How do you clean your chain?

[Mike_V]

Seasonally
2022 Summer:
{$19.98} one clean chrome plated 9S immersed in Gulf Wax Paraffin ( do not clean )

 

[newts]

Does the motor drive the pedal axle or does it drive the cog? If it drives the cog, then that would explain it, because the motor might, at times, be driving the cog faster than you are pedaling. So relative to the speed of the cog, you'd be pedaling "backwards". Now if the pedal was locked to the cog your pedaling at a slower rate would be fighting the motor which is trying to propel the cog forward at a faster rate. Possibly, not sure...

Yes exactly my thought explained in more detail. Especially on the Gazelle I hear a few clicks when I stop pedaling.

 

[landonphd]

@fooferdoggie , @Alaskan : What kind of stand are you guys using? I have a Park Tool stand which I purchased about 20 years ago when I was riding a meBike, but it doesn't seem durable enough to hold the weight of an eBike. What do you recommend?

I'll be interested to hear about this as well.

I have started using my vehicle bike rack to elevate the bike for cleaning/lubing because I haven't found a rack that will support my e-bike without tipping. The vehicle rack works to elevate the bike and allows me to wash the bike and clean/lube the chain, except, to get the whole chain, I have to lift the bike and rotate the pedals simultaneously which takes a lot of upper body strength. A stand would work better. Also, I'm concerned about damaging the finishing of the rear panels of the vehicle if I'm not careful and allow the degreaser/lubricant to splatter. At least, the bike wash makes the rear end of our SUV look a whole lot cleaner than the rest of the vehicle.

 

[Stefan Mikes]

I do not make a PhD for chain cleaning. On dry season, I clean and lube the chain once a week or after any long ride.

Just turning either of my e-bikes upside down, putting it on the bars and saddle (you can pedal a mid-drive in this position). A rag in my hand, and a container with a degreaser in the other. I mark the position of the chain master link, put the rag the way I protect the bike against being sprayed at and apply the degreaser from the derailleur to the chainring. A delicate movement of the pedal to move the chain to the next section and so on until I can see the master link again.

After degreasing, I keep the rag around the chain and vigorously pedal. First, I wipe the chain sides, then the top and bottom. The chain becomes visibly clean. Then I apply the "dry" lube in the spray exactly with the same technique. It is essential to wipe the chain thoroughly after the process. Eventually, I let the chain dry.

If this is the cold season, I apply the wet lube by putting a droplet of the oil on each roller only. And wipe the chain carefully.

As good technique as any unless one needs to have a clinically clean chain.

 

[Alaskan]

Why lube both sides? I think you're only supposed to lube the side that contacts the chain ring and let gravity and the carrier do it's work getting the lube in the roller.

Also why lube the cassette?

FWIW, I also use Muc Off C3 Dry Ceramic and my chain is still going strong at 2500 miles with no sign of wear. Muc Off performed the best in this test:

The Muc Off instructions say to fully de-grease before applying, but in-between cleanings I do a mini clean wiping off the chain with a clean rag (it surprises me how much Muc Off C3 accumulates for a dry lube) and throw another drop on top of each link and let it dry overnight.

Some of the other lubes like Rock-n-roll actually suggest wiping off the chain after each ride:

The ultrasonic cleaner cleans out all the interior voids in the chain, even between the pins and rollers, leaving it absolutely dry and very ready to rust. Also the rollers do just that...roll. They do not stay in the same orientation to the inside or outside of the chain, After a thorough cleaning, I want all outer and inner surfaces to get a protective layer of lube on them. So after cleaning, I lube it on both sides and spin it all around to make sure it gets distributed everywhere. After that, between cleanings, I just lube the inside.
As to the cassette, I want all moving metal to metal contact points to have the protection afforded by lubricant, both against wear as well as against water.

