Question about brakes cutting power to motor

98 SNAKE EATER

Active Member
On my old 2020 X3 Pro, both brake handles would cut power to the motor (whether it be PAS or Hand Throttle)

On my new 2021 model, it appears that only the rear brake handle cuts power, not the front brake

It came with the Cruise Control turned on and as you can see from this video around the ~3:50 mark, when I let off the throttle during a test run, the front brake doesn't cut power and it would only stop when I pull the rear brake




Is this normal on the newer bikes?

I have since disabled the Cruise Control cause that just seems like a wreck waiting to happen
 
Have you double checked all the electrical connections?
Sometimes the Monday shift at the factory still has a weekend hang-over and is half-way daydreaming about what happened on Saturday....
 
All connections are plugged in

I remember leaving one handle unplugged while cleaning the old bike and it immediately threw an error code upon stsrt up, but this one boots up fine.

Also noticed that the speedometer is kinda wonky.

On the old bike, it was smooth and accurate with the wheel, but as you can see by the video, this one has a bit of a delay getting back to zero long after the wheel stops turning.

Still haven't had a chance to go for an actual ride though
 
My bikes use a rear brake cutout. I like that setup. Most braking is from the front just as on motorcycles. My rear is used to slow down a bit, and it's nice to have the motors cutout without hard braking. I'm kinda clumsy explaining here...
 
My bikes use a rear brake cutout. I like that setup. Most braking is from the front just as on motorcycles. My rear is used to slow down a bit, and it's nice to have the motors cutout without hard braking. I'm kinda clumsy explaining here...

What year is your bike?

My old bike was kinda setup like a motorcycle (right front), but both would cut the motor when pulled.

It was actually kinda annoying as the slightest pull of the brakes would cut the motor for about 3 to 5 pedal strokes, sometimes forcing me to blip the throttle if I was in need of it (like when climbing a steep incline on a technical rutt that also requires braking to balance).
 
What year is your bike?
How is that relevant? No sarcasm intended. I have kitted bikes with motors from 2014, 2016, 2018, 2019, 2020, and yes a couple of new motors this year. I don't experience a problem with my rear brakes cutting power. But I do hear from customers that simply do not like that safety feature.
 
Brake motor cut off is an interesting topic. I like many things about it on one bike that has cut off. And, I like many things about it being absent on another bike.

Rear brake only cut off may be an attempt at straddling the middle ground.
 
How is that relevant? No sarcasm intended. I have kitted bikes with motors from 2014, 2016, 2018, 2019, 2020, and yes a couple of new motors this year. I don't experience a problem with my rear brakes cutting power. But I do hear from customers that simply do not like that safety feature.

Reason I ask is because changes were made between the 2020 model and the 2021 model X3 Pro's

I'm trying to get a feel of what is considered "normal" between old and new.

Old bikes have direct drive hubs with regenerative braking, newer bikes have geared hubs without regen.

My old bike had Tektro brakes, this new one has Dyisland brakes.

Both handles appear to be wired into the controller, but only the rear handle cuts the motor power.

Is this considered normal for the newer bikes?
 
Have you tried to reach out to Wallke support perhaps there is a simple explanation for said condition and we`ll all learn something new.
 
Have you tried to reach out to Wallke support perhaps there is a simple explanation for said condition and we`ll all learn something new.

I have, but they have yet to respond on this issue as well as the USB port issue

That being said, I went for my first ride on the new bike yesterday to bed in the brakes and I actually prefer it without the motor cut

I did notice the battery level drains down a lot faster than the old bike

Went from 100% to 75% in less than 15 minutes of of riding with pedal assist

After I stopped, it went back up and settled at 85%

Geared motor is definitely louder, but felt like it had a bit more torque than the old bike

Hit 35mph pedalling hard in mode 3, but I have yet to confirm the actual speed with my GPS
 
Glad to hear that the motor power cut off is`n a big deal. The battery needs a few charge/discharge cycles to show its potential.
Keep us posted about Wallke support response, I'm interested to learn what they think the problem is or why they made it that way.
 
On my old 2020 X3 Pro, both brake handles would cut power to the motor (whether it be PAS or Hand Throttle)

On my new 2021 model, it appears that only the rear brake handle cuts power, not the front brake

It came with the Cruise Control turned on and as you can see from this video around the ~3:50 mark, when I let off the throttle during a test run, the front brake doesn't cut power and it would only stop when I pull the rear brake




Is this normal on the newer bikes?

I have since disabled the Cruise Control cause that just seems like a wreck waiting to happen

Just like in a car, when your hit the brakes, the cruise control disengages.

On an ebike same would hold true. The way the bike knows you are pulling the brakes is via a brake switch.
However, sometimes the brake switches are not adjusted properly and pulling the brake lever does not set off the switch. (Even if the bike slows down.)

Not familiar with Wallke, but you may just have a case of the brake switch not activated when pulling the front brake.
If you have integrated brake lights, pulling the brake lever should activate the rear brake light. This is also the signal used by for the motor controller to cut power to the motor.
Test to see if the front brake switch is working by looking at the taillight.
 
Interesting In over half a decade of customer support for kits with brake cutouts I can’t remember any significant number of warranty claims for cheap Wuxing switched levers. That’s not hundreds but probably a few thousand kits. They are super easy to test and cheap. So cheap I always suggest having spares in your kit.
 
Ran into an issue while riding out at Montauk Point yesterday.

No power with either PAS or hand throttle.

Narrowed it down to the right brake lever as the culprit

When I push it forward with a bit of tension, it would regain power.

Haven't had a chance to eyeball how it's wired up, but does anyone have a write up on how to adjust it?
 
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