Major Problem - Can't find...

Nvreloader

Western Nevada
Region
USA
Ok Guys
I have a major problem, in that I want to replace my 2009 Montague rigid fork for general purpose riding suspension fork.
The spec's for the replacement fork are:
1-1/8" x 26 tpi, (threaded)
spring type,
"V" type brakes,
26" wheel size.

Some of the ones I am looking at are:
(1st choice)
SR Suntour XCM 1 1/8" Threaded Suspension Fork, 180mm Steerer Length
PART NUM 409073

(2nd choice)
SR Suntour XCM Suspension Fork: 26", 1-1/8" Threaded Steerer, 100mm Travel, Linear Pull and Disc, Black, PART NUM 292827

RST Capa-T 26" Suspension Fork - 1-1/8" Threaded Steerer
PART NUM 687093

RST Capa-T 26" Suspension Fork, 1-1/8", 250/50mm, QR9, 80mm, Black
PART NUM 382444

SR Suntour XCM HLO Suspension Fork: 26", 1-1/8" Threadless Steerer, 100mm Travel, 100x9mm, Linear Pull and Disc, Black
PART NUM 235272

I have found several that will fit EXCEPT for this major problem,
I have a 1/8" key way running from the top of the fork, down several inches
thru the threaded area, to an unknown.

Why this keyway is there is unknown to me.

There are NO threaded forks that have this key way?

Is there a work around for this key way?

Can a nonthreaded fork be threaded to1-1/8" x 26 tpi, and still work on this bike??

Your thoughts or suggestions...
Tia,
 
IIRC, that keyway is for a big washer with a tab on it that fits into the keyway.
The tab in the keyway keeps the washer (which may also include a bracket that holds the brake cable in front or reflector) from spinning when you tighten up the headset.

If the washer turns, it could spin the the nut below it and overtighten the headset bearing.

The two headset nuts lock together with the tabbed washer in between.

You might be able to get a different style of steerer tube nuts that don't require the notched steerer tube.
If fact, there must be a way to tighten everything properly because forks are being sold without the notch.

The steerer tube nuts are too thin to get a regular wrench on it with enough clearance.
There is probably a special thin wrench available to fit in there to hold the bottom nut while you tighten the top nut with a regular wrench
 
Last edited:
Thanks PC
My bike does NOT have the keyed lock washer, I have just 2 nuts with a hard rubber "O" ring between the nuts that tighten/jamb together to set the head stem tension.

I am having a very hard time finding 1-1/8" threaded suspension front forks for/with the "V" brakes attachment posts.

I am hoping that, I can thread a non threaded fork stem, lots of these type of susp forks for "V" or Disc brake attachment points.
Back to researching...
 
My bike does NOT have the keyed lock washer, I have just 2 nuts with a hard rubber "O" ring between the nuts that tighten/jamb together to set the head stem tension.

If you've pulled your headset apart and found nothing sliding into the slot in your head tube (nothing with a tab), then you'll be fine with a fork with a non slotted head tube.
 
,.. with a hard rubber "O" ring between the nuts that tighten/jamb together to set the head stem tension.

Check that "O" ring.
It might not be rubber and it may have a tab,..


DSC_0125_0608d463-00c3-4e60-9e49-47d81fc6a29c_1200x1200-2812795927.jpg
Screenshot_20240927-001826_DuckDuckGo.jpg
Screenshot_20240927-001919_DuckDuckGo.jpg
 
PC
Checked that flat ring, it's steel, with no locking tab like you show.
I am NOT sure that those lock nuts can be tighten down and hold.
There is not a lot of pressure on these nuts.

I sent an email to 365 cycles that has this Sun tour susp front fork,
asking some questions, about this fork fitting my bike.
Waiting for a reply back.

 
PC
Checked that flat ring, it's steel, with no locking tab like you show.
I am NOT sure that those lock nuts can be tighten down and hold.
There is not a lot of pressure on these nuts.

If there is no locking tab then you'll probably need a special thin wrench to hold the lower bearing race while you tighten the upper lock nut.

(Example picture,..)

Screenshot_20240927-001340_DuckDuckGo.jpg


The tricky part is holding the lower lock nut/bearing race steady while tightening the upper so that they don't both rotate and overtighten the bearings.

I remember using a big adjustable wrench on the lower trying to hold it still. It didn't work very good.
 
Yep
I happen to have a couple of 36mm thin wrenches from past Honda work, so I am set up there.
Be aware that switching to a suspension fork will considerably raise your front end and alter your frame geometry.
Biker G
I am going by the information from Montague, these 2 bikes are the same except for the number of gear and tire sizes, and have the same frames sizes etc.

See info here:
So I believe that everything will be close enough
Thanks,
 
Also, I don't have to worry about the locking groove cut into the threads or the tabbed locking washer.
I found out that a locking ring can be made out of a standard ring via the addition of 3 pointed cone set screws drilled/tapped into 3 sides of the flats on the top locking ring part, after everything is adjusted correctly.

I have this suspension fork coming for the new bike,
SR SUNTOUR FORK SRST 26 XCM COIL 1-1/8 180/55 QR9 M-BK DISC/CANTI 2013 SF13-XCM- V3 26
SR SUNTOUR FORK SRST 26 XCM COIL 1-1/8 180/55 QR9 M-BK DISC/CANTI 2013 SF13-XCM- V3 26
SR SUNTOUR
SKU: 10-28376
$117.10
ymmv
 
,.. a locking ring can be made out of a standard ring via the addition of 3 pointed cone set screws drilled/tapped into 3 sides of the flats on the top locking ring part, after everything is adjusted correctly.

That makes sense.
I've never seen that but it sounds like a great idea.
 
Cable hangers for front cantilever brakes also require keyed steerer tubes and are usually fitted in place of the keyed headset washer.
 
Cantis are old school…. before linear pull (V-brakes) became popular back in the 90’s.

Here‘s a photo of a cable hanger.
IMG_0528.jpeg
 
My old e-bike has one of those.
It's kind of a cable management device and a basket was bolted on the end.

20241001_142636.jpg


I removed the basket.
It was fricken embarrassing. 😂
 
I am having a very hard time finding 1-1/8" threaded suspension front forks for/with the "V" brakes attachment posts.

I am hoping that, I can thread a non threaded fork stem, lots of these type of susp forks for "V" or Disc brake attachment points.
Back to researching...
Convert to disk brakes if you can't find forks with those posts for v-brakes? Unless you have disks and want those posts for a front rack.

I've tried to cut extra threads on a threaded steerer tube. Very very hard steel, I needed a $75 hardened die and only had a pipe wrench die.

What you can do is install a 1-1/8" threadless fork. You'll have to buy a headset to get the parts. Also change your handlebars from a quill to a threadless stem. Not very expensive at all. Kind of fun too, That was my solution with my threaded fork that was too long. I was able to remove the threaded section and it became a threadless fork,

You probably don't have to use the cups in the headset, They're probably the same as the cups in the existing bike's threaded headset, but it's not hard to tap out the old cups and press in the new ones. Use a 1/2" threaded rod with washers and nuts to push in the new cups, All described on youtube,
 
Harry
Thank you for that information, I finally found a suspension fork that will fit this new bike, just waiting for it to get here.
SR SUNTOUR FORK SRST 26 XCM COIL 1-1/8 180/55 QR9 M-BK DISC/CANTI 2013 SF13-XCM- V3 26
10-28376
This fork has all the required spec's to fit this bike, plus I can add disc brakes which I plan to do, as soon as the rat hole funds catch up with the spending funds. lol
Thanks
 
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