So far, lots of fun with my Frey Beast.

I do have a Large size frame. I did not swap my brake levers, it came that way... That's typically how they are in the US, right=rear brake (by law maybe).
Interesting as I wouldn’t have thought it mattered, but must have something to do with the side of the road you ride on which is the opposite side to the land down under.
 
I ditched the stock pedals for some OneUp Composites. So much better grip... And yes, I have already smacked one of those huge spikes into my shin jumping some ramps with my feet not set correctly (stupid mistake). Worth it though.

Yes, I need to wash my bike, I'm a bum.
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The new Rekon+ EXO TR front tire is on now. I had air leaking at the rim seam so I re-taped it, this time going 42mm wide so it was under each bead hook. Let me tell you, the clear Gorilla tape definitely leaves a residue, and the rim was is in my hot garage for a while too (usually softens the adhesives). It was fairly easy to scrub off with a scrub brush and some Zepp floor stripper concentrate that I had on hand, about 10 minutes. Needless to say, I order some Whisky tape 45mm wide to try next time. It has held air overnight so that's a relief.


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I joined the 48T front chainring gang (I don't notice much of a difference?!? I noticed mine barely rubs the triangle when removing all load from the suspension)... Replaced my chain with an XX1 variant. I think I've chewed up my high gears on the cassette, they skip now with a new chain. The form doesn't look bad, but I'm no expert. Hopefully this weekend I can go double check chain length (added 4 links) and derailleur adjustment to fix. I ordered an XG-1299 XX1 Eagle cassette just in case.

I find it difficult to get the cable tension correct for the derailleur... I've been thinking about going AXS. Unfortunately, this is not a UDH setup, so no T-Type unless the hole is opened up, which would weaken the mounting point somewhat. I need to check the SRAM docs to see if there are any guidelines for the minimum material. I will probably just get the older non t-type if I go this route.

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I resized my chain today, and adjusted my derailleur... It was a bit of wasted effort as a better inspection of my cassette revealed some nasty wear on the smallest sprocket (though, I see this form on some new Eagle cassettes too ???). I do have it shifting quite smoothly, just in time to replace the cassette. I also snapped some pictures of the 48T chainring clearance. Under gravity alone, the chainring does not rub, with a rider, there is plenty of clearance. Lifting the bike in the air allows it to very barely rub (maybe 0.1mm).

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I don’t have the rubbing issue with the Wolf Tooth chainring, so I suspect the offset is slightly different?

Is your chainring steel like stock or Ali?
 
I find it difficult to get the cable tension correct for the derailleur... I've been thinking about going AXS. Unfortunately, this is not a UDH setup, so no T-Type unless the hole is opened up, which would weaken the mounting point somewhat. I need to check the SRAM docs to see if there are any guidelines for the minimum material. I will probably just get the older non t-type if I go this route.
I also had issues with cable tension on a similar bike, Z1 Luna. I finally tracked it down to the fact that the cable housing length and the few bends it has to reach the derailleur creates friction that makes it hard to dial in. This especially showed up in the middle of the cassette where cable tension starts to back off. I figured that wireless electronic shifting would alleviate the issue but didn't want to spend $$$$ for the Di2 or AXS systems. I decided on the Archer Components system that eliminates 95% of the cable housing and has a wireless pod shifter like the other more expensive systems.

I had switched to using cheaper steel cassettes and derailleurs in 11spd after the original 12spd. Sram GX stuff wore out and continued with them after installing the Archer setup. Initializing the Archer to the cassette was relatively easy due and shifting improved. However still had issues with cassette wear and switched to the 11spd Shimano Linkglide chain/cassette and now am experiencing nice crisp shifting. Still not cheap but the overall cost was half of the other available electronic systems.

I do suspect that the nm torque of the M620 is the culprit in wearing out the smaller cassette cogs though and time will tell if the Linkglide cassette, which is steel, will stand the test of time. However replacement cost is not bad at least.
 
Thank you for the info. I went to mount my XX1 cassette, and low and behold I have an NX cassette, which uses a different driver (Shimano HG?). I need to order a Sram XD driver to finish the swap. I'm sure it seems like I have more money than brains at this point, but in reality I have little of either.

This time around I also know to take better care of my drivetrain switching to dry lube as well.

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I don't know if I'll be able to find a freehub driver to fit the quanta hub, I bought one that is close, a bit too large, and may machine it to fit the pawl diameter.

In the meantime, I purchased another NX cassette and tuned the derailleur. Riding great again.
 
I noticed the Frey prices have jumped in the last couple of years. I think I paid 3800 including shipping for my CC a couple of years ago...
 
Yes, I paid a good bit less than the current price (with many extras like rack, lights, etc), but it was also at a reduced sale price at the time (I think black Friday last year).

As I've educated myself on drivetrains and started a DIY build, I feel kind of silly ordering the XX1 cassette without understanding the freehub style. Regardless, for my type of riding so far, I make zero use of the most of the lowest gears (big cogs). My DIY bike is a 9 speed (cheap L-Twoo A5) using a Toseven DM01 motor.

Updates:

I've ordered a 44 tooth chainring. There's no offset on my 48T (or stock steel), but it does rub when the rear triangle is fully relaxed.
 
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I also had issues with cable tension on a similar bike, Z1 Luna. I finally tracked it down to the fact that the cable housing length and the few bends it has to reach the derailleur creates friction that makes it hard to dial in. This especially showed up in the middle of the cassette where cable tension starts to back off. I figured that wireless electronic shifting would alleviate the issue but didn't want to spend $$$$ for the Di2 or AXS systems. I decided on the Archer Components system that eliminates 95% of the cable housing and has a wireless pod shifter like the other more expensive systems.

I had switched to using cheaper steel cassettes and derailleurs in 11spd after the original 12spd. Sram GX stuff wore out and continued with them after installing the Archer setup. Initializing the Archer to the cassette was relatively easy due and shifting improved. However still had issues with cassette wear and switched to the 11spd Shimano Linkglide chain/cassette and now am experiencing nice crisp shifting. Still not cheap but the overall cost was half of the other available electronic systems.

I do suspect that the nm torque of the M620 is the culprit in wearing out the smaller cassette cogs though and time will tell if the Linkglide cassette, which is steel, will stand the test of time. However replacement cost is not bad at least.

I did a bit of research into the Shimano Linkglide setup, I think that will be my next swap when I chew through this NX cassette... Searching for the best Black Friday/Cyber Monday deals. What parts did you use for the cassette, derailleur, and shifter... seems like there's a few options on the compatibility guide, namely Cues or XT (11 speed) https://productinfo.shimano.com/#/com?acid=C-558&cid=C-432.
 
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IRDM8130SGS Derailleur

CS-LG600-11 is now CS-LG700 - ICSLG70011150 Cassette

ICNLG500126Q Chain

https://archercomponents.com/ Shifter

Shimano recommends their shifter but the Archer system due to it's pretty much infinite adjustability works great plus I already had it.
 
Ok, I took the plunge on Shimano 11 speed link glide.

Parts:
  • Rear derailleur: Deore XT RD-M8130-SGS.
  • Cassette: CS-LG700-11.
  • Shifter: SL-M8130-R11.
  • Chain: CN-LG500.
Since it makes the most sense to wait until I wear out the NX cassette before swapping, I will probably not end up waiting 🤡. Let's see if I can hold off for now. I still need my new cable housing anyway.

Edit: it came with some cable housing 😰.

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Here's a comparison of Deore XT 8130 and Cues U8000 for anyone interested. Did some searching on the web and saw a claim that they are the same. They definitely are not the same, the XT is higher quality as expected.
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