Pain in the neck and back, wrong frame size?

PimpMan

New Member
I am experiencing pain in the lower back and in the rear of my neck. Perhaps my bicycle frame is too small, however i am not sure this is only problem - see street bikes riders ride facing down a lot like in swimming you keep your head down, i cannot do that, i tend to look ahead of me 100% of the time (sometimes i ride on sidewalks, also there's holes in the road i want to spot to ride around) it just feels natural to me to know where i am going.

I currently have mountain bike, but handle bars are flat, i was thinking of installing medium hi-rise handle bars but it might look stupid plus not sure how it will affect steering.

Currently i am in the market for new light weight bicycle 15 pounds, so road bicycle is the number one choice, i obviously don't need a drop down handle bars just straight or medium hi-rise.

Need more info how to select correct size frame also and any advice on the situation with the pain i get after several hour ride.

My ride style is commuting, i am doing food delivery on a bicycle, i don't care much about, top speed and aerodynamics, usually i ride for 8 hours a day.

1.png
 
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I am experiencing pain in the lower back and in the rear of my neck. Perhaps my bicycle frame is too small, however i am not sure this is only problem - see street bikes riders ride facing down a lot like in swimming you keep your head down, i cannot do that, i tend to look ahead of me 100% of the time (sometimes i ride on sidewalks, also there's holes in the road i want to spot to ride around) it just feels natural to me to know where i am going.

I currently have mountain bike, but handle bars are flat, i was thinking of installing medium hi-rise handle bars but it might look stupid plus not sure how it will affect steering.

Currently i am in the market for new light weight bicycle 15 pounds, so road bicycle is the number one choice, i obviously don't need a drop down handle bars just straight or medium hi-rise.

Need more info how to select correct size frame also and any advice on the situation with the pain i get after several hour ride.

My ride style is commuting, i am doing food delivery on a bicycle, i don't care much about, top speed and aerodynamics, usually i ride for 8 hours a day.

View attachment 19897

Hello,
I know exactly of what you speak regarding neck pain and riding. I strongly recommend you take
whatever bike you settle on to a skilled trained certified bike fitter at your local bike shop, and have a complete
fit of the bike to you and your riding style... Expect to pay $150 minimum plus for the bike fit plus the cost of
any changes to your bike ie: seat and most likely stem as well as the possibility handlebars and perhaps cranks.

I did this exact thing and it made a world of difference in the way my bikes fit me perfectly. Lastly you mentioned
you're in the market for a bike and wrote....

Another suggestion...Install a Cirrus Body Float Seat post. I have one on both my bikes and it makes all the difference
in the world.... http://cirruscycles.com/

Lastly you mentioned you're in the market for a bike and wrote....

"i am in the market for new light weight bicycle 15 pounds, so road bicycle is the number one choice,
i obviously don't need a drop down handle bars just straight or medium hi-rise."......I have a mint, perfect
condition Trek 7.7FX Full Carbon for sale....

https://www.trekbicyclesuperstore.com/product/trek-7.7-fx-211842-1.htm

Thanks,
John from CT
 
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I am experiencing pain in the lower back and in the rear of my neck. Perhaps my bicycle frame is too small, however i am not sure this is only problem - see street bikes riders ride facing down a lot like in swimming you keep your head down, i cannot do that, i tend to look ahead of me 100% of the time (sometimes i ride on sidewalks, also there's holes in the road i want to spot to ride around) it just feels natural to me to know where i am going.

I currently have mountain bike, but handle bars are flat, i was thinking of installing medium hi-rise handle bars but it might look stupid plus not sure how it will affect steering.

Currently i am in the market for new light weight bicycle 15 pounds, so road bicycle is the number one choice, i obviously don't need a drop down handle bars just straight or medium hi-rise.

Need more info how to select correct size frame also and any advice on the situation with the pain i get after several hour ride.

My ride style is commuting, i am doing food delivery on a bicycle, i don't care much about, top speed and aerodynamics, usually i ride for 8 hours a day.

