I will ride for a bit longer hoping to break-in the pads. We'll see. Can I clean the pads without removing the wheel? Don't want to do that on my own. But I still wonder if the fact that one pad hits the rotor a fraction later then the other might be the cause of the problem. Thanks again. Ned

Simply riding won't bed in the pads. You need a series of medium speed 'almost stops'. It's often recommended to follow this this with higher speed 'almost' stops, all in sequence.

You do need to remove the pads to effectively clean them. The online specs call out Tektro HD-T286 brakes, correct? If so, it doesn't appear that you can remove the pads with the wheel on. Removing the front wheel is straight forward, you'll need a 5mm hex wrench to remove the thru axle. Once that's done you can rest the bike on its front fork while you pull the pads.

I clean my pads and rotors with rubbing alcohol to remove organic oils and grit followed by a light sanding of the pad surfaces. I then clean the rotors and pads again with acetone to remove any hydrocarbons (road oils, etc).

 

[Ned]

Thanks again. Sierratim. How do you know so much?! I will try bedding in the pads as you suggest. However, these brakes have squeaked since mile one. Within minutes of riding I noticed the noise. And it's a pretty loud noise. I have a call in to the shop where I bought the bike, and they seem to be very good, and I'll see what advice they have on Monday. Unfortunately they are 21/2 hours away. I'll let you know what they say. Thanks very much again. BTW, I bought a 2.0 2018 Como and my wife bought a 3.0 2019 Como. I was told the two were identical except of mine has no lights and the readout is different. To your knowledge are they the same? Are the batteries and motors the same? Any other big differences? I paid about $500 less. Cheap me, big spender her. Ned

 

[Sierratim]

Thanks again. Sierratim. How do you know so much?! I will try bedding in the pads as you suggest. However, these brakes have squeaked since mile one. Within minutes of riding I noticed the noise. And it's a pretty loud noise. I have a call in to the shop where I bought the bike, and they seem to be very good, and I'll see what advice they have on Monday. Unfortunately they are 21/2 hours away. I'll let you know what they say. Thanks very much again. BTW, I bought a 2.0 2018 Como and my wife bought a 3.0 2019 Como. I was told the two were identical except of mine has no lights and the readout is different. To your knowledge are they the same? Are the batteries and motors the same? Any other big differences? I paid about $500 less. Cheap me, big spender her. Ned

With great age comes great wisdom, I wish!

Brake pads that need bedding in are usually noisy from day 1. As the park Tool video suggests, it's a normal part of having disc brakes, though the OEM pads are usually organic compounds. I'm not familiar with Tektro pad hardness, but Shimano organic pads don't normally need bedding in as they are fairly soft. I've since replaced them with longer wearing pads that did need bedding in. Maybe you got 'lucky' and got upgraded pads in your front caliper?

Anyway, your 2 Como's have the same Specialized/Brose 1.2 motor. Your battery is a bit smaller at 460Wh vs 500Wh for your wife's so she'll have a bit more range depending on riding style. Her charger is also a 4A version vs 2A for yours so she could potentailly be back on the road sooner as well.

She'll have an edge on hill climbing with her 10 speed drive train, 40t chain ring and a 11-42t cassette vs 9spd, 40t and 11-36t for yours.

Looks like your Como is a Class 1 ebike (assist to 20mph) so your wife may leave you behind on the flats as well with her Class 3 bike (assist to 28mph).

The Como 3 has generally upgraded components with a Deore drivetrain vs Alivio and Shimano MT200 brakes vs Tektro T286 hydraulic brakes.

Both bikes do have the same inner tubes so you can share you flat kit!

Have fun, but let her get too far ahead!

 

[Ned]

Thanks, Sierratim. Great wisdom it is.

I called the shop where we bought these bikes and he encouraged using the bike for a few weeks and that should adequately bed the pads. I looked at the Park Tool video as suggested. "a normal part of having disc brakes".

I am going to have to take a look at the charging amps of our chargers. I assumed the two were interchangeable so we're using one to charge both bikes. I suppose we should use the 2A charger for both as the 4A may be too much for my 460Wh battery. Longer time, I guess for charging her 500Wh batt.

Thanks again.

PS: my wife often leaves me behind.

Ned

 

[BarryS]

Thanks, Sierratim. Great wisdom it is.

I called the shop where we bought these bikes and he encouraged using the bike for a few weeks and that should adequately bed the pads. I looked at the Park Tool video as suggested. "a normal part of having disc brakes".

