Did a tire swap, and the brakes flaked out.

[Jason Knight]

Hello, I realize this is an old post but I am having a similar problem and none of the typical solutions or videos have helped.

As others have said it SOUNDS like air in the lines, but if a simple bleed -- and I'm sure you looked up "tektro brake bleed" on Twitter -- isn't getting the job done, it's possible the calipers are screwed up. One of my zoom calipers is total junk -- the one that came with the bike -- because the bladder that pushes out the piston on one side is broken and leaks. Something I figured out once I had it on my workbench. It is also possible that something as simple as the hoses not being screwed in all the way or clamped down properly is at fault, or even a torn hose.

I would inspect EVERYTHING carefully.

Since then I cannot trust the shop to handle repairs after my last experience with them where it sat for 2 months, then I was charged for repairs that were not made and my bike came back worse than when I sent it in. The brakes pressure was very low (50%) and the front tire was nearly bald. ie. they were joy riding my bike for 2 months. So the solution of bring it back to the shop is not an option.

That's entirely typical of my experiences with local bike shops, and why whenever some clown says "Just take it to the LBS" my knife-hand whips up like a DI ready to back-hand some civvie piece of slime. Instantly triggers my inner "I didn't know they stacked S*** that high" reaction.

4. I ran an electric toothbrush over the lines to relieve bubbles. I never see any in the oil cup.

Never heard of that one. I dislike using the cup and use the syringe instead, because negative pressure can often extract bubbles (assuming things are sealed) and help compress the bladders making it easier to move the pistons in. Likewise you can hold a negative pressure to disconnect the bottom line with minimal dripping, then force new fluid through capturing the old stuff.

IF there's fluid in the system, and compressing the handles does not move the pistons, I would assume the calipers are trashed. It seems rare for the problem to be the handles, though that's a possibility too.

Again, using the syringe part of the bleed kit you could apply pressure direct to the lines. IF that's not moving the pistons, it's the caliper. If it is moving the pistons, it's the handle.

 

[Robspace1]

Not all bike shops do bad work. I use two that do great work at a reasonable price. Had no problems or complaints with either one. Pays to ask around.

 

[DeaconLyric]

Wow. Why should you have to pay for anything if it's still under warranty? That's not right. I would take it back to the dealer and tell them to repair/replace, or refund you're money. If you have a car, a rack or trailer hitch is the way to go. Depending on the car and weight capacity. I did the trailer option as it puts less weight on the rear of my car, which is a Honda. No sense wrecking my trani to haul two ebikes. We like going out of town. Another option is AAA. They give you emergency roadside assist for you're bike. You just need to get it to the nearest street and they will take it to the house or shop for you. Being in NYC there must be mobile bike shops that can come to you. Maybe Ariel will be ok with it. Thing is, the problem lies with the dealer not you. They need to back up that warranty. You should not spend anything to fix it. It's on them. Push em! If they refuse, tell em, "forget about it", see ya in court.

I have put in a request for troubleshooting repairs with Ariel. They are horrible with customer service and repairs. (See their BBB reports) They have no phone number. They only ship to one bike shop in the state and that's the shop I went to that caused the start of the problem.

Not trying to whine or make excuses I'm still troubleshooting. Last night I put the cup on the brake lever reservoir, added some oil, pulled the tamper and left it overnight. hoping any bubbles the vibration didn't get out would clear with time This morning the brakes are still soft.

 

[DeaconLyric]

Thank you everyone who has responded so far. I have tried your suggestion with regards to the brakes. I will wait on the trailer/hitch rack until I get a new vehicle in fall. My current one has a stupid hitch (ford explorers from 08 do no have a standard sizes it's like 1.5" instead of 2.5)

 

[DeaconLyric]

Not all bike shops do bad work. I use two that do great work at a reasonable price. Had no problems or complaints with either one. Pays to ask around.

you're absolutely right. At this point my only option is to try and ride it to a shop a mile or two away. I was try to avoid this unsafe decision but it's way too heavy to walk all that way (plus disability). Also Pride is a hell of a drug and I really wanted to be able to fix my own bike but it's looking like I have to swallow the jagged little pill and get to a shop.

