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Which end falls out? Mine came with a large rubber band to secure it to the bottle cage.

It might have been just water on the pads that caused this. It's strange that they didn't come back after two rides though if that were the case. I had to clean and sand the pads and rotor before they started to work again. I didn't have any brake cleaner handy, so I used polymer safe gun...

Yes. I used to race cars years ago, so I used the same method I used to bed-in new car brake pads and burnish rotors. It seemed to work. I'm contemplating replacing the rotor when I finally replace the pads though.

I cleaned and sanded the rotors and pads again. I went out for a ride and still had not much friction until about a mile when it started to come back. After two miles it was much better and after my 30-mile ride, it seemed like it was almost at 100%. I got the new pads, but now I'll probably...

The only problem with covering the rotor and caliper is that to clean the chain, you must turn the crank in the direction which spins the wheel, so they must be free of obstructions. I heard it's a bad idea to force the crank to go in reverse on these bikes.

The other day, I washed the bike since it gets very dusty. I primarily ride on crushed limestone trails which get dry and dusty this time of year. I also cleaned and lubed the chain. On my next ride, I had almost no friction in the rear brake and it was almost useless, even while squeezing...

I'll have to try that. The docs for the bike say that it will lose power below a certain level though. Isn't that kind of distracting during a ride?

Did a 30 mile ride with the new range extender while I had it in RE Discharge First mode. Got about 20 miles out of it and I used Turbo mode a bit more, which I almost never do. It was fun! That bike can go fast! Shortly after when the RE battery got down to 1 bar, I switched back to dual...

Just got an RE and wanted to set the bike to use it first. I assume it's the option that says "Discharge Range Extender ..." I'm guessing the whole text didn't fit on the screen for some reason.

Found this on Specialized Web site. Specs on the rear hub. Rear Hub: Specialized alloy rear hub disc, Center Lock™, sealed cartridge bearings, 12x148mm, 28h I'm assuming, by "sealed cartridge bearings", they mean this: If so, that's great since those things are tough and pretty easy to...

Was wondering the same thing after taking a peek at the wheel. I'd have to take the wheel off the bike to look closer. Maybe it uses spindle bearings, which might be simpler to deal with.

I asked about dropping the wheel and they won't do it that way. They want the whole bike. I think I'm just going to get a set of wheel bearing cone wrenches and do it myself. The bearings are fine, it's just the cone that's loose and it needs to be snugged up. With as much as I ride, I...

I guess I'll need to bring it to the bike shop. They're backed up for weeks and you can't make an appointment. You just have to drop your bike off and then they will work on it when they can. It sucks because we're having some nice weather and I want to ride.

Just picked up a Turbo Vado SL 4.0 (2023) in February and have been enjoying it ever since. So far, I put on about 550 miles and recently noticed that the rear wheel hub now has a lot of play in it. It's enough where if you jiggle the wheel side-to-side, you can make the brake disc hit the brake...