Rounded bolt

[Dazzer1811]

HELP!!!

My lapierre Yamaha intube battery has an error code 71, I believe the fix is cleaning out the connection points, but as I put my torx key in to the bolt holding the battery through the fame, it has rounded out the bolt and it’s stuck fast.
Advice please

 

[indianajo]

Throw that battery away. There is a way to remove stuck bolts with a left hand drill, but it causes metal shards and you do not want metal shards in the vicinity of a LiIon battery terminals. You drill in until the bit is in the hole 1/8" then jerk sideways while drill is rotating to wedge the edges in the slot and grab the bolt to pull it out.
In future do not use tools made in *****. Real steel bits do not round out as many fastener heads. I had a senior coworker use his Harbor Freight garbage to destroy all the allen fasteners on motors & gearboxes, then we had to use a $15 employer supplied US made drill bit to remove the remainder. In US you can buy real steel tools from mcmaster.com industrial supply.

 

[m@Robertson]

It should be almost impossible to tear up a Torx socket head. Thats why they are used over hex sockets, because they have so much extra surface area, presented at angles that aren't really subject to stripping/destruction.

Was there thread locker put on the bolt? Did you not properly seat the wrench and that partial contact was what undid you? Heat (from a heat gun, not a flame source) will help. From there you are going to have to *carefully* use a bolt extractor. Do it carefully enough and there won't be any metal shards, but thats unlikely. Especially if somehow a Torx socket was ruined.

 

[Avg_Joe]

If you have the means, very carefully slot the bolt head with a Dremel, a fine hacksaw, or the ilk; then use a screwdriver on it.

 

[harryS]

This is an exposed screw on the outside of the battery? You can use a screw extractor if you're careful. Cover the connector if you wish. A little grease on the drill bit will hold most of the filings.

Now if the battery is still in the bike frame, it's more awkward.

 

[JES2020]

If you have the means, very carefully slot the bolt head with a Dremel, a fine hacksaw, or the ilk; then use a screwdriver on it.

This would be my advised method.
If you don't have acess to slot the bolt, you can have a nut or lump of weld, welded to the top of the bolt for easy removal with a wrench.

 

[indianajo]

Welding metal to the bolt won't be funny if the battery catches fire in the process.

 

[rich c]

Just how much mechanical skills do you have? There preferred tool is a small impact driver and torx socket. The impact breaks it loose. All the suggestions imply you have tools and mechanical ability. If you don't, take it to a bicycle shop. Continuing to damage the bolt further could cost you more in the long run. I thought code 71 meant the battery contact is not good and the lock needs adjustment. Try putting a velcro strap tightly around the battery and frame.

 

[JES2020]

Welding metal to the bolt won't be funny if the battery catches fire in the process.

Have you ever seen someone weld???
They use fireproof blankets so there's that.

 

[EMGX]

Your bike has a different mounting system?
If you show a picture of your setup that might help.

 

[Avg_Joe]

I have also "squared off" bolt heads with a file (or Dremel), then used a small wrench or vise grips to get them out.

If you have to do maintenance that includes Torx bolts, get Wiha Torx bits. They're not expensive for a set to work on a bike, made in Germany, they seat perfectly, and I've never had an issue with them/they've never stripped out a bolt head on items ranging from 1:10 scale RC's to my road-going vehicles. (Obligatory pimp for Japanese Industrial Standard [JIS] allen and screwdriver bits as well -so much better and positive seating & grip than anything/any brand I've used. And also very inexpensive, e.g. a Vessel brand set off Amazon is around $20.)

 

[m@Robertson]

If you have to do maintenance that includes Torx bolts, get Wiha Torx bits. They're not expensive for a set to work on a bike, made in Germany, they seat perfectly, and I've never had an issue with them/they've never stripped out a bolt head on items ranging from 1:10 scale RC's to my road-going vehicles.

Second the vote for always buying good tools. I generally use Bondhus for torx, which are USA made, precise fit and good tool steel. If not Bondhus then Wera - German stuff not cheap but absolute top quality. I have some Wiha Torx drivers and while they are fantastic for precision torx bits, they are not good for leverage since the ones I have are basically screwdriver-shaped. But for solid no frills quality anything from Bondhus is good stuff. They are sold on Amazon and at the Ace hardware stores in my area.

 

[Avg_Joe]

Second the vote for always buying good tools. I generally use Bondhus for torx, which are USA made, precise fit and good tool steel. If not Bondhus then Wera - German stuff not cheap but absolute top quality. I have some Wiha Torx drivers and while they are fantastic for precision torx bits, they are not good for leverage since the ones I have are basically screwdriver-shaped. But for solid no frills quality anything from Bondhus is good stuff. They are sold on Amazon and at the Ace hardware stores in my area.

Amen.

And I meant to type Wera, not Wiha - my bad.

 

[indianajo]

I'm glad you all live in mega-cities.
I've never seen a Wera anything, nor any tool made in Germany. Bondrus I have seen has only been allen wrenches, not torx. I'm not ordering any tool off Amazon, marketer of counterfeiters. My local hardware is just like HD & Lowes, ***** ***** ***** ***** ***** *****. I mostly buy used US tools at flea markets but I can't find everything. Had $25000 of US made tools stolen Sep 2018 including 2 welders. At work to shield electronics walls etc from weld spatter we used sheets of stainless steel.

 

[Tars Tarkas]

I see you're in the UK, but it should still work to search for "screw extractor" on Amazon. They are easy to use and very effective. Buying quality is great but if this is a one-off operation you don't have to buy top of the line.

Once you get bolt out and replaced, using the exact right bit to turn it in or take it out is critical. Good tools are cheap in the long run, and a lot easier, so try not to skimp.

TT

 

[MWRider]

A hammer and a small chisel works to catch the edge of the bolt head and rotate the bolt, (unscrew).
And please be careful with heat guns as there is basically a high heat generated by the wire element capable of starting a fire. Who’d a thunk it?

 

[Tars Tarkas]

Welding metal to the bolt won't be funny if the battery catches fire in the process.

Did someone suggest welding something to the bolt?! That might be a good idea on heavy machinery but it seems kinda nuts on a bike.

TT