View attachment 19897
I feel your pain. I had similar problem in the past. The ebike I had in the past had a forward position (aggressive) which caused more bend (angle) at my lower back and neck. Plus the handle bar had an awkward wrist position resulting to back, neck and wrist pains.
I needed to reduce the excess angle at the lower back and neck, I also needed to reposition the handle bar reach, height, and wrist angle. (see yellow lines)
1518146649634.png

After comparing the riding position to my older and more comfortable non electric bike, I ended with a Jones H bar, stem riser, and and short stem.
1518147108424.png


Here's a video on the advantage of using the Jones H bar.

The video below explains how handle bar wrist angle affects comfort and pain to the wrist, upper extremities, and upper body.

Now, I can ride for more than 4 hours straight with no back, neck, or wrist pains.
 
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... i was thinking of installing medium hi-rise handle bars but it might look stupid ...

If appearance is more important than comfort, then cope with the pain. ;-) A comfortable eBike is a LOT of fun, so fit any kind of handlebar necessary to make it right. Peruse the photo gallery/threads on this and other sites to see how many others have chosen the comfort option.
 
Get a proper bike fit as suggested and also see a qualified physician perhaps to have professionals give you an opinion on how to alleviate your issues. Regardless of the advice you are getting here that may or may not work for you and ultimately how efficient you are while riding your bike.
 
I agree with getting properly fit if your having pain.. but I second the recco on the Hbar. I have one, with an adjustable short stem. Super comfy.

A
 
I didn't see the last two lines in your original post until now.....

"Need more info how to select correct size frame also and any advice on the situation with the pain i get after several hour ride.
My ride style is commuting, i am doing food delivery on a bicycle, i don't care much about, top speed and aerodynamics, usually i ride for 8 hours a day...... "

While the suggested remedies listed on this Forum, could very well bring an improvement, since you use your bike for business I would absolutely see a professional bike fitter, (someone who has training and knowledge). In addition to doing a correct fit with you on a shop 'fit bike rig' they will check your bike for correct size etc which is what you want.

I also agree seeing a medical professional to access you specific pains should be in your plan....You have two assets in your delivery
business...Your body and your bike, do the right thing to stay in business. Start with a correct fit.

John in CT
 
@PimpMan As mentioned above speak to a bike expert who knows bikes and has be trained on doing a proper fit. Keep in mind anytime there are issues with a rider's back, suggesting a road style bike or a mountain bike is not going to offer exceptional comfort. Sure you can add extensions etc..... but that does not correct the stresses and bends in persons body by riding such a bike. They were not designed for comfort but rather for their specific application, hence their different geometries.

From what you said this is for food delivery / transportation, Don't put too much emphasis on weight of the the product but rather focus on components, posture and comfort. If your bike is properly set up, you are comfortable and your leg extension is properly set. Your legs will produce more power that more than compensates for a light bicycle that does not not fit your properly or that is uncomfortable to you. People think I am a magician when I get them on a bike that weighs 15 lbs more than their other bike and they find it easier to pedal. It's not the weight, it's how you optimize your body on the bike.

DISCLAIMER HERE: Now if you are doing the Tour De France that is a whole different scenario. :)

Spend some time looking at some of the more upright bikes and touring bikes. Many of the upright bikes nowadays offer adjustable stems which will allow you to change your position (posture) on the bike quickly and easily.

Saddle: Always invest in a saddle designed for your body. A universal saddle designed for men and women needs to be chucked out. Get a saddle that is designed for your gender, designed for the type of bike and your posture on the bike (no cruiser seats on road bikes OK). There are some great saddles that even assist with relieving back pressure off your spine which is what I use and love it. A good saddle will be $60-$80. No you don't need to spend $200-$300 on a saddle.

