2016 RadRover


New Member
I was surfing the RPB website the other day and noticed some great new features on the latest version of the RadRover. Here are the ones that I noticed:

-new frame with internally routed wires on the top tube and attachment points for a back rack
-new fork
-quick release front wheel
-smaller controller box
-metal chain ring guard
-smaller headlight
-lift handle on seat
-slightly more swept back handlebars
-derailleur guard
-quick disconnects for motor and handlebar components
-add to the list if I missed any...

The only change that I don't like are all those wires in the front. They need some wrapping to clean it up a bit like the older model.
Apparently I'm missing what you're seeing, because the pictures on their web sit look the same to me as they always have. I received my RR about a month ago and it has an upgraded kickstand, PAS-0 setting, and fender mounting hard points for the rear fender. But otherwise it looks like the pictures on the website...

Mark -
You have to click on the "Buy" link to see the new pictures. Most of the website still has old pictures. I pickup up mine about a month ago as well. No fender mount points.

(Link Removed - No Longer Exists)
Thanks for the link, you're right it looks like there are a lot of upgrades. Isn't it cool thar RPB keeps upgrading their bikes, yet keeps the price the same? Here are some pics of the rear fender mounting points that are on my bike...


I bought a fender set from Big O Mfg. and they work really well...

Mark -
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You're right Mark. Mine has the fender attach points as well but the new bike also has separate mounting point for a rear rack.
Now I have one of each. My white RR was picked up in early December and I picked up a new 2016 black model last weekend! Here are some more observations and differences from the older model:

-Derailleur is now Shimano Acera
-High rise handlebars aprox. 1 inch higher
-LCD mount had to be bent awkwardly to accommodate new bars, not so nice but it works
-Rims have a slightly different profile
-Pedals are slightly different shape
-Mounting holes up near head tube (perhaps Court could mount a water bottle cage:))
-Seems to have different gear ratios (I haven't tried to figure out the specs, it just feels different)
-Much different power delivery in PAS1. It seems softer and power limited to avoid over stressing the motor and controller on steep hills.
-Battery meter shows a drop much sooner. On an identical 55km ride the battery showed 1-2 bars less power towards the end.
-Small white connector below controller looks like it's for programming (having access to that would be awesome!)
-Always starts up in PAS1. The older model remembers the last selected PAS level.
-Walk mode only works in PAS1-5. The older model will work in PAS0-5.
-Nicer stickers:)

I think that's about it...
That's an interesting observation about the display port. Is the display still a SW-LCD or maybe the LCD3? Are you saying that the new one won't allow PAS0? That would be disappointing because I like that option. Or are you just saying it defaults to PAS1 when you turn it on, but you can still set it to 0? I would appreciate a more subtile PAS1, the one on my bike seems a little too aggressive. However, it's a little disconcerting that the power drains more quickly. Or maybe it is just being displayed more accurately. Thanks for the update...

Mark -
The new bike still has PAS0. It just always starts up in PAS1. Just an oddball thing that I've observed. The display is the same SW-LCD. There is a small white connector with a cover on it down below the controller near the bottom bracket. I do like the new programming for PAS1. On the older model, I had to work hard on steep climbs to keep the watt meter down close to 500. On the new bike, it seems to take less effort and the watt meter shows 300-400 on the same hills but at a slightly slower speed. It also starts off more smoothly from a standstill. The downside is that the difference between PAS1 and 2 seems massive. I'd love to be able to customize the settings. I'm hoping that the battery level difference is just a result of the different controller and programming. Next time I do that same 55km ride maybe I'll swap batteries and see what happens.
Interesting stuff. I noticed on the RPB website, if you click on "Buy Now" tab, and select the LCD Display, you will find the following note: "PLEASE NOTE: The LCD for the RadRover and the RadWagon are slightly different, so make sure to select the option that fits your Rad Power Bike model.". So, if you click on the "Select Model" drop down menu, it will give you the choice of two different displays: "2015 RadRover", or "RadWagon or 2016 RadRover". This suggests that the new RR has the same display as the old RW. So now I'm wondering if the RW also has that port you're talking about on the display. I also seem to remember reading here somewhere that the display on the RW has a USB port on the left side, for powering mobile devices. Does your new RR have a USB port on the left side of the display?

Inquiring minds need to know. :)

Mark -
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Nice catch! There is a usb port on the display. It's tucked nicely under the left side with a black rubber cap so I hadn't even noticed it there.
I just noticed that you were talking about a small white connector on the controller, not on the display (as I assumed). What does that connector look like, how many pins does it have, is it round or rectangular? I understand it may be in a place where you can't see it easily. Very interesting... :)

Mark -
Thanks for the info. Now I'm wondering if the 2016 RR has the same controller as well as the same display as the 2015 RW. Anyone with a RW, and does it have a rectangular white four pin connector below the controller?

Mark -
On the battery life issue that I described above; I tried the same 55km ride after swapping battery packs between the bikes. What I found was, initially the older pack didn't show a drop in power as quickly but at the end of the ride the displayed number of bars was basically the same. In other words, I think the main difference is the way the controller and display represent the power remaining in the pack is a bit different from the older model. At first I was worried that the newer battery pack was much weaker than the older one. Interestingly, in all cases when I checked the LEDs on the packs themselves, all four LEDs lite up at the end of each ride.
hellfish and anyone else, did you guys come up with a solution for the massive jump on pas 2?

i wrote radrover last nite, so hopefully they will have an answer
will post back when i hear from them

if not i am wondering about changing out the display for a CA where you can set everything how you want it
has anyone done that? or does anyone know if it is possible?