Ride1Up Ltd Seat-post specs are incorrect

Fast n' Furious

Well-Known Member
San Diego
A few words to the wise for folks that take cited specs at face value.
In the pursuit of excellence (and my never ending upgrading fetish) and I purchased a KINEKT X2 Seat-post. I got a great price break, but it came only in 27.2mm and requires a shim to fit my Ride 1 Up Limited's seat-post tube.
R1U's site https://ride1up.com/product/lmtd-2/ lists my seat-post as a "Promax 350mm x 31.6mm Dual Bolt" type and size.
I have a snapshot of that page from when I bought my bike that say's the same thing. "31.6mm".
When I went to do the change-out, my micrometer indicates the outside of the stock post is 30.4mm (NOT 31.6mm as advertised).
The Promax stamping is so bad, it took a magnifying glass for me to read, but it also says "30.4" on the housing.
I measure the KINEKT post, it's 27.2mm (exactly as advertised) and as is common with decent posts, the size is CLEARLY listed on the housing (white letters in fact).
I guess nobody changes these seat-post?
I bought this suspension post - after much research and a ton of study on owners input that post here -- to complement my new Selle Anatomica saddle, also the fruits of much input from the same knowledgeable owners -- but had intended to change out the old post eventually anyway.
The Anatomica is USA made. 👍 The stock 'Selle Freeway' saddle (a different, unrelated 'Selle" company making products in China) 👎never angled right for me and has raised humps at the sit-bone point (not sure who thought that up), the exact opposite of the 'hammock effect' common to all fine saddles.
Very uncomfortable, my sit bones slip off those humps and I'm never really seated, rather perched, balanced on two 1" square area rounded humps. My butt keeps sliding back and forth, side to side off the humps, seeking a sold platform. Your tail may be different, but that the stock seat fly's in the face of design -- known for 50 years (ala 'Brooks" and others) is a salient fact. It's like sitting on two semisolid basketball halves in your easy-chair -- one under each bun. Great idea.
I compared the stock seat-post and found it would not attach to my new saddle properly. From the start I've known it lacks any meaningful angle adjustment and it's set at the wrong angle. Any workaround to change the angle adds unacceptable stress on the saddles rails. I'm building this bike the best it can be, not hacking a $165.00 ($180 w/ tax) saddle for a $10.00 seat-post.
Opinion: Another example of why OWNER'S NEED A MANUAL, not videos (where the star took 25 tries to seat that impossible battery housing plate -- and 24 were cut to make it look easy), which should list accurate specs, but then so should company advertising literature - esp. more so, considering that's all they provide.
The Silver lining. When I had to buy the 27.2mm I rationalized 'Oh well. I can always use it on any bike with shims' (sigh), so it's future-proofed..
Looking back, it's a good thing I didn't find my seat-post in 31.6mm size.🤩 Guess I won the booby prize.
I have a decent non-sprung seat-post laying around, so in my (fetish again) exuberance I installed the Anatomica.
My, my that seat is comfy. Worth every dime (esp w/ the current $33 off factory deal). Go USA !!! The KINEKT combo must be awesome.
So as Ronald Reagan said: Trust but verify (not sure where he plagiarized that one, but I like it).
Excuse me. I have to order another shim 😡

Best regards to the crew that knew about saddles and seat-posts. You guys saved my butt.

Thanks. It was pretty hard to find info about actual LMTD seatpost size. And I wasn't sure if micrometer is measuring 30.4 or 30.6
Even the same model of Ride1Up bike has shipped with different seat post sizes. My 700 came in early March with a 31.6 seatpost. Some 700s's come with 30.4. It's definitely something you want to verify by checking the seat post on your bike. I checked my post before ordering my suspension post and shim. I got a 27.2 Suntour and used a 27.2 to 31.6 shim.
Final notes:
Selle Anatomica's site indicated the items would be mailed within three business days. It took four phone calls and 48 days.
I ordered on June 1, 2021, they arrived on July 18, 2021.
Along the way, on one of the calls they told me 'we make them in-house' ... apparently, not very often and not in enough quantities.
So I'm actually buying a 'Future' - like hog bellies or copper - but without a 'delivery' date.
The carbon rails are a must have, (check); huge improvement over the stock stainless tubes (check); both in weight (check); and the improvement in ride quality (BIG 'check').
It's a nice saddle, worth the price and with decent American workmanship, but there are issues.
'Beveled Edges' are offered as an 'add-on', so what's normally 'finished leather work ' Selle charges a $29.95 + tax/ Shipping 'add-on' price.
Sealing leather products is not an accessory. It's ordinary, common practice. Selle charges $49.98 + tax and shipping for the liquid to do so.
You have to disassemble the entire assembly and waterproof it yourself.

Quick rant: Why is it not at the very least an OPTION ??? Why am I disassembling to do what should have been done ?
They don't offer the Carbon Rails as an option either ???

