DIY battery kit components

tomjasz

Well-Known Member
Region
USA
City
Minnesnowta
Kinda cool stuff. I'm doing a couple of small packs. Just because I can....
Still need a BMS and miscellaneous bits, but NO welding!
Message me for more information. I'm not the seller. Just like the fellows and they are working hard to have a great product. East Indian, educated engineers from America schools.
http://www.vruzend.in/product.htm
[email protected]
$19 plus shipping!
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What ah will that give us Thomas? 21 cells?

Pity they didn`t make the interconnects copper.
 
What ah will that give us Thomas? 21 cells?

Pity they didn`t make the interconnects copper.
Well everyone goes on about copper but show me. Who does use copper?
Thats justban example. A 7s3p, 7s= 24v pack, for a kids Schwinn scooter. NOS 2200Mah cells from a 3m projector. Not for high amp controllers.
 
Well everyone goes on about copper but show me. Who does use copper?

I`m corresponding with Insat International in London about their 17.5Ah Tiger Shark battery, this is their latest email....

"The TS 17.Ah is my most popular build and using copper interconnects 0.3mm x 12 mm is the ultimate. Nobody else offer copper interconnected GA celled batteries that we build. The difference is well worth it with the highest power and lowest heat and maximum cycle life.

Our price is £425 for the build using the Smartec 25A continuous current BMS."

Thomas. rather than deal with dubious chinese quality i`ll go with this guy, they have got a lot of praise from the ebike community this end.
 
I`m corresponding with Insat International in London about their 17.5Ah Tiger Shark battery, this is their latest email....

"The TS 17.Ah is my most popular build and using copper interconnects 0.3mm x 12 mm is the ultimate. Nobody else offer copper interconnected GA celled batteries that we build. The difference is well worth it with the highest power and lowest heat and maximum cycle life.

Our price is £425 for the build using the Smartec 25A continuous current BMS."

Thomas. rather than deal with dubious chinese quality i`ll go with this guy, they have got a lot of praise from the ebike community this end.
The industry standard and from top USA manufacturers is pure nickel. We know that copper is a better conductor, but pretty much unavailable due to the manufacturing techniques needed to weld copper. To somehow imply that a nickel strip pack is inferior or subject to higher heat is malarky. A properly designed pack will not overload the nickel links. Copper will not inherently extend the life of a pack.

Would you be kind enough to like this battery maker? When I search Insat International in London I get a satellite company.

Thanks for the cost and paste. I'd like to see the battery and where is is available! It certainly is an innovation if widely available.

Thanks again,

Tom
 
OK found them, WOW on the battery prices!
I don't see any packs or links to packs. More info please?
Spoke with two builders and their concern with copper was high corrosion and softness and tearing. I'd think corrosion could be the killer. But want to learn more.


(Link Removed - No Longer Exists)
 
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Tom,

check the first one in this google list - there`s more info in their ebay listing..

https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=I...firefox-b&gfe_rd=cr&ei=EVL2WL6IOMOT8QfxzrnYDQ

and here.. https://twitter.com/bgainsat?lang=en

also they are saying..

"Furthermore, I am the only battery builder currently using copper interconnects for the ultimate battery. Everyone else uses nickel. Copper is the best conductor of electrical current at 100% and nickel at 22%. If you do a search on conductivity of metals you will get the idea. With copper the power is higher, less volts drop, less heat and ultimate battery life.

In the very near future, I will be receiving a shipment of the latest cases such as the Tiger Shark. Still, the Dolphin case is the most expensive of the lot including Hailong and Tiger Shark.

The cost of the build including USB 5V output would be £425 with a 2A charger and delivery. We also provide a discharge graph at a continuous 10A discharge current. The BMS is a continuous 25A current rate by Smartec.


I agree that copper is a softish material but its conductive properties far outweigh that
 
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Tom,

check the first one in this google list - there`s more info in their ebay listing..

https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=I...firefox-b&gfe_rd=cr&ei=EVL2WL6IOMOT8QfxzrnYDQ

also they are saying..

"Furthermore, I am the only battery builder currently using copper interconnects for the ultimate battery. Everyone else uses nickel. Copper is the best conductor of electrical current at 100% and nickel at 22%. If you do a search on conductivity of metals you will get the idea. With copper the power is higher, less volts drop, less heat and ultimate battery life.

In the very near future, I will be receiving a shipment of the latest cases such as the Tiger Shark. Still, the Dolphin case is the most expensive of the lot including Hailong and Tiger Shark.

The cost of the build including USB 5V output would be £425 with a 2A charger and delivery. We also provide a discharge graph at a continuous 10A discharge current. The BMS is a continuous 25A current rate by Smartec.


