Allant+ 9.9S Carbon Fiber Fork, Head Tube, Headset, etc.

[GuruUno]

Last week I hit a pretty big pothole, bent my front rim and took a dump. Fortunately, only I had a minimal facial injury as the brunt of the spill was absorbed by my helmet, and then 1 end of my handlebars. Traveling about 5-7 MPH.
Got up, brushed off, verified all was good on the bike and continued with a bent rim. Slight, but bent nonetheless.
Ordered a new rim and will have this week.
Went for a 12 mile ride yesterday, yes with the slightly bent rim, and noticed a clunking over irregular terrain. No noises on smooth pavement.
Upon returning, cleaned up the bike and noticed the front fork was slightly loose, like if I stood in front of the bike with the front wheel between my legs and rocked the bike back and forth while holding the handlebars there was slight movement, clicking.
Saw that the space under the frame to where the fork meets frame about maybe 1/8".
I disassembled the cockpit stuff (Smartphone hub), removed the handlebars, took off the stem and wow, those spacers that hide and route the wires, what a challenge.
Anyway, saw there was a very small silver screw that held a doo-hickey that was snapped off at it's head.
Something I could not fix, put it back together and dropped it off at the LBS to repair.
I'm attaching 2 photos of the OEM photo for the 9.9S and the "real" photo, where the spacers are and 2 photos of the doo-hickey.
Sure seems like a lot of build up, spacers, etc., and was curious if others have any opinion or contribution as to the overall effect of so many spacers and/or any offerings as to any info what the doo-hickey is.
For the life of me, I cannot find any online references, service manual, diagram or anything from Trek as to how this unique setup is referenced.

 

[Alaskan]

The dohikey is what limits the front wheel swivel within useful steering range and keeps the fork and wheel from doing a 180.

 

[Nova Haibike]

The dohikey is what limits the front wheel swivel within useful steering range and keeps the fork and wheel from doing a 180.

...so the cabling inside doesn't get f'd up. The bike companies are doing their best to make sure that when you need to service your bike, that it will be so complicated that you need to take it to the shop and pay for an hour or more worth of work instead. While it could be argued that internally routed cables and lines is more protected from damage, but when you do need to change it (and it will be), it is a real pain in the behind.

 

[GuruUno]

Well, the bike has been at the LBS for 22 days. After repeated calls, insistence to find out why, what, etc., the FINALLY put it on the bike stand and removed the fork. Upon inspection, I'm told that that "screw" that is epoxied into the frame and stops the handlebars from moving past a specific point (of the traveled distance/circumference of the operational limits of left to right turning) is 'pulled' from the frame, potentially making the frame deficient. Quite frankly, I disagree, as I inspected it prior to taking it to the shop and saw that the "doo-hickey" that prohibits movement past a specific point when turning the steering via the handlebars only had the head ripped off of the screw. An "ez-out" to remove the remaining screw from the frame is to me all that needs to be done, but who am I to disagree with the LBS mechanic who has never in his life ever on the face of the earth inspected a fork in an Allant frame nor ever even seen this setup, as it is unique and new to the Allant.

In any event, awaiting the Trek headquarters call to the LBS to 'advise'.

I think the engineers or designers need to be consulted, as there are zero anything for documentation about the setup anywhere to reference.

Comments, advice?

 

[GuruUno]

My further research shows the part is the Trek Knock Block retaining screw head sheared off and any associated parts that are part of that assembly. (the 'stop chip' is still there and the head of the screw was in the recess of the stop chip)
If the head only is sheared off and the screw needs to be extracted, I'd assume that the threaded receiver for the screw in the head tube is fine, but the LBS feels that it is epoxied and is awaiting the Trek mothership to advise.

Anyone ever have that knock block shear off and?

The weird part is that the Knock Block and stop chip are installed in the inside of the head tube (the part where the fork tube goes through the frame) so it's actually concealed or hidden, completely opposite of a 'normal' bike, according to my research.

As in this video:

 

[GuruUno]

And part of the fork is collapsed

 

[GuruUno]

Fortunately, my Velosure e-bike insurance covers the damage.
Trek got back with a price for a new frame and a new fork, now awaiting the labor quote from the LBS to "rebuild", as in taking the components off of the original bike and put them on the new frame, etc.
Opportunity and options...I already have the SRAM AXS, should I consider the Onyx rear hub (any feedback from those who have done so?) as well as any word if Trek may pony up with all the complaints of the know issue?
Additionally, the opportunity for a possible replacement suspension fork for the Allant+ 9.9S is there, so knowing nothing and not relying 100% on the LBS recommendations, any thought if you were in my shoes as to which fork would be considered a great one and will it present any difficulty as a substitute?
Finally, being in this odd situation, this is possibly a one shot deal to do anything and or everything to make the bike the bike it should or could be while it is getting redone, so, what else should I consider or just leave well enough alone and wait for a 2021 Trek after I get this back?

 

[misteracng]

I think the size of the carbon frame head tube would make any other fork, whether it is suspension or rigid not really compatible, if it did fit, it would probably look odd. Onyx rear hub seems good, they might take some time on getting it. Industry Nine Hydra hub is also a good option, they have sets that fit the 9.9 frame.

 

[GuruUno]

I was of the belief that the "neck" or tube is size-able by cutting and therefore as long as itv is long enough, you can trim it as needed, no? re: fork)
Re: hub; looking a a picture of the hub (as in this photo), it fits "in" something, or is this only part of a hub replacement? Please educate me.:

 

[tegnamo]

it's just the freehub which pops on to the side of the actual hub shell, but it's the XD driver style for 11/12-speed SRAM stuff.

 

[GuruUno]

So, help me out here.
When others say they are getting an 'Onyx' hub "laced", I believe it to mean the entire component gets installed with spokes into a rim, etc.
This picture of a 'Hydra' hub goes into an existing hub that is on the Allant+ 9.9s? So those are the "guts" that go into the existing Trek/OEM Allant+ 9.9S already existing wheel/hub 'receiver'?
Or what other parameters are part of a hub replacement vs upgrade?
Excuse my ignorance.
Then if an existing Shimano item is giving end users headaches, and the majority of owners are opting for an Onyx hub, what are the determining facto to choose an Onyx vs a Hydra vs ?

 

[misteracng]

the Onyx hub is a whole new complete hub unit. It will have the hub with the correct axle and spacing, along with the number of spoke holes you want and the type of freehub you want. In your case with sram eagle 12 speed, you need an XD driver freehub. Shimnano 12 speed needs microspline freehub. The picture above is the freehub body only and the ratchet seen on the backside. This hydra one would only work on the industry nine hydra i believe. The freehub as you have pictured are specific to each manufacturer because the ratchet system will be different. You might also just get a front hub as well to make it match although not required, I have not heard any issues with the front hub. You can either buy the hubs and have them laced into your exiting wheels or perhaps buy new wheels and spokes. This may be a better option, then if trek does a recall or something you could hand in the old wheel and let them replace or do whatever. Hope this is correct, anyone please correct my mistakes.