Suspension Seat-Posts: I like them but I always tell my customers to start with a saddle first, suspension seatpost 2nd. There is no point spending $200-$300 on a suspension seatpost when you have a $10 saddle that doesn't fit you correctly. Spend $60-$80 and ride the bike a few times and if better but not perfect, then look at a suspension seatpost. Day in and day out I see people spending money on seat covers (OMG never do this) and fancy seatposts but skip the saddle. Start slow and talk to an expert!

hope this helps,



Will
shop.scooteretti.com
 
@PimpMan As mentioned above speak to a bike expert who knows bikes and has be trained on doing a proper fit. Keep in mind anytime there are issues with a rider's back, suggesting a road style bike or a mountain bike is not going to offer exceptional comfort. Sure you can add extensions etc..... but that does not correct the stresses and bends in persons body by riding such a bike. They were not designed for comfort but rather for their specific application, hence their different geometries.

From what you said this is for food delivery / transportation, Don't put too much emphasis on weight of the the product but rather focus on components, posture and comfort. If your bike is properly set up, you are comfortable and your leg extension is properly set. Your legs will produce more power that more than compensates for a light bicycle that does not not fit your properly or that is uncomfortable to you. People think I am a magician when I get them on a bike that weighs 15 lbs more than their other bike and they find it easier to pedal. It's not the weight, it's how you optimize your body on the bike.

DISCLAIMER HERE: Now if you are doing the Tour De France that is a whole different scenario. :)

Spend some time looking at some of the more upright bikes and touring bikes. Many of the upright bikes nowadays offer adjustable stems which will allow you to change your position (posture) on the bike quickly and easily.

Saddle: Always invest in a saddle designed for your body. A universal saddle designed for men and women needs to be chucked out. Get a saddle that is designed for your gender, designed for the type of bike and your posture on the bike (no cruiser seats on road bikes OK). There are some great saddles that even assist with relieving back pressure off your spine which is what I use and love it. A good saddle will be $60-$80. No you don't need to spend $200-$300 on a saddle.

Suspension Seat-Posts: I like them but I always tell my customers to start with a saddle first, suspension seatpost 2nd. There is no point spending $200-$300 on a suspension seatpost when you have a $10 saddle that doesn't fit you correctly. Spend $60-$80 and ride the bike a few times and if better but not perfect, then look at a suspension seatpost. Day in and day out I see people spending money on seat covers (OMG never do this) and fancy seatposts but skip the saddle. Start slow and talk to an expert!

hope this helps,



Will
shop.scooteretti.com


Hello Will, Wow, You are spot with your post. I have 'lived' and experienced everything you've written. Your point is very well
taken regarding installing Suspension Seat Posts after test riding the correct first saddle first. My prior enthusiasm was misguided
by the overwhelming improvement the Cirrus BodyFloat brought to my riding experience.

I ride a Trex XM700+ Ebike, for me it was (is) stiff. After a comprehensive professional fit, I felt like I was sitting on a
stump. ( Nothing to do with the fit ) . I was seriously considering returning the bike because of the stiffness and how it
impacted (no pun intended) my back and neck. I installed the Cirrus BodyFloat Seat Post...Bingo a new bike !

Question... I'm always been a fan of Brooks Saddles. I'm considering installing a Brooks Cambium C17. My LBS Mgr / Fitter upgraded and installed a Bontrager Montrose Comp saddle. It's very comfortable and I can ride 'forever' with no pain and neck issues. Your thoughts on a Brooks ?

Thanks,
John from CT
 
Hello @John from Connecticut thank for your comments.

The Brooks saddles have been around for a very long time. While some people swear by them personally they are not a saddle for me. Mostly because with some of their saddles it's takes way too long to break in and well nowadays I prefer instant satisfaction I guess. :)

However, with that being said, Brooks did indeed launch the Cambium as the textile / polymer base offers comfort right out of the box. So it is a nice saddle.

I have personally fitted a lot of customers onto bikes and I am a big fan of the Selle Royal Respiro series of saddles. With the hundreds and hundreds of these saddles I have sold to customer (knock on wood I have yet to refund anyone their money back). These are really wonderful and work exceptionally well for someone who wants to reduce the amount of pressure on their spine. They are available both men's and women's styles and also in 3 variations depending on the riding posure of your bike. For myself I typically ride electric touring and electri cfat bikes and have found the moderate to be ideal for me.