 

[Prairie Dog]

I gave up on chain tool cleaners such as the one Park Tool sells as I found that it was using too much cleaning agent since the chain usually requires several fresh batches of solution before it’s relatively free of grit. Best method for me with respect to cleaning a grimy drive train post ride would be to have the appropriate chain brush/tools on hand and a bucket of soapy water with a spray bottle of cleaning agent to only enhance the process. I usually pay special attention to the guide/tension wheels as they accumulate muck like you wouldn’t believe even in dry ride conditions. After all, why leave the other components untouched when they will just mess up your clean chain? I attach a dummy hub wheel through the bike axle which allows me to freely spin and clean the chain and drive components at the same time.



Rinse off the chain, pulleys, crank with clean water and wipe off with a rag. I like to thoroughly dry everything off using an air compressor and blow gun that I have hooked up in the garage. Since I have the bike on a stand, I also remove the wheel and clean the cassette in the same manner as well as it’s easier done than if it’s on the bike. I’ll use this method on my road bike as well as my e-mtb. The entire process may take me 15 minutes from start to finish and usually perform the task every 400-600km or less depending on the conditions. I realize this may not be everyone's method of choice but it works for me.

I have used an ultrasonic cleaner in the past during the winter months but it is a bit time consuming and requires removal of the chain. Though when it's done, it's like putting on a brand new chain.

 

[rich c]

The only wear points on a roller chain are the pin inside the roller and the inside of the roller. Maybe just a slight wear on the outside diameter of the roller. Anywhere else and you are just collecting dirt and grime. Just a drop on the end of the roller so it wicks into the center of the roller is what I do, and I get 3,000 miles per chain. https://diamondchain.com/understanding-wear-life/

 

[6zfshdb]

There are about as many ways to clean & maintain a chain as there are folks who ride bikes. All of us have our own particular regimen.

Every hundred miles or so, I twist the chain between my thumb and forefinger to get a "feel" for how much grit is in the rollers.

When it's time, I clean the chain with a Park Cyclone cleaner, CB4 fluid, followed by several applications of dish detergent.

It's amazing just how much crap a chain picks up:

Before lubing but AFTER cleaning, I check the chain for wear using a Park CC-4 Gauge. You can get false readings when measuring a dirty chain due to debris in the rollers.
In this case, the chain has more than .75" of play and I'll replace it at the end of this season.

 

[Camasonian]

I haven't had my Vado long enough to go through a chain cleaning. On my other bikes I do a complete tear-down and overhaul about once a year and clean the chain, derailleurs, cluster, and other parts in an ultrasonic cleaner then re-lube and install. I also replace all the cables every couple years. I'll do the same thing with the Vado when the time comes. I'm curious to see how much faster I go through chains with the Vado since there is so much more horsepower on that chain than on my regular bikes.

 

[Pork Rind]

I live in a dry climate which makes things easier, but after years of maintaining motorcycle chains, I ran out of motivation to continue with cleaning a bike chain. I switched to waxing, specifically the Silca wax. Their story about the lubricant particles they add is interesting, but the key to my choice was that it comes in a sous-vide bag, meaning I can boil the bag with the chain in it in a pot of water on a stove. Couldn't get much simpler. Since then I've changed to the crock pot method only because I found one in our attic.

Once every 3 or 4 hundred miles when I'm doing some other work in the garage, I pop the chain off and let it sit in the wax for 20 minutes. After I reinstall it, the most maintenance I do is a wipe with a dry rag when I'm cleaning off the bike.

Bonus: last time I got a flat tire, I was able to remove the rear wheel and change the tube and my hands didn't get dirty at all!

 

[Dazmanturbo]

Here in the UK, they sell a chain lube called Revolubes. It is effectively an industrial dry lube suspended in a carrier oil. You put on a clean oil free chain with the attached dropper and then wipe off the carrier oil. This leaves a hard coating in the chain which acts as lubrication (i seem to remember it is calcium disulphinate or similar). The overall effect is a bone dry chain, which no dirt can stick to, but dead silent and shiny clean. Used this for over 4000 mile on my Creo with Zero ill effects. I tend to re-apply every 500 miles or so. Still on my first 50ml bottle and got a third left

 

[Taylor57]

Simple question - how do you clean your chain? How often do you clean your chain?

The related question is why don't e-bikes freewheel the front cog backwards? This obviously makes cleaning the chain difficult, hence my original question.