I am going to have to take a look at the charging amps of our chargers. I assumed the two were interchangeable so we're using one to charge both bikes. I suppose we should use the 2A charger for both as the 4A may be too much for my 460Wh battery. Longer time, I guess for charging her 500Wh batt.

Thanks again.

PS: my wife often leaves me behind.

Ned

I don't have your bike : However disc brakes are known for this : It's really simple : Loosen the one or 2 screws that hold the brake housing in place : Don't remove it : Just loosen it enough that it moves : Reach up and Squeeze the appropriate Break Lever : While holding the Brake lever Snug the screws back up. Then tighten them to the appropriate torque : Which should be embossed right on the housing :
Every once in awhile they move :

Go look on Youtube and you'll see tons of videos on the topic : It doesn't matter whether it's an electric Bike : Hydraulics are all the same as far as how they work.

Your LBS is probably correct : But without Looking at them How does he know they aren't ever so slightly out of alignment : You may as well learn how to do this : It's simple and you'll want to adjust them every now and then anyway. Especially if you remove the Wheels :

IT's LIKELY THE OWNERS MANUAL ADDRESSES Hydraulic Brake Adjustment : All My Bike manuals do : It's a No Brainer : After all even though it's electric Powered : The Majority of Mechanical Parts are the same as on an Non E- Bike :

I would only caution you to make sure you are loosening the Screws that mount it to the fork and not the ones that hold in the pads :

 

[Sierratim]

The chargers are interchangeable between your batteries. It's all about the battery 'C' rate; C = (Battery Capacity Wh)/Voltage. It's normally considered good practice to limit charging current of lithium ion batteries to C/2. In the case of the 460Wh battery, C=460/36=12.7A. C/2 = 6.3A so charging this battery at up to 6A is OK. The 4A charger won't be a problem.

If you're concerned about battery life there are battery management techniques to help with this. As a rule don't discharge the battery below 20% nor charge above 80%. Occasional charging to100% is needed to balance the battery cells. Don't store the battery at a high or low state of charge (SOC). 50% is a good target for storage. Don't store the battery where it's too cold, nothing below ~40°F.

Personally I find trying to manage the SOC to be too much trouble. My first ebike conversion battery lasted over 8 years. I expect the same from my Vado battery. The only questions is, which one of us dies first, me or the battery...

There's lots more info about batteries at Battery University.

Ride On!...

 

[000]

Thanks again. Sierratim. How do you know so much?! I will try bedding in the pads as you suggest. However, these brakes have squeaked since mile one. Within minutes of riding I noticed the noise. And it's a pretty loud noise. I have a call in to the shop where I bought the bike, and they seem to be very good, and I'll see what advice they have on Monday. Unfortunately they are 21/2 hours away. I'll let you know what they say. Thanks very much again. BTW, I bought a 2.0 2018 Como and my wife bought a 3.0 2019 Como. I was told the two were identical except of mine has no lights and the readout is different. To your knowledge are they the same? Are the batteries and motors the same? Any other big differences? I paid about $500 less. Cheap me, big spender her. Ned

The brakes on my wife's Como 2.0 are sometimes noisy, loading her bike on the bike rack I noticed a wheel wasn't rotating freely; brake pad rubing the rotor. Since, I've made sure pad clearance is adjusted; this seems to help. Easy to adjust...loosen the brake, squeeze the brake lever, tighten the brake bolts. Lot's of more detailed, clearer instructions on the web, esp. you tube. Anyway, my experience, and there is noise on occasion regardless.

 

[Ned]

Thank you for your message. I've been reluctant to mess with the mechanics of this bike; I haven't gotten yet my head around how things like the hydraulic brakes are put together. I will as you suggest look on YouTube for a better understanding. I have come to realize there is going to be some noise regardless. Thanks again.

 

[Sierratim]

Thank you for your message. I've been reluctant to mess with the mechanics of this bike; I haven't gotten yet my head around how things like the hydraulic brakes are put together. I will as you suggest look on YouTube for a better understanding. I have come to realize there is going to be some noise regardless. Thanks again.

I find that a bit of cleaning helps quiet down my brakes. For a quick clean I use my shop's compressor to blow dust out of the caliper and off the pads and then wipe down the rotor with alcohol. When I have more noise I pull the pads and clean them with alcohol (for road grime) and acetone (for oils), give them a light sand and reinstall.