It does have a low center channel that basically allows you muscle / fatty tissue of your bum to absorb any pressure. There is also a vent channel on the front of the saddle that allows for airflow to enter from the front nose of the saddle towards to rear. What happens here is that riders now have a significant reduction of humidity between the thighs and bum area. So one of my favorite features. It is a gel based material so if you leave your bike out in the full sun or exceptionally cold environments this will cause the saddle age quicker than the Cambium I think. But heck I've had mine now for 4 years and other than the logo that's worn off the saddle is in perfect condition after all that riding.

Here is a link if interested in seeing what it looks like on our website: https://shop-usa.scooteretti.com/products/selle-royal-respiro-saddles

I personally love this saddle as it's the only one I have tried that removes any discomfort for me.

Hope this help,


Will
shop.scooteretti.com
 
Hello Will, Wow, You are spot with your post. I have 'lived' and experienced everything you've written. Your point is very well
taken regarding installing Suspension Seat Posts after test riding the correct first saddle first. My prior enthusiasm was misguided
by the overwhelming improvement the Cirrus BodyFloat brought to my riding experience.

I ride a Trex XM700+ Ebike, for me it was (is) stiff. After a comprehensive professional fit, I felt like I was sitting on a
stump. ( Nothing to do with the fit ) . I was seriously considering returning the bike because of the stiffness and how it
impacted (no pun intended) my back and neck. I installed the Cirrus BodyFloat Seat Post...Bingo a new bike !

Question... I'm always been a fan of Brooks Saddles. I'm considering installing a Brooks Cambium C17. My LBS Mgr / Fitter upgraded and installed a Bontrager Montrose Comp saddle. It's very comfortable and I can ride 'forever' with no pain and neck issues. Your thoughts on a Brooks ?

Thanks,
John from CT

Not to derail the thread. You should absolutely try them.
Brooks saddles are so much better than anything once broken in. They supply some specific grease for the leather which will expedite the break-in process to 2-3 days. All my bikes have Brooks. There are literally thousands of pages on the web about people's experience.
Actually I tried Selle Royal Respiro back in 2013 and I have tried the ISM Adamo type saddles but Brooks will win hands down.

The closest in terms of anatomical alignment design and comfort is SQ labs: https://www.sq-lab.com/shop/en/Saddles/

Here is an educational video from SQ labs about saddles:

 
I am experiencing pain in the lower back and in the rear of my neck. Perhaps my bicycle frame is too small, however i am not sure this is only problem - see street bikes riders ride facing down a lot like in swimming you keep your head down, i cannot do that, i tend to look ahead of me 100% of the time (sometimes i ride on sidewalks, also there's holes in the road i want to spot to ride around) it just feels natural to me to know where i am going.

I currently have mountain bike, but handle bars are flat, i was thinking of installing medium hi-rise handle bars but it might look stupid plus not sure how it will affect steering.

Currently i am in the market for new light weight bicycle 15 pounds, so road bicycle is the number one choice, i obviously don't need a drop down handle bars just straight or medium hi-rise.

Need more info how to select correct size frame also and any advice on the situation with the pain i get after several hour ride.

My ride style is commuting, i am doing food delivery on a bicycle, i don't care much about, top speed and aerodynamics, usually i ride for 8 hours a day.

