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Well, if you can't open one of the cases (remote switch or main X unit) and look inside, I'd cautiously cut and peel back the outer cable insulation close to the remote switch (or whichever side will have a longer run of cable outside the handlebars, to locate the connector), count the interior...

Running the cable from the controller to the remote through the handlebars seems like drilling too many unnecessary holes. I'd leave that cable outside. Also, why the Interface X (unless you have it already, and/or need ANT+ in addition to Bluetooth)? It's not all that more compact than Display...

I liked the BikeOn, but I kept having issues with it on longer (multi-hour) tours, despite the inventor's best efforts. He was going to make an updated version that would hopefully fix the issues I ran into, but the original device might actually be just fine for your needs. (The chain guard...

The Wahoo cell phone app integrates well with Bluetooth sensors and data, including pedal power, from my e-bike (Yamaha Wabash RT). It's very convenient to use a mobile phone (in a bike mount) as bike computer, since it combines two devices into one. For longer rides, I run a USB charging cable...

Ditto - no problem with my Yamaha (except for the - now resolved - creaking).

I assume if the play is mostly axial that nothing much will move or make noises when pedaling. My chainring probably still tilts slightly under heavy pedaling, but since the creaking is gone, I don't notice it (did 60 miles yesterday, the creaking did not come back).

Ok, that's different from mine, with no detectable axial play (obviously there must be a very tiny amount, just none I can detect by hand) and clearly detectable crosswise play. This was super helpful, Base. Thanks for taking the time to check. I'll keep watching the situation on my bike, maybe...

Base, thanks a lot for checking. Just to be clear, by 'sideways' you mean you can move the chainring circumference back and forth in the axial direction, but outwards on one side of the chainring and towards the frame on the other side, when applying force at the teeth (also in the axial...

What was the outcome of this? I notice something similar, at similar mileage, with my PW-ST: the chainring moves (tilts) about 0.3 mm back and forth when one applies axial force at the teeth on opposite sides (for example by pushing and pulling at 10 and 4 o'clock). I was able to get rid of an...

Update: I got rid of the creaking by letting a mix of WD40 and Ballistol soak into the right side bottom bracket area (both inside and outside of the splined hollow drive shaft, see Base's pictures above). The play is of course still there. Is some amount of play maybe normal? I'd say I see...

Thanks again! I have a spider, and the chainring bolts to the spider are tight. I can see and feel the chainring and spider move when I pull on it sideways. (I had checked the handlebar and fork and saddle (including post) before.) I watched a PW motor disassembly video. From the parts diagram...

Thanks, Base! Are the two locknut types (steel vs aluminum) interchangeable? I hope the wobble is not a problem with the drive shaft or its bearings, and just due to the chainring seating. Is the chainring itself threaded on, or does it sit on a square or spline? I do not have the service manual.

My Wabash-RT started creaking on heavier pedal strokes a few weeks ago. It has 1700 miles on it. I traced the creaking back to play in the chainring: when I push & pull the chainring at 10 and 4 o'clock, I can feel some movement. Is this a known issue? Is it sufficient to reseat the chainring...

The Jepster app is no longer working for me after an update to the latest version (my phone is running android 10, without any hope to update to a newer android version). The Wahoo app works, and allows automatic emailing of the .fit file, which makes importing to Garmin connect a bit easier...

Using the built-in power meter of the Yamaha Wabash RT swap Display A for Display C (no additional cable needed, display C cable plugs into the existing cable behind the cover on the right side of the down tube). set the Display C Bluetooth profile to 'CPP'. connect to the bike power sensor via...

Thanks, Base. The 'power' setting is supposedly the default for the USB port, according to the manual. I got charging actually working today, using an old USB A to USB mini cable, and a separate USB A to USB C adapter. Unfortunately the adapter does not fit my phone very well. I ordered another...

Does anybody know whether maybe there is a fuse inside the Display C for the micro USB port? I tried all combinations of cables and adapters, and as far as I can tell my phone charges just fine with all of them, except when connected to the Yamaha Display C.

Update: Bluetooth pedal power transmission (via 'CPP' profile), display and logging work with the Display C plugged into the Wabash RT, in place of the standard Display A. Getting the data from the Jepster app into Garmin Connect is a bit tedious, but does work (export/save .fit file on phone...

Has anybody been successful getting power out of the Display C USB micro port? While I had no problem disconnecting the original Display A from my Wabash RT, and connecting the Display C in its place, I have had no success so far powering my phone via a micro USB to USB C adapter cable. The...

The local display on my 2nd battery did not react to short to few seconds long button presses out of the box, but after installing it in the bike and connecting the charger three bars of charge showed up on the bike's display (after turning it on, obviously). It charged to 100% (ten bars) in a...