Uh uh. You are stuck with some useless stainless rails you never wanted - for what?
You want carbon ? Buy separately at $74.99 + tax and shipping, and again with disassembly and reassemble - instead of done at the outset.
Just my take. I love the saddle, I'm 100% 'American Cottage Industry' and don't mind paying substantial additional costs for that foible, but
suffering Nickel-and-Diming at every turn - at these prices - having to repeatedly pay 'additional shipping costs', combined with the grossly incorrect shipping time and false availability assurances - they still have on their website - made me feel like a victim, not a loyal customer.

Even the same model of Ride1Up bike has shipped with different seat post sizes. My 700 came in early March with a 31.6 seatpost. Some 700s's come with 30.4. It's definitely something you want to verify by checking the seat post on your bike. I checked my post before ordering my suspension post and shim. I got a 27.2 Suntour and used a 27.2 to 31.6 shim.

Follow Genex' advice: If you plan to change anything, guy a micrometer before you buy a bike; and another $600 in specialized tools; a Bachelor's degree in 'wheelology' w/ a 'e-bike' minor. Oh yes, and NEVER TRUST a manufacturer or anything published until you've verified (sounds like COVID vaccine objectors).
Anticipate your bike is a full time responsibility. Look, sell your kids and get your priorities together. Seatposts are expensive and the tools even more-so. Don't be lazy - like me - just roll up the doors on your 40,000 #ft Workshop, break out those specialty tools and verify THAT DAMN POST SIZE.
Under no circumstance should you buy a bike unless you have the tools - or everything will fail and you, and your 'mis-fitted parts e-bike' with the loose seatpost will probably be deported to Tajikistan - after being waterboarded.
Pic: Kinekt 3.1 Carbon w/ Med and Small springs mix/ Adjuster kit/ All Titanium hardware + Titanium clamp (w/ Hexlox), and Selle Anatomica X2 Saddle w Carbon rails + Meilan Side Laser-marker/ turn signal/ break lights.



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My Lmt'd seat tube is 30.4 ID (stamped on the tube), and I fitted in a Satori 27.2 seat post with a 30.4 shim. However, I was told by a bike mechanic that you may not have warranty coverage if the frame cracks in the vicinity of the seat tube while you are using a shimmed seat post, as opposed to a seat post with an OD that 'matches' the ID of the seat tube. So, I am going to change out the Satori for a suspension seat post with a 30.4 OD.

Edited to add: I'm not sure the mechanic was specifically talking about Ride1Up frames cracking, or just relating generally his experience with shimmed posts/cracked frames/warranty disclaimers. The more I think about it, I think it was the latter.
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I doubt it would void the warranty when the warrantor published incorrect information that caused the need for a shim.
Could happen. Kevin is pretty fair though and works hard to make good.
The tubes welds crack - so I hear - where the top tube and rear stay meet the seat tube.
Ride1Up's Ltd's frames juncture of the three meet on the same plane. The welds are quite beefy and the tube itself is not what you'll find on a 'bicycle grade' frame - which suffer the failures your mechanic's talking about (and I concur, He was speaking generically) but it's a possibility - esp large on conversion kits - even our machines.
This guy put it plain and simple: "The heat affected zone and difference in thickness in the weld area creates stress risers that concentrates the bending forces in one sharp area.
This means that when he rides the bicycle instead of the flexing happening over the entire length of the chain stay it will do most of it's flexing right at one the weld areas.
Imagine taking steel wire coat hanger and trying to bend it back and forth enough so it breaks in half by only holding it at the ends. If the wire is uniform then the wire will flex over it's entire length and be very difficult to break by fatiguing the metal. Now imagine adding a small hard thick part or a nick in the middle of the wire and then bending it back and forth. So now instead of evenly bending it will concentrate most of the bending in that one area and it will break much easier. That's what you do when you weld on tubing.". Natermer @ Re: Cracked Alloy frame repair
That would certainly apply to the flexing at the down tube's welds.
R1U had some real beef added on those welds, but I still see the point of having an accurate sized seat post - or as deep a shim as you can find.
It would be best if it ended well past the welds. If the flex point is on the tube itself, problem's solved.
Check this Titanium chain stay's crack https://www.bikeforums.net/bicycle-mechanics/996464-chain-stay-crack-ti-frame.html#&gid=1&pid=1
But at least Ti can be repaired. Aluminum Alloy seems doubtful.

Thanks for the tip !!! It's a great study.

Ahhhh. KINEKT does not come in 30.4mm.
Notes on the shim: No problems whatsoever. No cracks in frame. No play.
The split, 100mm shim, which inserts 50mm beyond the frames welds has worked great for a year.
The shim inserts 50mm beyond the frame's welds - I wouldn't trust a stubby adapter.
Carry on.