Hi, I too had severe neck and back pain, partcularly the neck, the cause was the crouched over position mandated by my e-mtb's flat bars. I think the styling and therefore the ride position of e-mtb's is a mostly pointless continuation of their non powered mtb roots, specifically the bent forward - head down - reduce wind resistance riding position. No need to worry about the wind on e-mtb's. Sure go ahead, as others have mentioned and get a bike fitting but I suggest you just get high handle bars.
I got mine off a cheap bmx bike - the steering head mounting/bar clamp just all came off and fitted perfecly ...and of course because I now have a straight back and neck - my pain has gone.
As far as the dynamics and handling of my e-mtb with bmx bars goes ...probably better now - I have the riding position not disimilar to a dirt/trail motorcycle. The ability to get my weight forward or back is improved, standing up is delightful, and more generally not being hauled up over the front wheel as a matter of course, due to the low bars, is waaay better. And too the sitting up position offers an improved look about you whether it's of traffic or the trail ahead.
bike1.jpg
 
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The vast majority of cyclist's don't need a high end saddle they need a properly designed and fitted saddle for their body type and riding position.

If a rider selects the proper saddle for their position on the bike and has a saddle that supports the sit bones correctly that is more important than pretty much anything. Never buy a saddle because everyone has it or that it looks cool. There's more important considerations here.

While Brooks and similar companies have been around for ages it's not for everyone. There is a huge following of Brooks saddle lovers and that's awesome, and if you are dedicated and willing to spend the time to set it up, ride in saddle to break it in, you will love it. Remember those leather shoes we use to get from Mom and Dad. Ouch they hurt when new, but eventually they fit us perfectly. I know for myself I remember those blisters at the begining of each new school year and am probably still traumatized by them, anyhow that's another post.... (wow that kinda makes me feel old remembering those days) :)

However, there is also a huge number of people who prefer something that will give them great comfort straight out of the package. How many of us still buy full leather shoes? Just a few I presume from looking into any show store or sporting goods shops.

I hear this on forums and in store all the time where people go out a spend big $$ on leather ones and ergo gel one's in the search for the ultimate saddle. They buy brand "X" because , well it looks cool, online reviews claim it's the best, and riders swear by them which is great. But most people expect fast results and want to be comfortable now and not in 300 miles. We see them come into the shop asking for help as the $$$ saddle they purchased is not ideal and hurts.

The posts above talked about "fit". This is HUGE, as it's super important to properly position your saddle on your bike. It's amazing how we see saddle angles and saddle positions incorrectly installed on a bike. Most people have no idea that a saddle is actually adjustable and should be adjusted for each rider.

There will always be the enthusiasts who are dedicated to their hobby sport, but realistically I have yet to see any significant % of cyclists willing to spend time oiling a leather saddle, tension it, protect it from the elements etc...(think polishing your shoes regualarily like Grandpa use to). For those who want to and are willing to dedicate the time that's awesome you will have a rewarding saddle that fits you like a glove or like a fine pair of italian shoes. The average consumer wants and needs a pair of "Hush Puppies" (not sure that's the best looking brand, but you get the idea).

As mentioned properly fitting / adjsuting the saddle on your bike is super important. The most common issues we see with saddles are:


1 - Saddle / seatpost not set to the correct height. There is a little science involved here and this is typically a 2 person job to get this right. Proper leg extension is key. This is another topic completely and there is lots of content out there that shows how to measure this correctly. If you need a hand, a good shop will have at the very least some tools to measure this. If they don't that's scary.

2- Angle of the saddle is too far down (nose pointing downwards) which typically causes riders to develop pain / fatigue / numbness in the wrists, hand area etc....

3- Angle of the saddle pointing upwards (nose pointing upwards) which we normally see associated with neck, lower back and shoulder pain

4- Improper saddle set back. Set what you say? Yeap, those 2 metal rails under the saddle not only look good they allow for the saddle to be moved both forward and backwards. A good atarting point is to start somewhere near the middle.

There are several theories for how to set this up correctly. For most non competitive riders either one of the methods works just fine. At the shop for a basic fit, we use a plumb bob and place it at the forward part of the clients kneecap and see where it lines up in relation to the pedal spindle. What we are looking for here is to see where this lines up. If the line is in front of the spindle of then the saddle needs to be slid towards the rear. If the line if drops behind the spindle then the saddle needs to be moved forward.