 

[DeaconLyric]

As others have said it SOUNDS like air in the lines, but if a simple bleed -- and I'm sure you looked up "tektro brake bleed" on Twitter -- isn't getting the job done, it's possible the calipers are screwed up. One of my zoom calipers is total junk -- the one that came with the bike -- because the bladder that pushes out the piston on one side is broken and leaks. Something I figured out once I had it on my workbench. It is also possible that something as simple as the hoses not being screwed in all the way or clamped down properly is at fault, or even a torn hose.

I would inspect EVERYTHING carefully.

That's entirely typical of my experiences with local bike shops, and why whenever some clown says "Just take it to the LBS" my knife-hand whips up like a DI ready to back-hand some civvie piece of slime. Instantly triggers my inner "I didn't know they stacked S*** that high" reaction.

Never heard of that one. I dislike using the cup and use the syringe instead, because negative pressure can often extract bubbles (assuming things are sealed) and help compress the bladders making it easier to move the pistons in. Likewise you can hold a negative pressure to disconnect the bottom line with minimal dripping, then force new fluid through capturing the old stuff.

IF there's fluid in the system, and compressing the handles does not move the pistons, I would assume the calipers are trashed. It seems rare for the problem to be the handles, though that's a possibility too.

Again, using the syringe part of the bleed kit you could apply pressure direct to the lines. IF that's not moving the pistons, it's the caliper. If it is moving the pistons, it's the handle.

Yes it was recommended to take a disposable electric toothbrush and use it as a vibrator on the lines. It was perfect timing as I just bought a new one.

I prefer using the drip bottle at the levers and syringe at the bottom, however, the cup was recommended as the best option for spotting bubbles coming out the lines. I hate using it because of spillage.

 

[Robspace1]

Yes it was recommended to take a disposable electric toothbrush and use it as a vibrator on the lines. It was perfect timing as I just bought a new one.

I prefer using the drip bottle at the levers and syringe at the bottom, however, the cup was recommended as the best option for spotting bubbles coming out the lines. I hate using it because of spillage.

Yea, you should be able to get it a mile down the road ok. Just go slow. Did you go around the dealer and contact the bike maker? If the dealer won't honor that warranty, maybe the bike maker will. That's a lousy shop that refuses to back the up the warranty. I'd take it to small claims court. You are a victim of total fraud.

 

[DeaconLyric]

Yea, you should be able to get it a mile down the road ok. Just go slow. Did you go around the dealer and contact the bike maker? If the dealer won't honor that warranty, maybe the bike maker will. That's a lousy shop that refuses to back the up the warranty. I'd take it to small claims court. You are a victim of total fraud.

Yes I went around the dealer and went straight to Ariel. Also let them know about the behavior of the dealer.

 

[Robspace1]

Yes I went around the dealer and went straight to Ariel. Also let them know about the behavior of the dealer.

Good deal. Are they going to make it rightful you? No new ebike should have so many problems so soon. Mine lost the battery 6 months out, but they gave me a new one right away. I did replace the cheap tires that came with the bike. Hope you get it fixed and get to enjoy riding it this summer. You may want to go with puncture resistant lined tires. Getting a rear flat with a rear hub is not good. I bought Schwalbe tires, same with my gf. 3 years now and no flats!

 

[Jason Knight]

Not all bike shops do bad work. I use two that do great work at a reasonable price. Had no problems or complaints with either one. Pays to ask around.

Perhaps, but it sucks when you basically have to travel to another state to find one, since the three in a 40 mile radius in-state all inhale upon the proverbial equine of short stature.

I'm stuck either going to Vermont, Taxachusetts, or travelling to the Manchester/Concord area.

I hear people talk about having a half dozen in their town or city and can't help but think "DAFUQ YEW SAYZ?!?"

 

[Robspace1]

Perhaps, but it sucks when you basically have to travel to another state to find one, since the three in a 40 mile radius in-state all inhale upon the proverbial equine of short stature.

I'm stuck either going to Vermont, Taxachusetts, or travelling to the Manchester/Concord area.

I hear people talk about having a half dozen in their town or city and can't help but think "DAFUQ YEW SAYZ?!?"

The problem I found was that many ebike shops will only work on the brands they sell. That's changing now though as more people buy these. The LBS that used to not want anything to do with ebikes are now seeing too much business being lost and now will work on ebikes. They need to work on ALL bikes to survive. The anti ebike bs out there is slowly fading. Now seeing more ebike hating roadies cruising along with "hidden" tube batteries.lol