Thanks for your advice!

Rock and Roll lube every month or so...

 

[BioWheel]

Rock and Roll lube every month or so...

I prefer Rock and Roll lube too. But a lot more than every month. Of course - depends on how much you ride. I will say, the label on R&R Lube says to wipe it after application but I've found it's better to leave a bunch on the chain.

 

[tomjasz]

Simple question - how do you clean your chain? How often do you clean your chain?

New chain every season. $20. Treated with Boeshield or ACF50.

 

[6zfshdb]

New chain every season. $20. Treated with Boeshield or ACF50.

Exactly!

I can't see spending a bunch of bucks to maintain a $20 chain.

 

[BioWheel]

Please send link for $20 Vado SL chain.

 

[6zfshdb]

Please send link for $20 Vado SL chain.

For the Vado SL, you'll pay $33:

Shimano CN-M7100 SLX 12-Speed Chain

<font color="red"><b>***Sorry, due to supply chain issues, we are currently limiting sales to 2 chains per order.</font></b> The M7100 chain provides enhanced chain retention thanks to an...

www.webcyclery.com

For the rest of us, not so much.

 

[YoGe]

With regard to turning the front cog backwards - here's what I received from Rider Care:

Hello and thanks for reaching out! Regarding spinning the front chainring backwards with the bike turned off you are totally fine to do so! With it free spinning there is a tool on the market to hold hold the chainring in place against the crank so it spins with the crank when you backpedal so you can clean/lube the chain. It is made by Muc-Off and I will link it below! Alternatively you can also use an Allen key and put it inside one of the chainring bolts (same as the tool does) to essentially do the same thing. Your zip tie idea would also work too it sounds like! All you're essentially doing is like you said, locking the chainring to the crank so that it goes backwards with the crank instead of free spinning. I hope this helps you to know what method will be ideal for you and reassure you that it will not negatively affect the bike/motor! I personally just use an Allen key to do it, but either way! Let me know if you need me to clarify or have any more questions. Thanks and have a great evening!

Muc-Off Tool - https://us.muc-off.com/products/ebike-drivetrain-crank-tool

 

[YoGe]

I just got the Park Tool kit so from now on I'll use that to clean the chain every couple of weeks or so; I do about 120 - 150 mi per week.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Z8JH85V

Also, in the past I've changed the chain and the cassette annually; I usually do that around Feb or March, in preparation for the new season. Something to do when there is snow on the ground.

I gotta admit - with my last bike - Bulls E-Stream EVO - I almost never :-( cleaned the chain. I did lube it with motor oil a few times during the season, but aside from that nothing except changing the chain annually. To be sure though, with the strength of the motor, I wasn't doing much shifting. I was 98% of the time in the highest gear. With the Creo though, it's a different ballgame. The motor is outputting much less wattage and so I am relying much more on shifting as the terrain changes. So I feel like I should be doing more to keep the chain in good condition.

Thanks all for your advice!

 

[kahn]

With regard to turning the front cog backwards - here's what I received from Rider Care:

Hello and thanks for reaching out! Regarding spinning the front chainring backwards with the bike turned off you are totally fine to do so! With it free spinning there is a tool on the market to hold hold the chainring in place against the crank so it spins with the crank when you backpedal so you can clean/lube the chain. It is made by Muc-Off and I will link it below! Alternatively you can also use an Allen key and put it inside one of the chainring bolts (same as the tool does) to essentially do the same thing. Your zip tie idea would also work too it sounds like! All you're essentially doing is like you said, locking the chainring to the crank so that it goes backwards with the crank instead of free spinning. I hope this helps you to know what method will be ideal for you and reassure you that it will not negatively affect the bike/motor! I personally just use an Allen key to do it, but either way! Let me know if you need me to clarify or have any more questions. Thanks and have a great evening!

Muc-Off Tool - https://us.muc-off.com/products/ebike-drivetrain-crank-tool

THANKS for sharing their reply. It is reassuring that some of us are not damaging our bikes.

I did get that muc-off tool. I guess an allen key means not adding yet another item to my collection.