5- Riders installing a suspension seatpost and don't take into account the that the position of the saddle changes when a load is applied to it. Depending on the type of suspension seatpost this can be minor to extreme. So you want to check this out in your owners manual for any recommendations that may have come with your seat post.

With all this being said, don't just go out and start moving everything around on your bike. Start from the basics and learn more about how to adjust these items before doing so. I highly recommend chatting with an expert (online or in store), getting a fit done in store or watching some great videos on Youtube (from a shop that knows how to fit, not some dude in his garage).

There is a lot that a rider can do to improve their level of comfort. Don't just go out an buy a saddle because everyone else has "X" brand or that it looks cool. It's all about fitment to your body type, gender and riding position.

This is why I am such a big fan of saddles that make selecting a saddle easy for consumers. While a high tech saddle and a fitment is the best, very few people will spend $200 - $400 on a saddle and another $150 on a fit. There are quite a few options out here, so just be honest with your ability and the time you want to invest.

If you have the interest and the time to spend adjusting, rubbing oils, tensioning etc.... of a leather saddle then go for it. To prep a leather saddle in 3-4 days takes work and patience, it doesn't just get set up without applying oils, baking it, soaking it etc..... Normally you need anywhere between 300 - 600 miles on it for it to fit you (waiting for a list of messages saying not true but it is) . If done right, you will be rewarded and you will love your leather saddle and probably will never want to part with it.

If you are like the vast majority of people (including myself), you wont spend the time doing it. In my opinion you are better off taking the time to select a saddle that matches your riding position, gender and adjust it properly on the bike. You will be so happy you did.

hope this helps and ride safe everyone,



Will
shop.scooteretti.com
 
A lot about seats there, a lot about nuanced fittings, incremental bar height changes ...I can't help but think this is all a hang over from unpowered bicycles - e bikes and especially e mtb's are a different thing - like the first motor cars were 'designed' or naurally looked like a horse drawn carraiges ...just without the horse attachment, I think e-mtb's are hung up on old bicycle ways. So for example we might wonder why we can't use a motoX dirt-bike type motorcycle seat for an e-mtb - or how it might be adapted rather than starting with a bicycle seat and ever so slowly finding that padding and space works quite well on an e-mtb.
An e-mtb needs big suspension, big tyres, much higher bars and a big padded comfy seat. Simple. Tolerable riding position for 6 hours of unpowered grinding pedal work need not be considered.
 
The vast majority of cyclist's don't need a high end saddle they need a properly designed and fitted saddle for their body type and riding position.

If a rider selects the proper saddle for their position on the bike and has a saddle that supports the sit bones correctly that is more important than pretty much anything. Never buy a saddle because everyone has it or that it looks cool. There's more important considerations here.

While Brooks and similar companies have been around for ages it's not for everyone. There is a huge following of Brooks saddle lovers and that's awesome, and if you are dedicated and willing to spend the time to set it up, ride in saddle to break it in, you will love it. Remember those leather shoes we use to get from Mom and Dad. Ouch they hurt when new, but eventually they fit us perfectly. I know for myself I remember those blisters at the begining of each new school year and am probably still traumatized by them, anyhow that's another post.... (wow that kinda makes me feel old remembering those days) :)

However, there is also a huge number of people who prefer something that will give them great comfort straight out of the package. How many of us still buy full leather shoes? Just a few I presume from looking into any show store or sporting goods shops.

I hear this on forums and in store all the time where people go out a spend big $$ on leather ones and ergo gel one's in the search for the ultimate saddle. They buy brand "X" because , well it looks cool, online reviews claim it's the best, and riders swear by them which is great. But most people expect fast results and want to be comfortable now and not in 300 miles. We see them come into the shop asking for help as the $$$ saddle they purchased is not ideal and hurts.

The posts above talked about "fit". This is HUGE, as it's super important to properly position your saddle on your bike. It's amazing how we see saddle angles and saddle positions incorrectly installed on a bike. Most people have no idea that a saddle is actually adjustable and should be adjusted for each rider.