I agree that copper is a softish material but its conductive properties far outweigh that

I think what you're missing is that adequate nickel is used to NOT lose current or create a bottleneck where heat can build. Have a look at the build videos from Micah Toll.
Specifically nickel layout. While I agree with the principle, I find it hard to swallow that one vendor has the only layout that is efficient. Allcell and ALL the most recognized battery builders, including Tesla, use nickel. If it works for Tesla...

Thanks for the info. $543 is a nice price! What is shipping to the USA?

It looks like you've found a battery to make you happy! All good!

https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=ebikeschool
 
C5tZZWVXQAEoZuM.jpg

This is the guy at work, uses a Sunstone welder, from the US if im not mistaken.

Ckeck that Twitter page in my last post too.
 
This is the guy at work, uses a Sunstone welder, from the US if im not mistaken.

Ckeck that Twitter page in my last post too.
Roy, any data on shipping costs or N American availability?
 
Bike pack? VBG

No, a pack for some Solar powered venture...

Chief engineer Jimmy working hard on the battery pack (408 cells,12p 34s) for Cambridge Uni to use at the World Solar Challenge

but getting back to your first post i do like the idea of being able to DIY, you can choose your own cells, bms etc, and it seems the size to drop into your carrier bag with little fuss, reminds me of that mini pack Luna do.
 
I'm afraid that orders link is for a satellite company. I think this is more malarky than good practice.

No, that`s the email address i`ve been corresponding with them for weeks now, try it.

(possibly they have a sister satellite tv outlet as well?)
 
Getting back to the original concept of the Vruzend home pack, I wonder how that friction fit will work when the cells get warm. Maybe he should have bigger dedicated modules available, like 4x4 and 4x3, which would give him a stiffer construction.

They use nickel here for its better corrosion protection. Copper interconnects and screw terminals turn green.

Finally, the packaging of a 36V 10S-3P as a 3x10 array would be a lot larger than I want with the overhead required for the end blocks. Emulating the Luna Mini, which is a 52V 14S-2P would use a 4x7 array, again, much bigger than the Mini. On the other hand, you could use a fan and blow air between the cells.

Good for someone who has individual cells. It also seems relatively immune to wiring short circuits.

If I were serious about home-built batteries, I'd get the spot welder.
 
Getting back to the original concept of the Vruzend home pack, I wonder how that friction fit will work when the cells get warm. Maybe he should have bigger dedicated modules available, like 4x4 and 4x3, which would give him a stiffer construction..
I suspect the Vruzend would be potentially cooler since the cells are not glued together shrink wrap case to case. Personally I'm sizing the pack and using cells in my application where I shouldn't see excess heat. Running up to 30A with an properly sized and specified packs there shouldn't be any excess heat. I don'y have one of 9 packs that gets beyond ambient temps in the summer.


They use nickel here for its better corrosion protection. Copper interconnects and screw terminals turn green. .
Agreed on the copper. There are lots of reasons many copper types are a bad choice for eBike packs. Corrosion is a big problem as well as potential tearing, Vruzend is looking at a copper coating.
Here it is stainless steel. Which will have higher resistance. But they designers have done extensive testing and are USA educated engineers. There should be no issues but many of us are taking the time to wring them out and check performance. Not me, but some of the best in the business are testing. We shall see....rather than armchair the builds I decided to experiment.

Finally, the packaging of a 36V 10S-3P as a 3x10 array would be a lot larger than I want with the overhead required for the end blocks. Emulating the Luna Mini, which is a 52V 14S-2P would use a 4x7 array, again, much bigger than the Mini. On the other hand, you could use a fan and blow air between the cells..
Many of the frame packs use a frame system the gain isn't that big. I have a glued pack and soon one of these that matches, and also a Mini. I'll take pictures and post a comparison.

Good for someone who has individual cells. It also seems relatively immune to wiring short circuits..


If I were serious about home-built batteries, I'd get the spot welder.
Agreed for someone who has a lot of packs. I have two, at one point 3 welders. My first was a China made POS that I sold with replacement parts when it dies on the first weld. The latest are Arduino based seen on Instructables and one from a design on Endless Sphere. That said I want a solution for a quick pack build should I need it and I think the rebuildable battery case has a large market among DIY guys.

 
I'm afraid that orders link is for a satellite company. I think this is more malarky than good practice.
Discussion is useless since they can't ship out of the EU, secondly, all the attention and reputation is built on their excellent job of repair and reworking batteries. After exhaustive research and review I'm convinced copper is NOT a good idea for my eBikes batteries.
 
I'm finding the 250w power of my Voltbike Elegant motor not enough power for my commuting. I'm exploring ways I can power up the motor without much service. I thought maybe I could replace the 36volt battery with a 48volt battery. Is that compatible with the 250w motor and will it result in any significant power increase? Thank you, I appreciate any thoughts you all may have
 
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