I have recently inherited a 2014 Pedago City Commuter Gen2 that hadn't been ridden in 7 years. I am not getting power to anything. The battery appears to be in working order, showing a full charge on the voltage button when not on the bike; it ceases to register on the voltage button once inserted in the system. I am told my issue may be to replace the controller. However, I am not finding controller 4818DLC-84V1 anywhere. Could anyone offer any advice on other possibilities for diagnosing and repairing the electronic system or finding a controller (Pedago doesn't carry them anymore). Many thanks to all of you!
Hello All;
- Thread starter jlehman
- Start date
AHicks
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
- City
- Snow Bird - Summer S.E. Michigan, Winter Gulf Coast North Central Fl.
Might be time to get a volt meter out to confirm you do have a full charge. Clearly that battery is getting older. I would not trust what one of those button indicators was showing. At best, they are very low quality. Assuming you did have proper voltage (something around 54 volts if this is a 48 volt battery), have a look at the connector, where the battery plugs in, and from there just follow the power....
tomjasz
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- USA
- City
- Minnesnowta
No power from the battery leads? If yes it's not likely the controller.
tomjasz
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
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- Minnesnowta
just like Bafang pre-2016 motors...
The battery leads show 58v. I tested the separate leads that go into the controller from the battery and they showed no continuity.
AHicks
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
- City
- Snow Bird - Summer S.E. Michigan, Winter Gulf Coast North Central Fl.
Is there any trace of a fuse on the battery case? How adventuresome are you? Do you think you could remove the battery case safely? If so, you may be able to identify why the leads going to the controller don't have power. Thinking a fuse or a broken lead would be no surprise....
tomjasz
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- Minnesnowta
I don't know if it's accurate from the youtube video I watched, but at 10:20 in it showed me how to check that (and the three colored output lines). The 3 output lines registered fine as per the video; the input line, which would be fed by the battery into the controller, didn't register anything. IDK?
sorry..........here is the video link:
indianajo
Well-Known Member
You can load test a battery with resistors & a DVM. for a 48 v battery I used three 5 ohm 250 w resistors series (I had for PA amplifier tests) and a DVM. Two batteries would not sustain >40 v even with the 3 amp load that provides. Do this test outside on concrete, LiIon batteries can catch fire and the only extinguisher is piles of dirt.
If battery is okay, then you look for a controller. No way you are ever going to match a controller by number, if Pedego stiffed you. You can maybe match up the connectors to the motor, motor hall effect sensors, brake switches, throttle, and PAS sensor. I've recently found connectors to the sensors from 2018 are totally unavailale on ebay or amazon. Since my 2018 controller quit, to use a controller I can buy I've had to replace the throttle for one with a rectangular connector, give up the PAS sensor ( since scooter controllers don't have them) and I still haven't found the square plastic connectors for the brake handle harness. I also had to jimmy an input for a "door switch" which is some kind of scooter gizmo that works like an ignition switch. The juli connector motors I'm buying now require a converter harness to the 6 pin rectangular hall effect connector on the controllers I can buy. Plus the 3 bullet connectors for the phase wires (available from dorman at most auto supplies like oreillys). I found could buy a kit of rectangular connectors on ebay that I could solder instead of crimping. Juli connectors are molded, totally impossible to modify the pinout. Happy shopping.
If battery is okay, then you look for a controller. No way you are ever going to match a controller by number, if Pedego stiffed you. You can maybe match up the connectors to the motor, motor hall effect sensors, brake switches, throttle, and PAS sensor. I've recently found connectors to the sensors from 2018 are totally unavailale on ebay or amazon. Since my 2018 controller quit, to use a controller I can buy I've had to replace the throttle for one with a rectangular connector, give up the PAS sensor ( since scooter controllers don't have them) and I still haven't found the square plastic connectors for the brake handle harness. I also had to jimmy an input for a "door switch" which is some kind of scooter gizmo that works like an ignition switch. The juli connector motors I'm buying now require a converter harness to the 6 pin rectangular hall effect connector on the controllers I can buy. Plus the 3 bullet connectors for the phase wires (available from dorman at most auto supplies like oreillys). I found could buy a kit of rectangular connectors on ebay that I could solder instead of crimping. Juli connectors are molded, totally impossible to modify the pinout. Happy shopping.
So the Pedago repair folks have been up the food chain with the above question and, after 2 months of attempts at pedago adapters and controllers and etc. etc. have come to the conclusion that they will have to totally gut the electronics in favor of a total rewire to the tune of $800. Really? Anyone have any other ideas.......knock off controller for the 4818DLC-84V1?...............anything?
AHicks
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
- City
- Snow Bird - Summer S.E. Michigan, Winter Gulf Coast North Central Fl.
That video is having you check the controller INPUT wires for voltage? The video is not in English so it's hard for me to understand how those wire might have voltage when the battery is clearly disconnected. With no battery, where is the voltage supposed to be coming from?
Not knowing anything more than the age of the battery, coupled with the fact it hasn't been used in quite some time, would make the battery my first guess. I would want to see voltage at the 2 larger leads coming from the battery. How much voltage would depend on the size of the bettery and it's state of charge. The smaller 3rd wire is probably of little consequence at this point.
AHicks
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
- City
- Snow Bird - Summer S.E. Michigan, Winter Gulf Coast North Central Fl.
It's highly unlikely you're going to find a direct replacement for your existing controller. There are a lot of us that have converted to the KT brand controllers and displays (you'll need both), but that project is not for the faint of heart. There's no directions, so you'll need to be familiar with your bike's systems, or be willing to learn them.
That said, are you willing to share why you believe your battery is OK?
That said, are you willing to share why you believe your battery is OK?
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