There will always be the enthusiasts who are dedicated to their hobby sport, but realistically I have yet to see any significant % of cyclists willing to spend time oiling a leather saddle, tension it, protect it from the elements etc...(think polishing your shoes regualarily like Grandpa use to). For those who want to and are willing to dedicate the time that's awesome you will have a rewarding saddle that fits you like a glove or like a fine pair of italian shoes. The average consumer wants and needs a pair of "Hush Puppies" (not sure that's the best looking brand, but you get the idea).

As mentioned properly fitting / adjsuting the saddle on your bike is super important. The most common issues we see with saddles are:


1 - Saddle / seatpost not set to the correct height. There is a little science involved here and this is typically a 2 person job to get this right. Proper leg extension is key. This is another topic completely and there is lots of content out there that shows how to measure this correctly. If you need a hand, a good shop will have at the very least some tools to measure this. If they don't that's scary.

2- Angle of the saddle is too far down (nose pointing downwards) which typically causes riders to develop pain / fatigue / numbness in the wrists, hand area etc....

3- Angle of the saddle pointing upwards (nose pointing upwards) which we normally see associated with neck, lower back and shoulder pain

4- Improper saddle set back. Set what you say? Yeap, those 2 metal rails under the saddle not only look good they allow for the saddle to be moved both forward and backwards. A good atarting point is to start somewhere near the middle.

There are several theories for how to set this up correctly. For most non competitive riders either one of the methods works just fine. At the shop for a basic fit, we use a plumb bob and place it at the forward part of the clients kneecap and see where it lines up in relation to the pedal spindle. What we are looking for here is to see where this lines up. If the line is in front of the spindle of then the saddle needs to be slid towards the rear. If the line if drops behind the spindle then the saddle needs to be moved forward.

5- Riders installing a suspension seatpost and don't take into account the that the position of the saddle changes when a load is applied to it. Depending on the type of suspension seatpost this can be minor to extreme. So you want to check this out in your owners manual for any recommendations that may have come with your seat post.

With all this being said, don't just go out and start moving everything around on your bike. Start from the basics and learn more about how to adjust these items before doing so. I highly recommend chatting with an expert (online or in store), getting a fit done in store or watching some great videos on Youtube (from a shop that knows how to fit, not some dude in his garage).

There is a lot that a rider can do to improve their level of comfort. Don't just go out an buy a saddle because everyone else has "X" brand or that it looks cool. It's all about fitment to your body type, gender and riding position.

This is why I am such a big fan of saddles that make selecting a saddle easy for consumers. While a high tech saddle and a fitment is the best, very few people will spend $200 - $400 on a saddle and another $150 on a fit. There are quite a few options out here, so just be honest with your ability and the time you want to invest.

If you have the interest and the time to spend adjusting, rubbing oils, tensioning etc.... of a leather saddle then go for it. To prep a leather saddle in 3-4 days takes work and patience, it doesn't just get set up without applying oils, baking it, soaking it etc..... Normally you need anywhere between 300 - 600 miles on it for it to fit you (waiting for a list of messages saying not true but it is) . If done right, you will be rewarded and you will love your leather saddle and probably will never want to part with it.

If you are like the vast majority of people (including myself), you wont spend the time doing it. In my opinion you are better off taking the time to select a saddle that matches your riding position, gender and adjust it properly on the bike. You will be so happy you did.

hope this helps and ride safe everyone,



Will
shop.scooteretti.com

Will, Again in my opinion you're spot on....I've been there, done that as they say ( paid for a professional fit ) and it has made all the difference
in the world for riding comfort. You wrote.....

"If a rider selects the proper saddle for their position on the bike and has a saddle that supports the sit bones correctly that is more important than pretty much anything. Never buy a saddle because everyone has it or that it looks cool. There's more important considerations here. "

Thanks to my LBS Mgr / Pro Fitter he did just as you stated, selected the proper saddle and I can ride 'forever', well 2-3 hours until my battery is done. When I bought my bike, my LBS did a basic fit, I rode for a week -ish- just to get the feel of the bike, returned and we did the real fit.

I'll never forget the feeling of the initial post fit ride and how the correct leg extension felt. I thought I was on a different bike it was so great. As for a Brooks saddle for me, what I have works and works very well. I think I stick with it.

I hope this forum was helpful to others, I know it was very helpful for me. Thank you Will for your input, much appreciated.

John from CT
 
Will, Again in my opinion you're spot on....I've been there, done that as they say ( paid for a professional fit ) and it has made all the difference
in the world for riding comfort. You wrote.....

"If a rider selects the proper saddle for their position on the bike and has a saddle that supports the sit bones correctly that is more important than pretty much anything. Never buy a saddle because everyone has it or that it looks cool. There's more important considerations here. "

Thanks to my LBS Mgr / Pro Fitter he did just as you stated, selected the proper saddle and I can ride 'forever', well 2-3 hours until my battery is done. When I bought my bike, my LBS did a basic fit, I rode for a week -ish- just to get the feel of the bike, returned and we did the real fit.

I'll never forget the feeling of the initial post fit ride and how the correct leg extension felt. I thought I was on a different bike it was so great. As for a Brooks saddle for me, what I have works and works very well. I think I stick with it.

I hope this forum was helpful to others, I know it was very helpful for me. Thank you Will for your input, much appreciated.

John from CT


I really don't think you guys, (Will and John) are looking out enough. John I'm sure the fitting did as you say but all of the fitting malarchy just fades to nothing when you get higher bars and and a big padded comfy seat. Sure the seat height, tilt and longtitudinal position makes a difference but you don't need a pro fitting to figure that out since with the upright position and comfy behind comes obvious options - like you have in your car seat position. Maybe the odd person may need help but the range and options are dead obvious. I mean motorcyclists don't have any of this fitting business going on and while e-mtb's are not motorcycles they are sure not entirely bicycles either. The whole head down pedalling comfort thing just isn't a thing. Sit up and back and stand or not and put your seat where it's good and way you go. More broadly I think we're so fortunate since we get to experience most of good bits of bicycling ...and at least a little of motorcycling's charms ...and that charming motorcycling goodness is comfort. If you're riding an e-mtb with a normal narrow hard horrid seat and flat bars - well ...that's only half the cherry.
Anyhow, cheers. Scott.
 
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I will suggest the two things I suggest to everyone in order to ensure comfort:

  • NC-17 Trekking handlebars (awesome rise & sweep)
  • Serfas Rx Cruiser seat (just a really comfortable seat)

I've been using this combination (plus MX-80 Saint pedals) on all my bikes.
 
I will suggest the two things I suggest to everyone in order to ensure comfort:

  • NC-17 Trekking handlebars (awesome rise & sweep)
  • Serfas Rx Cruiser seat (just a really comfortable seat)

I've been using this combination (plus MX-80 Saint pedals) on all my bikes.

Sounds good, do you mean you have an e-mtb too which you have done that to? ..haha and I checked those bars out, could you imagine going higher? See I reckon there's a corollary with the current motorcycle world where there's arguably a new thing, 120 min hp sticky tyred, big braked ...trail bikes. They offer a straight back sitting up and too down 'in' the bike (e.g kwaka Versys 1000 ) - just think big trail bike riding, with the bars out front, a riding position pretty much too of touring bikes. And these things are the rage since they're just as quick on roads where only crazy speeds and race track levels of corner committent benefit from a head over the front wheel. And so riders of these new bikes are comfortable and fast.

Which is to say the the advantage - the only advantage - of having clip ons on a motorcycle, or in our case, of having flat bars on our e-mtb, is only found where few are able or willing to go. Meantime. we'd have been pointlessly contorted, and likely creating or aggravating arthritis.

So yeah try even higher bars? ...if I've gone too far, and I'm not really thinking I have, it's only an inch. :)
 
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